[a dense loner]

2 wks in china, 2 wks in North America, and one in Europe doesn't sound as impressive as traveling the whole world 

[fatneck]

Leah didn't make the semis after all Jan flashed everything 

[Pako]

Fatneck I think you might be watching Chongqing.

[fatneck]

You are indeed correct Pako.  Damn these fat fingers...

[galpinos]

2 wks in china, 2 wks in North America, and one in Europe doesn't sound as impressive as traveling the whole world 

Sounds better then sitting at a desk in an office block in Cheadle Heath though....

[a dense loner]

Ain't that the truth, also beats woodseats where it either rains or is boiling!

Who won fatneck? McColl was looking strong, and tiny 

[Doug]

Pako - I look at fb on mobile, so there is no left side for me. Perhaps that's why I can't see them.

With regards to filming, I had a look at the IFSC Camera Crew Code of Conduct for accredited media and it states:

• ...Web TVs will be allowed to film interviews, press conferences, venues, and to access the mixed zone right after the Award Ceremony. No footage from the competition shall be allowed.
• If TVs and Web TVs want to have footage from the competition, they will negotiate license fees with the IFSC at least 7 days prior to the event.
• If TVs and Web TVs film and/or live broadcast IFSC events without the prior authorization, the IFSC will require license fees and/or claim for the monetization of the content

So perhaps it's simple economics and OnBouldering isn't filming semi's and finals due to cost? I completely understand the IFSC protecting it's product and wanting to make money out of it, but they risk losing an audience or perhaps not gaining an audience from a nicely put together highlights package. The ECB got lots of money after 2005 Ashes by selling the TV rights to Sky but lost exposure.

Eddie Fowke has posted on fb that "there will be no live stream of semi's and finals tomorrow due to ongoing connectivity issues".

[SA Chris]

Provided they don't take the piss with what they are asking, it shouldn't be an issue? Or if they start setting up "exclusive rights" deals.

[Pako]

Here is the post from the OnBouldering fb page http://i.imgur.com/OsWgdsH.png

[Pako]

Unless the results on the IFSC page haven't properly updated, it looks like the victors at Haiyang were Jongwon Chon for the men, definitely a rising star, and none other than Petra Klinger for the women, who beat Akiyo by one attempt. Her previous best result was 6th in 2011, so definitely interesting. Men's finals must have been nails, only Jongwon and Rustam got 2 tops, even Ondra and Hojer only got 1 top. Setting seems to have been a bit suspect... Good on Rustam for returning to form though, and for Jongwon for improving so much. Miho Nonaka also seems to be doing very well, she is strong as too, I remember in Laval she was just one arming slopers left and right.

[Pako]

Apparently Minori Nakano, who came 6th in finals, was also the only one to get more than 2 bonuses (3), while still not managing to top anything. bloody fascinating or am I too tired

[jwi]

Felt sorry for Nakano who actually did a problem but fckd-up the match something stupid. He also fell on the very last move of one and did well on the rest. The best effort for last place in the final I ever saw. A hair's breadth from  the podium.

Nice looking problems, exciting final. Pity about the conditions, but what can you do, climbing is an outdoor sport.

[Pako]

Problems were quite good, they did a good job at highlighting the various strengths and weaknesses of the climbers, with Rustam being the only one to top M3 being a nice example of that.

[Muenchener]

Hugely enjoyed that: Leah did a great job on the commentary, Melissa's bivouac epic on F3 etc.

[fried]

Me too! Problems looked good, and I'd prefer them to be on the difficult side. Melissa's try on problrm 3 was one of the highlights for me.

Shows how much having someone commentating who knows the sport improves watchability.

[TheTwig]

I enjoyed that final so much!

Total world of difference to the previous comp. Great commentary, it definitely helps having experienced people who know what they are talking about. The problems were really well set and separated the crowd nicely. Very surprised by how poorly Hojer and Ondra did, they aren't having a great run of form recently it seems?. Very nicely climbed by Shauna, any other comp she would have had gold, the women were crushing!

[Muenchener]

Great commentary, it definitely helps having experienced people who know what they are talking about.

 

The guy who usually does the MCing and German language live commentary in Munich runs a bouldering wall and has been Bavarian state champion a couple of times, and it does make a difference.

[Durbs]

Phew, a return to form! Much better round; good commentary, with useful observations and some banter too, good problems, good camera work.
Shame it's come so late in the season, but nice to know when things to work, it's still a great sport to watch.

Jan and Adam having a bit of a shocker, Petra Klinger fulfilling dark horse duties - and came down to last problem for ladies.
Really interesting to see the men in particular get stuck on completely different parts of different problems. Rustrum had a 'mare on M2, Alban M3, Jan M4.
Would've been good to see M4 get done to see how it was set.

[peewee]

Felt sorry for Nakano who actually did a problem but fckd-up the match something stupid.

I found that a bit odd, I've seen matches in the past exactly the same as that where the hold is tapped and the ascent been given.

[mr__j5]

It isn't supposed to be though.

You are supposed to hold the hold with 2 hands until the judge holds up the "OK" sign. Anybody that doesn't do this is basically an amateur.

[iain]

Really enjoyable, Leah made a great commentator.

Did anyone else notice Rustam and Petra walking out together at one point and how much bigger Petra was  Brilliant performance.

[Durbs]

Nakano just made an error - given he's been in many qualis, semis and some finals - he knows the rules. Harsh, but possibly fair?

I was trying to work out, when Miho was jamming on F4 whether that counted as the bonus? The top of her hand was on the bonus hold, the bottom not... Irrelevant as she got past it, but was wondering.

More interesting was Akiyo using a volume on a different problem. The fact she was in such a comfortable position she could check mid-move whether it was in was just ridiculous.

It's a shame we have to rely on Brits/Americans not making a Semi or a Final to get good commentary - must be some ex-competitors who would be happy to commentate? Enjoyed Leah's commentary, but would have preferred to have her in the final. What's Killian doing?

[Schnell]

Watching this yesterday and thought it was great, much helped by the commentary. Who was the male commentator, Josh ?

I was surprised to see Ondra struggling, I  thought that pop to the crimp on 3 would have been right up his street. It must have been a truly miserable hold. He deserved at least the bonus on 4 as well, he was making much better progress than anyone else.

[jwi]

Ondra: human after all...? Nah... he'll soon find some 8C to flash

Josh was good as a commentator, but it was slightly irritating that he had no idea how the other comps played out this year.

[Doug]

Pako – Thanks for that picture and clarifying the whole IFSC licensing and no highlights situation. If I could wad you, I would.

Another good WC this weekend, some fantastic battling on display, and it sets up Munich nicely with the men’s overall title being so open. I would not have predicted Jongwon Chon to be leading the rankings by this point. He looked diamond crushingly strong but I don’t know if he’s also a lot better at coping with heat and humidity.

Akiyo bags a well-deserved fourth overall title, but can Shauna finish above Miho and grab second or will a prolonged purple patch pinch places for Petra?