[abarro81]

If she is going because her parents are rich but Pooch can't afford it, then that's a real shame but is a reflection on what you can do if you're rich!

Indeed. I get the impression that youth comps (at least in countries like ours with low comp funding) have long been as much about who can afford to go as who's the top of the tree in terms of ability.

[petejh]

If she is going because her parents are rich but Pooch can't afford it, then that's a real shame but is a reflection on what you can do if you're rich!

Indeed. I get the impression that youth comps (at least in countries like ours with low comp funding) have long been as much about who can afford to go as who's the top of the tree in terms of ability.

   Something that will never fail to offend my naive meritocratic heart.

[abarro81]

Bear in mind I've never been involved in the comp scene, so maybe it's not as bad as I suspect it is... but I've spoken to at least 1 parent of a strong youth who isn't sending their kid to many of the comps because it costs too much to be justified. The last world youth champs were in the middle of nowhere (new caledonia??) so basically only well funded kids (whether funded by national team or parents) went to it.

[Durbs]

 As I mentioned, my point was pure speculation. Pooch might have mega wealthy folks but she wants to stride out on her own, SBC might have errrr built a racquetball court from twigs and leaves...

Having said that, SBC didn't look too shabby at the ABS and held her own at the DWS comp against Michaela so maybe she'll surprise us and make some semis.

[Muenchener]

SBC climbs what, about 7C or so? One of the locals here who boulders around that level made the women's semis at the Munich world cup round a couple or years ago, so it's not unthinkable.

The Pooch situation is obviously a disgrace for anybody involved in organising/financing the US competition scene though.

[Pako]

From what I read her '7c' was a chipped v5. The next hardest thing she climbed was a v7

[Oldmanmatt]

As Durbs said, having watched her climb, she's no slouch.


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[petejh]

She shouldn't be a slouch, being a professional rock climber.

[Stu Littlefair]

Having said that, SBC didn't look too shabby at the ABS and held her own at the DWS comp against Michaela so maybe she'll surprise us and make some semis.

It shouldn't really be a surprise if she qualifies for a semi or two. She was only a few places off in Toronto last year.

[abarro81]

It shouldn't really be a surprise if she qualifies for a semi or two.

Hope that was deliberate

[Nibile]

To be honest, I really struggle to see her as a professional climber, rather than a professional model.

[remus]

To be honest, I really struggle to see her as a professional climber, rather than a professional model.

I think a large part of being a professional climber these days is looking good in front of a camera. People sponsor you so they can sell more products after all, and Five Tens latest kicks don't look so good on Quasimodo.

[Nibile]

You are absolutely right, but it would be nice - and more serious - if she backed up her professional climber's image with some professional climbs.

[Lund]

From her twitter feed (https://twitter.com/sierrablaircoyl):



There's not much chalk on 4, and the rungs look quite large (and not wood, which I find unusual, but hey).  Perhaps she washes them?  Perhaps she just does back three like Mina?

Perhaps she just goes straight to 9, like ze germans!   

[Durbs]

Vaguely related - out of curiosity, i tried to find which companies sponsor Pooch. I failed... except possibly Scarpa, and I vaguely recollect her being sponsored by a speaker company...

So you could argue she needs to up her game - I doubt sponsors don't view her as marketable, perhaps she doesn't want to / can't play the game...

[r-man]

Try harder! A quick search reveals

Five Ten
Prana
Revolution

http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx%3FUserId%3D16483

And over-caffeinated sugary drink company

http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/uk/en/athletes/1331641917874/ifsc-alex-puccio

So not bad. Especially as she hasn't blogged since 2011 and doesn't habitually release videos of her recent ascents http://alex-puccio.blogspot.co.uk/

[Lund]

She's pretty active on instagram and twitter.

https://twitter.com/alex_puccio

[Stubbs]

her instagrammming would seem to suggest Scarpa, Petzl and Fugoo (who make speakers).

https://instagram.com/p/1Yx6tpGVxE/

[fatneck]

Interesting article and comments here...

http://cruxcrush.com/2015/04/17/alex-puccios-controversial-crowdfunding/#more-10759

[r-man]

her instagrammming would seem to suggest Scarpa, Petzl and Fugoo (who make speakers).

https://instagram.com/p/1Yx6tpGVxE/

Yeah, guess the ones listed on 8a.nu have probably changed - she seems to have signed with scarpa in 2014. http://blog.scarpa.com/world-cup-boulderer-alex-puccio-joins-scarpa-as-athlete-ambassador/

[Jaspersharpe]

Interesting article and comments here...

http://cruxcrush.com/2015/04/17/alex-puccios-controversial-crowdfunding/#more-10759

Interesting and whatever people think about it it's working as she's raised just under $9k.

[GraemeA]

Perhaps if the events were in Europe where..

...most of the top competitors are based!

I don't understand how Grindlewald gets cancelled because last year lost money TWO WEEKS before the event?? surely this has been known for months and months?!

Grindelwald was cancelled on 4th Feb, federations were informed directly by the IFSC on or around this date and it was removed from the Calendar

[GraemeA]

If Rustam could make a comeback it would be great. I think the last time a boulder world cup was held in Moscow was 2010. It was run pretty well though, nice routesetting. At least the qualis didn't get rained on like in Innsbruck, making lots of already climbed qualifiers useless... The incompetence of the IFSC really is astounding sometimes.

Rustam won the last WC of 2014 so what's this about a comeback.

Last WC in Moscow some of the wall fell down when Percy was setting.

Maybe the incompetence calling could be directed at the organisers as they are the ones that gambled on no rain

[GraemeA]

Can't work out the IFSC website, but possibly Innsbruck is now the first round on 15-16th May?

It's the European Championships, but I can't work out if it also counts as a World Cup event...
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1606

The Euro Champs in Innsbruck does not count for the WC.

Bizarrely the Lead and Speed Euro Champs is somehow being combined with a World Cup (Chamonix) but I am not sure how it will work

[GraemeA]

Bear in mind I've never been involved in the comp scene, so maybe it's not as bad as I suspect it is... but I've spoken to at least 1 parent of a strong youth who isn't sending their kid to many of the comps because it costs too much to be justified. The last world youth champs were in the middle of nowhere (new caledonia??) so basically only well funded kids (whether funded by national team or parents) went to it.

I think that you will find that this is how it works in most sports. Travelling to events costs money, normally at the parents expense. My nephew wouldn't be able to play cricket for N Wales if his dad couldn't afford the petrol to get him there.