UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club week 269: 5th - 12th April 2015 (Read 10674 times)

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1809
  • Karma: +147/-6
I have had a fair few pulley injuries in the past and agree. Never been an advocate of resting things, they just seem to get worse.

Might avoid the school though, will be in the works tonight.

the_dom

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • The Blog
Managed to climb a bit yesterday at Eden wall in Carlisle whilst with 23 kids on rugby tour ... so i know i can still at least do easy stuff. Confident it will get better in a few weeks and i can get back on the plan.

My GP is a climber, and when I went to him with a pulley injury he said mileage on easy climbing, heavily taped, would be better for it than complete rest. Seemed to work too.
I have had a fair few pulley injuries in the past and agree. Never been an advocate of resting things, they just seem to get worse.

Might avoid the school though, will be in the works tonight.

Agree with both - even easy fingerboarding can help (as long as there's no pain and you can be honest with yourself about that)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
I thought EGU always used to be in May?  I haven't been for a few years but it was always a good laugh with all the beer and eating!  I went to a horrible bouldering wall there that was really hot and had no windows or ventilation which also meant that chalk was banned.  Every hold like a bar of soap!

April last couple of yearrs.. yes I've been to that wall too. Horrible. Google the boulder bar - its depot/works level...

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8812
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
9 hours of dancing/shuffling 

that's some Barrows style training, right?

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5029
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Bike 2 hrs 20 mins 39 miles. Heart rate monitor showed 219 beats per minute, which suggests I am 1 year old :2thumbsup:.
Tue. Moving furniture and carpets.
Wed. Bike one hour intervals.
Thu. Putting wardrobes back together.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Rose berry topping. Not ideal for the height adverse boulderer. Things didn't always fit the guide so just climbed what was in front of us. Cold snowed at times.
Sun. Board easy mirror session. Hole in my finger almost healed.

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
M- Boulder - good session up to v9.  FB max hangs and 1arm training at home after. 3x5 at -8kgs each arm. 
T- Roped session - 5 good sets, best were 3x7c no rest, and nearly 2 x 7c+/8a no rest. 
W-Rest
Th-Campus - Matched PB
F- Roped session - 4 good sets, best were 5x7b+ no rest, 4x7c no rest, and 3 x 7c+/8a no rest.
S-
S-Planned to go outside, but worked on family issues instead.  started FB session, but quit as no head for it. 

Good week overall.  Feeling fit and strong, but not light.  need to drop weight. 
Rocked by personal shit, which powered the Th and F sessions.  Anger can motivate pretty well sometimes. 

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
Late to the party this week...
Hope the personal shit isn't too shit and gets sorted toot sweet Sass.

STG: bolt and do Gotham extension
MTG: 8c and trad projects when bird ban ends
LTG: 9a if Barrows can...
BHAG: Bruderliebe

M BM session, pretty good.
T Out at training traverse wall, further refine and difficultyise (yes, that is a word) the eliminate project traverse. Do all but one move. Climb it in three sections (bar the can't do move).
W BM session
T Out climbing with the wife for "date night". Really nice evening. Wifey hasn't climbed for over a year and yet still led a route (S), seconded a VS and then seconded the f.a. of an E3. Training value of the session was probably minimal but great evening out.
F Back to training traverse project, do the can't do move. Then do the traverse in three sections, linking it all will be monstrous...
S working, 16 hour day WTF...
S working again WTdoubleF...

Good week but exhausted at the end after a heavy weekend of work.

sdm

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 624
  • Karma: +25/-1
A bit of catchup as I had no internet no last week.

2015 Goals:
Bouldering Pyramid:
7B: 0/1
7A+: 0/3
7A: 3/9
6C/6C+: 4/27 - 0/13 slabs/aretes
Sport: Do more sport, get in to redpointing properly

Week 268:
M: Woody Session, core workout and dips on rings.
T: Routes session. Half hour ARC training on the autobelay while waiting for partner to turn up. Boredom levels meant I probably increased the intensity a bit too high at times - got pumped out of my mind on laps of the 6c+/7a, didn't expect to complete one lap of it, never mind 4. Injured my toe while belaying  :-[. With adrenaline flowing, I didn't think it was as bad as it was and jumped on the red 7b+. Got halfway up feeling good for the flash, then reached a move where you have to really toe in with the left foot. Ow. Session over.
W: No sleep, toe is swollen and all sorts of bad colours. NNFN. Still, with a long climbing trip coming up, the timing isn't too bad. Ends my hopes of sneaking away for a cheeky morning of sport climbing though.
Th - Su: Non-climbing trip. Eating and drinking too much and lots of walking (hobbling) around. Small amounts of stretching and elbow rehab in the mornings.

Week 269:
M - Tu: Non-climbing trip. Eating and drinking too much and lots of walking (hobbling) around. Small amounts of stretching and elbow rehab in the mornings.
W: Bouldering with the comfortable shoes on, just about able to keep them on long enough to do a problem. Not able to weight small chips yet though.
Th: Repeaters, yoga and elbow rehab.
F: Bouldering, Good session, mostly projecting the V6+ set. Short board session at the end, my benchmark problems are starting to feel a bit easier. Toe is now down to minor discomfort when wearing normal shoes so it can't have been as bad as I first feared.
Sa: Churnet. Wanted to check out some new areas now I have the new guide but after a bit of overnight rain, we stuck to where we knew the rock would be completely dry. Repeated a few problems up to 7A, then working a bunch of new problems ~7A/7A+. Wright's Unconquerable feels so close yet so far. Simple Simon felt hard, I wasn't close to the match on the second move. The Undercut feels desperate but I have since seen some sneaky beta that I'll have to try next time. The Old Sloper Problem might go next time. Rocket Ride still feels hard but I touched the last hold a couple of times so it isn't far off. Still can't do High Speed Imp Act at the end of the day when I'm tired, must get on it earlier next time.
Su: Wintour's Leap. Easy trad multi-pitching. Still getting used to evaluating gear placements and learning to be more efficient setting up belays etc. Perfect day for it with some great views.
Ban-y-Gor. Finished off the day with some 'easy' sport climbs. Dogged a 6b+ which was 10m long with no difficult moves. Not sure whether to put it down to fatigue, poor route reading or struggling to get out of the easy trad mindset. Will have to go back there for a full day of sport to see if I fare any better.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal