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Training Top Tips (Read 27729 times)

mrjonathanr

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#50 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 06:35:19 pm
It wasn't so much doing La Beresina- it's 7C- but immediately doing it again as he felt he was a bit scrappy the first time.  :slap: Onsight (IIRC) 2nd ascent of Moonstomp a week after Pollitt was impressive I thought.

I've climbed with some great talents (eg Lynn hill, Anthoine leMenestrel) and Joe's always stood out as technically brilliant.

Simon Nadin doesn't get the credit he deserves either. Onsighting 8a+ for fun in the early 90s, 1st winner of the world cup, all those horrors on Western Grit...

Sasquatch

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#51 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 07:01:35 pm
Sorry about the venting.  Bad day and irritated.

I like the idea of a top tips thread, but it's guaranteed to get cluttered with stuff that one person likes and anther thinks is duff.  That's the way of people and the interwebs.   

There have been quite a few threads talking about these things - advanced technique questions, training methods, etc.  and I think they all fail somewhat as topics because they're too vague. 

For example this could perhaps have been named "Top Climbing Strength Training Exercises". as it is, "Top Training Tips" is really vague and generic and as such I think the #1 thing I would push people towards as a top tip is that QUALITY matters.

If you are training strength, then you need to rest a ton so you get the level of intensity you need.  This was discussed on a thread here a while back and someone (i forget who) went and did a boulder session resting alot between attempts and really working their max intensity and expressed surprise that they were able to perform much better than they expected. 

If you're training strength endurance (either Aeropow or Ancap) then understanding the appropriate level of intensity and rest to promote the desired improvement is key. 

If you're resting, then REST.  That means good sleep, good nutrition, low stress. 


Sasquatch

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#52 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 07:02:27 pm
And on a different note.  I love the tangents into aspects of climbing history.  I learn so much good stuff on here. 

lagerstarfish

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#53 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 07:37:37 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

he's not a goddamn hero; he's a very naughty boy

T_B

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#54 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 08:03:55 pm
Ok rite so are you the Dave Thomas who soloed Caveman and is on the front of the Nick White 1994 South Devon and Dartmoor guide?

If you are then you're a goddamn hero.

Never mind that he soloed Lord!  :o



Never mind Wales you absurdly parochial sweetcorn enthusiast. Caveman slightly bigger deal than a single pitch at the Stanage of North Wales.

Single pitch is 50 metres though.  :ras:

You mean you can TR it with a 50m rope (...which you can apparently...according to the 'Crainefly').

Falling Down

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#55 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 08:12:07 pm
What a great thread and karma/puntering  ;D

lagerstarfish

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#56 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 09:58:27 pm
my two favorite climbing experiences of 2014 were

1) watching Dolly crush Jihad after lots of effort

2) listening to DT90 enthusing about his old training (for Lord) circuit at Rubicon

Fultonius

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#57 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 09:58:41 pm

If you are training strength, then you need to rest a ton so you get the level of intensity you need.  This was discussed on a thread here a while back and someone (i forget who) went and did a boulder session resting alot between attempts and really working their max intensity and expressed surprise that they were able to perform much better than they expected. 



 :-[  That were me.  :agree:

a dense loner

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#58 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 10:02:39 pm
Genius bizarre thread. Surprised no ones brought up DT being one of Britains top 100 bachelors.

a dense loner

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#59 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 10:09:29 pm
Tho to be fair without knowing what Dave had done eddies puntered him for what he thought was a stupid vid that could cause injuries to younger climbers. At least he spoke what was on his mind

lagerstarfish

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#60 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 10:13:07 pm
Dave is still Britain's most eligible bachelor

DAVETHOMAS90

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#61 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 10:39:46 pm


I can't read this.

lagerstarfish

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#62 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 10:44:44 pm
illegible spatula?

you fucking cock

 :lol:

lagerstarfish

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#63 Re: Training Top Tips
April 15, 2015, 10:46:24 pm
where's the real pic from the mag?

Mark Lloyd

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#64 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 08:39:51 am

he's not a goddamn hero; he's a very naughty boy
[/quote]

Only the true hero denies his heroism

Ok I am a hero now f*** off

So what heroic acts has Dave Thomas performed
Well he soled caveman
Ok apart from soloing caveman
Soloing Lord
Well apart from soloing caveman and Lord

Mark Lloyd

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#65 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 08:54:07 am

listening to DT90 enthusing about his old training (for Lord) circuit at Rubicon
[/quote]

Can you elaborate so that the messiahs deeds can be documented and maybe given a name, the Lord of rubicon linkup/traverse

Wood FT

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#66 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 09:09:39 am
I was sat in the Bondo Campsite in Switzerland a few years ago chatting to a pair of climbers. We were talking about trad back in England as you do. I said Oli had done the Zone to which they were impressed, realising the game the taller of the pair then said his brother had soloed lord of the flies once, bullshit radar went off and I asked him rhetorically

"is your surname Thomas or something?"

"yes it is" 

"8)"

Eddies

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#67 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 11:38:41 am
I punted Dave’s original posts because he had started a thread to simply throw up a few hasty ‘training vids’ (like so many threads before this) without a decent explanation as to why he thought they were useful for climbing or how they had improved his own climbing.

I'm all for training don't get me wrong, in fact I spend a lot of time trying to improve my climbing performance during the times I cant climb outdoors by training indoors, which makes it all the more frustrating when a thread appears with no real content with regards to useful training to improve ones climbing.

Anyone can go on YouTube and drag up a hundred ‘climbing training’ clips, so without explaining what they've taken from them there's really nothing to gain from the thread.

I don't know who you are DAVETHOMAS90 and I don't mean any offence to you personally by this post or my punt.

In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

andy popp

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#68 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 01:33:28 pm
I watched Dave solo Lord, though only from the road. I was very happy not to be any closer.

petejh

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#69 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 01:55:46 pm
In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

You're spot on, it doesn't - plenty can't see that. Still funny as fuck calling Dave Thomas 'young and keen with much to learn'.

lagerstarfish

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#70 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 02:08:04 pm
what petejh said

also

with the hours that DT90 spends climbing, running, training, thinking about training and reflecting and retro-meta-reflecting on the training value of pretty much everything, I'm amazed that he got round to posting anything

tomtom

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#71 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 02:45:23 pm
I was wondering if it was possible to type whilst levitating - as a push down on the keyboard would surely result in pushing you further up in the air.

Then he could have typed it on his lap - whilst meditating..

Eddies

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#72 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 03:14:54 pm
In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

You're spot on, it doesn't - plenty can't see that. Still funny as fuck calling Dave Thomas 'young and keen with much to learn'.

Yeah, I didn't know who I was talking to and jumped to a conclusion. We all did before we knew.
Sorry about that.
And I'm not Obi Wan Kenobi, far from it... I could benefit from some mental training techniques from Dave as I am strong in body but weak in mind.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#73 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 07:10:58 pm
I punted Dave’s original posts because he had started a thread to simply throw up a few hasty ‘training vids’ (like so many threads before this) without a decent explanation as to why he thought they were useful for climbing or how they had improved his own climbing.

I'm all for training don't get me wrong, in fact I spend a lot of time trying to improve my climbing performance during the times I cant climb outdoors by training indoors, which makes it all the more frustrating when a thread appears with no real content with regards to useful training to improve ones climbing.

Anyone can go on YouTube and drag up a hundred ‘climbing training’ clips, so without explaining what they've taken from them there's really nothing to gain from the thread.

I don't know who you are DAVETHOMAS90 and I don't mean any offence to you personally by this post or my punt.

In defence of the few people I've offended, it doesn't matter if you've soloed E6 or climbed V12 barefoot, that doesn't necessarily mean that you know anything about 'training' for rock climbing.

Dear Mr Eddy.

Why don't you carefully read what I've posted, motivation for etc.

At no point have I proclaimed ownership of any particular expertise. I've been feeling pretty pissed off with the usual "build it up/tear it down" bull that a lot of people find entertaining in forums. Please don't try to make criticisms of claims I've not made. It's shite.

People who know me well are probably quite used to me getting excited about things that seem to be a new "key" or otherwise particularly effective.

I value other people's considered opinion of how things may work, and positive input through a forum is a great way to throw ideas around.

I've posted a couple of videos to better demonstrate what I've been feeling enthusiastic about, plus some others that I found relevant and inspiring, and one, a little tongue in cheek. Why don't you try the exercises and offer some feedback, or maybe explore for yourself in what way they may have relevance to some aspects of climbing?

That would be more interesting than:

"Anyone can go on YouTube and drag up a hundred ‘climbing training’ clips, so without explaining what they've taken from them there's really nothing to gain from the thread."  :shit:

DT.

Point being, that - apart from feeling obviously rather cross - that isn't how I've presented the videos at all.
« Last Edit: April 16, 2015, 07:18:40 pm by DAVETHOMAS90 »

Eddies

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#74 Re: Training Top Tips
April 16, 2015, 09:41:51 pm
Ok I'll give them a go... Please don't be cross

 

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