Author Topic: Training Top Tips  (Read 10112 times)

Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Training Top Tips
« on: April 10, 2015, 02:02:43 pm »
I'd like top start this thread, with a celebration of my new favourite exercise - the negative bar muscle-up.

Here's a video:



These are just brilliant, and in my view, probably the best triceps training for climbing ;D

To make them more fun, start by doing a feet-first flip over the bar, to the starting position. What's also fantastic training, is to gradually increase the depth of the negative, before pushing back up to the top.

My other favourite, is the one-arm come-down, or sets of negative one-arm pull-ups. More of that later..

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Offline lagerstarfish

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2015, 11:14:48 pm »
too much negativity, dude

people don't need to hear about your come-downs

 ;)
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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2015, 12:16:23 pm »
Thanks Lagers   :P

Here's another of my favourites, for that elusive "lock it at your waste" strength:



Doing these on rings or parallel bars makes it easier to get your legs out of the way, so that you can pull the bar closer to your torso. As does getting stronger, and extending your legs closer to the full lever position. Adding weight works very well.

A great exercise, and far more applicable to climbing than most forms of pull-up. Also a good way to boost your muscle-up.

I'd come up with this one myself, and always thought it was superb, so felt vindicated to see Megos doing these.

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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2015, 01:33:19 pm »
One arm come-downs.

Here is a great article on the one arm pull-up:

http://www.dragondoor.com/articles/the-one-arm-chinning-guide/

The first exercise described, is alternate one arm come-downs. A fantastic exercise. Gradually adding weight seems more effective than extending the length of each set.

I found this article via the link on John Gill's website here:

http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Chinups.html

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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2015, 01:51:35 pm »
Alternate one arm come-downs:



Better to use a longer bar, so you can work along it, swapping hands more easily.

Some viewers will love the hairstyle  :P
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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2015, 07:09:47 pm »
My elbows exploded from just watching that last video!

Offline bendavison

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2015, 10:09:33 pm »
I can't tell whether or not this thread is a joke
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Offline moose

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2015, 11:48:58 pm »
Part of me is reminded of one-click-through-too-many youtube sessions, whilst pissed at 2am: "down-the-rabbit-hole" explorations of David Lynchean small-town weirdness.  Another part of me is wondering whether or not the reason that I am so weak, is that I am not hanging around childrens' playgrounds doing these routines (and possibly attracting the eye of the social services)
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Offline TheTwig

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2015, 12:38:11 am »
The only result of half of those exercises is some kind of serious injury surely  :unsure:

Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2015, 12:49:39 am »
My elbows exploded from just watching that last video!

You mean, like this guy.



I like the way he exits stage left - presumably to scream  :o

Just for a little clarity, there are plenty of body weight/bar routines that are pretty cool exercises, if you're into that sort of thing. However, I'm trying to identify those particular routines that isolate climbing specific strength.

Apart from the one arm pull-up of course.
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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2015, 01:03:12 am »
I can't tell whether or not this thread is a joke

No, not a joke. Make of it what you will.

Laugh if you like  :)

There's nothing here that is particularly injurious - in my opinion, but as always, listen to your body, rest well etc.

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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2015, 03:17:34 pm »
Here's a great resource for some good motivational training videos and ideas,

Café Kraft on Vimeo:



Thanks to Steve the Pro, for the link.

 8)
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Offline Muenchener

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2015, 03:36:48 pm »
I'd like top start this thread, with a celebration of my new favourite exercise - the negative bar muscle-up.

I'd come up with this one myself, and always thought it was superb, so felt vindicated to see Megos doing these.

Since we're name-dropping, I can vindicate you some more by mentioning that Monika Retschy was doing bar muscle-ups at the wall this morning. Also typewriters on those hanging ball thingies - like on a bar, except that you stay in one place and shove the ball (or ring) away to the side.

She has lousy press-up form though.
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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2015, 05:52:48 pm »
Excellent stuff  ;D

I'd been in the park, and had had a great session doing the muscle-up negative. I'd also had my best one arm come-down sets, and was feeling psyched  8)

I've always tended to get quite excited when I discover a little key that works for me. The tucked lever rows are sweet too  :)
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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #14 on: April 12, 2015, 10:18:54 pm »
Great link from Café Kraft, again courtesy of Steve the Pro:



The young German lad looks quite strong.
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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2015, 11:22:58 pm »
"Since my feet kept slipping all the time.. I thought.. I might as well not use them at all"

Jan Hojer

For the full  :o  :jaw: check out @ 1:35 and 2:42

All on four x 2 hour training sessions a week (actually sounds like quite a lot for me):



I hope everyone finds this as inspiring as I do  ;D though I'm sure most people will have seen it before.
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Offline Sasquatch

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #16 on: April 13, 2015, 11:55:54 pm »
I can't tell whether or not this thread is a joke

No, not a joke. Make of it what you will.

Laugh if you like  :)

There's nothing here that is particularly injurious - in my opinion, but as always, listen to your body, rest well etc.

What Ben is getting at is that everything posted so far is all "training" to perform exercises rather than "training" to get better at climbing.  There's very little causation connection between being able to do a muscle up/1-arm pullup/ring based core work and climbing hard.

So far you've posted inspiring exercise clips form pros that are doing this stuff as an add on to a well rounded training program.  As in the Jan Hojer example he's doing 8 weeks of directly planned climbing training.  Yet what everyones see the "wow" party trick stuff, and somehow thinkis that's how to train to get better. 

Or was the intent of the thread to be "Training Top Tips for exercies not related to being a better climber"

You want top training tips:

1-When you go down the wall, improve the "quality" of your climbing and you'll see strength, technique, and endurance gains.

2- Order of importance of types of training:
    1-Climb
    2-More Climbing
    3-More Climbing
    4-Finger Strength
    5-More Climbing
    6-More Climbing
    7-Finger Strength
    8-More Climbing
    9-Finger Strength
    10-Other Stuff


Sorry if this sounds bitchy.  I've had a rough week.

Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2015, 01:28:53 am »


Just for a little clarity, there are plenty of body weight/bar routines that are pretty cool exercises, if you're into that sort of thing. However, I'm trying to identify those particular routines that isolate climbing specific strength.

Apart from the one arm pull-up of course.

As I said, make of it what you will. I'll post what I've found particularly helpful/exciting/want to share with others.

Glad you found some of the videos inspiring - I'd added the last couple for added "psyche", and are indeed less relevant.

Go clubbing and take a pill. It'll increase your power to weight.   :great:
« Last Edit: April 14, 2015, 01:36:23 am by DAVETHOMAS90 »
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Offline Nibile

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2015, 09:08:30 am »
A long time ago I posted a link to an article related to eccentrics, quite sure it was a study by Eva Lopez, and another one still on eccentrics from T-Nation.
Both articles seemed to confirm that most of us train eccentrics in the wrong way, IIRC.
Can't find them at the moment.
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Offline Gallant

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2015, 09:25:30 am »
To save Nib's searching too much : https://www.t-nation.com/training/negatives-youre-doing-them-wrong
Was one of the ones he posted in the training resources thread.

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/slow-and-eccentric-strength-training.html (was the Lopez one Erm, Sam responded with)

Offline Nibile

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2015, 09:41:42 am »
 :2thumbsup:
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Offline DAVETHOMAS90

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2015, 10:35:17 am »
I'm sure there are plenty of ways to improve on the basics of the three exercises I've posted.

Thanks for the contributions  :2thumbsup:

Will post back later, but off climbing  8)
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Offline blamo

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2015, 02:57:10 am »

1-When you go down the wall, improve the "quality" of your climbing and you'll see strength, technique, and endurance gains.

2- Order of importance of types of training:
    1-Climb
    2-More Climbing
    3-More Climbing
    4-Finger Strength
    5-More Climbing
    6-More Climbing
    7-Finger Strength
    8-More Climbing
    9-Finger Strength
    10-Other Stuff


Sorry if this sounds bitchy.  I've had a rough week.

I totally agree.   :agree:


I think the big difficulty is figuring out how to focus your energy on getting better at climbing.  No one seems to be writing about the nuances of climbing improvement. :furious:   :wall:

However, there is no shortage of additional exercises.  :wank:

Offline andy_e

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2015, 10:11:10 am »
1-When you go down the wall, improve the "quality" of your climbing and you'll see strength, technique, and endurance gains.

2- Order of importance of types of training:
    1-Climb
    2-More Climbing
    3-More Climbing
    4-Finger Strength
    5-More Climbing
    6-More Climbing
    7-Finger Strength
    8-More Climbing
    9-Finger Strength
    10-Other Stuff


Pfff, this approach clearly hasn't worked for you has it? You can't even 1-4-7... It's not like you've climbed anything hard to back up this training regime. I mean, If you'd done the Mandala I'd believe it works. Oh, wait...

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Re: Training Top Tips
« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2015, 10:22:10 am »
I think the big difficulty is figuring out how to focus your energy on getting better at climbing.  No one seems to be writing about the nuances of climbing improvement. :furious:   :wall:

I think that's because it's much harder to know how to approach it and harder to express! DM's 9/10 has a lots of sensible stuff in it though.

I'm with Sasquatch - tinkering and supplemental stuff are just that.