[cha1n]

Rocher Guichot was popular with young families. A really nice orange and red circuit and a few nice 7A's such as Jour de Rêve, there's a massive roof with various low 7's in and is home to my first 7B flash in Font, Gorétatov so that must be soft. A long slog takes you up the hill to Rocher du Potala which also had a nice red circuit and you can have a go at La Directe du Surplomb de la Mée whilst you're there!

I'm starting to get jealous now...

[fried]

Fuck me you're lazy! First you don't want to carry your pads up to Stanage and now you're describing a 5 min walk on the flat as a long slog up a hill.

Bloody youth of today

[Sloper]

Sloper always sees loads of stuff that's not there.

Zulus, thousands of 'em.

[Will Hunt]

I need a ticklist. Never been to font and never even really gazed at guidebooks or pics for it.
On grit I operate mostly in the low to mid 7s. I'm better on the slab/wall than I am on the roof. On the list so far is:

Gargantoit
Baleine
La Super Prestat (maybe, just maybe)
Cul de chien or whatever that 7a is that everyone does
Marie Rose

Think that's it. In all honesty there are three of us and I'm not going to change everyone's plans to get a set of ticks in. More likely, if we end up in the area it would be good to know what to aim at.

[fatdoc]

Rocher Guichot was popular with young families. A really nice orange and red circuit and a few nice 7A's such as Jour de Rêve, there's a massive roof with various low 7's in and is home to my first 7B flash in Font, Gorétatov so that must be soft. A long slog takes you up the hill to Rocher du Potala which also had a nice red circuit and you can have a go at La Directe du Surplomb de la Mée whilst you're there!

I'm starting to get jealous now...

Where this jour de Reve and goretatov??

I love this little place...

Yep.. Potala isnt much of a walk.. For a 4 year old. Some deeperate reds and great rough rock. A known serpant basking area.. Arnt they all??


Will, don't tick list your first visit, I did. Didn't really get  the place... flashing duroximane (sp) and the like.... Once you do afew days of red circuitry you kinda get it. Then you start to climb well, and then... The magic happens.

[cha1n]

Ha to be fair, I got lost for a while trying to find surplomb so that obviously effected my memory of the walk.

I have done long walk-ins before though, Sampson's stones, climbed up at Kinder recently. I just don't like walking before climbing. I bet Shauna Coxey gets carried in.

[205Chris]

I need a ticklist. Never been to font and never even really gazed at guidebooks or pics for it.
On grit I operate mostly in the low to mid 7s. I'm better on the slab/wall than I am on the roof. On the list so far is:

Gargantoit
Baleine
La Super Prestat (maybe, just maybe)
Cul de chien or whatever that 7a is that everyone does
Marie Rose

Think that's it. In all honesty there are three of us and I'm not going to change everyone's plans to get a set of ticks in. More likely, if we end up in the area it would be good to know what to aim at.

So looking at your venue list:

Gargantoit is at Gorge du Houx, also good there is Ligne de Mire which is a wall at 7a.

Baleine, Petit Bois. Also there is L'Oeuf (slabby prow) at 7A+ and the 6C highball wall of Big Jim which is brilliant.

Cuvier is a love it or hate it place. I expect it will be busy. If you go it's worth walking up to Cuvier-Bellevue for the classic 6C of Duroxmanie. The direct isn't much harder but earns you 7A+. Close to Duroxmanie are Les Cupules and Atmosphere, two good 7As.

Again, I expect Cul de Chien will be rammed. I've been there before at Easter and you almost had to take a ticket and wait in line for a go.

[cha1n]

Not sure exactly where they are. Jour de Reve is about half way in and the other one is further in, to the left. There are photos on Bleau.info, though not a great angle of Jour de Reve, which is a lovely shaped prow. http://bleau.info/guichot

I'm guessing it's going to be pretty warm in Font though. I'd head to the obvious shady areas like franchard cuisiniere, parts of Apremont, just anywhere with tree shade. You can go to any crag, open the guidebook and there will be amazing quality climbs at all grades. It's the best.

[Oldmanmatt]

Sloper always sees loads of stuff that's not there.

Zulus, thousands of 'em.

That's "Zulus! To the North. Thaaasands of 'em."

Everyone forgets they were to the North.

#importantdetails



I'll get my coat.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[fried]

I wouldn't bother with a tick-list Will. See (or manipulate) where your mates want to go, then scan bleau.info or some topos, you'll find stuff in your range everywhere.

Although if I did have a tick list for low 7s it would include this http://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html

[Footwork]

I wouldn't bother with a tick-list Will. See (or manipulate) where your mates want to go, then scan bleau.info or some topos, you'll find stuff in your range everywhere.

Although if I did have a tick list for low 7s it would include this http://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html

Will's got no chance, I'm driving. Not to cul de chien.

[tomtom]

I wouldn't bother with a tick-list Will. See (or manipulate) where your mates want to go, then scan bleau.info or some topos, you'll find stuff in your range everywhere.

Although if I did have a tick list for low 7s it would include this http://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html

+1 it'll take you at least a couple of days to get switched on to the place (and be humbled by several 5's) and then it'll all start to make sense. Just go with the crowd and think about targets later on (whilst you've been there)...

[fatdoc]

Ha to be fair, I got lost for a while trying to find surplomb so that obviously effected my memory of the walk.

I have done long walk-ins before though, Sampson's stones, climbed up at Kinder recently. I just don't like walking before climbing. I bet Shauna Coxey gets carried in.

What tomtom said... And run in!

[fatdoc]

In summery, about 6 teams, some en famille and chillin, some gaggin for it. All cool. Nice thread,

I'll will b at some point at merciers, bois rond, elephant and buthiers. You can't miss a 10 year old dented rusted and scratched 6 seater short wheel base vito with a roof and bike rack, with 4 kids that after 48 hours will look like blitz victims devouring vast quantities of French biscuits and crisps. Final I.d is we use is flashed air pads.... Come say hi!!

[finbarrr]

i'm going of the weekend (through monday) which means i'll be avoiding:
-bas cuvier
-franchard isatis and cuisiniere
-rocher aux sabots and cul du chien
-apremont
-elephant

looking forward to exploring the further parts of the forrest (again)

[fatdoc]

In summery, about 6 teams, some en famille and chillin, some gaggin for it. All cool. Nice thread,

I'll will b at some point at merciers, bois rond, elephant and buthiers. You can't miss a 10 year old dented rusted and scratched 6 seater short wheel base vito with a roof and bike rack, with 4 kids that after 48 hours will look like blitz victims devouring vast quantities of French biscuits and crisps. Final I.d is we use is flashed air pads.... Come say hi!!

Shit, after reading that... I can see me being seriously avoided... At least the kids know proper bouldering courtesy.

[Jaspersharpe]

Unlike you then?

[fatdoc]

Harsh?...

[Jaspersharpe]

I thought about using a smiley but then I thought it was funnier without, sorry!

[fatdoc]

 

[Jaspersharpe]

 

[Will Hunt]

Can someone explain what exactly they mean by the Font "3 days to get sqitched onto it" rule. I always thought this was the case only for shit indoor bred climbers with no technique.

[cha1n]

I think you're right for the most part Will. I've never had any problems with Font, in fact I find font grades softer than Peak stuff.

Perhaps you'd struggle if you're no good at topping out.

[Jaspersharpe]

I think you're right for the most part Will. I've never had any problems with Font, in fact I find font grades softer than Peak stuff.

Perhaps you'd struggle if you're no good at topping out.

I agree.

[Bonjoy]

Like anywhere the soft touches are piss and the sandbags are desperate. There's plenty of both.