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What Peak 8A's will be in condition between now and mid-August? (Read 10055 times)

a dense loner

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What do you mean you can't even do the crouch? There is no "the crouch" you do the stand or you do the sit. Same with "the press" there is no fuckin crouch. You've done the stand or the sit! What is it with this diluting of probs? If you're not good enough to do it you don't do it, you don't get medals for trying! Are we American or young children?

People are more than welcome to crouch if it's a problem that requires crouching to start, if it goes from a sit then all they're doing is working the prob. The rules we don't have are quite simple.

Ps. That's not an attack on you Haydn, it's just the word "crouch" sends me close to the edge  ;)

Richie Crouch

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Ps. That's not an attack on you Haydn, it's just the word "crouch" sends me close to the edge  ;)

Hear, hear!

dave

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What do you mean you can't even do the crouch? There is no "the crouch" you do the stand or you do the sit. Same with "the press" there is no fuckin crouch. You've done the stand or the sit! What is it with this diluting of probs? If you're not good enough to do it you don't do it, you don't get medals for trying! Are we American or young children?

People are more than welcome to crouch if it's a problem that requires crouching to start, if it goes from a sit then all they're doing is working the prob. The rules we don't have are quite simple.

Ps. That's not an attack on you Haydn, it's just the word "crouch" sends me close to the edge  ;)

What the fuck are you on about Dense? There's always been crouch/kneeling starts described and done for those problems, as on that bit of rock it's an obvious starting point. Check out Harris's old cragx Rubicon article for instance.

Paul B

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If PE is more your bag then look no further than Staminaband, by the road, no moves harder than V8 V4 but 25 of them in a row, endless locals' beta on tap, what's not to like!

Fixed that typo for you  ;)

Given your height you're essentially saying it's V4 to walk along the floor holding onto a bit of rock. Figures I guess  ;)

bendavison

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If PE is more your bag then look no further than Staminaband, by the road, no moves harder than V8 V4 but 25 of them in a row, endless locals' beta on tap, what's not to like!

Fixed that typo for you  ;)

Given your height you're essentially saying it's V4 to walk along the floor holding onto a bit of rock. Figures I guess  ;)

Yep, I am that shit! V4 moves are hard aren't they? Especially after doing 24 of them.

a dense loner

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Funny I've never thought of kneeling in front of a boulder prob and then saying I've done it, what a weird world I must live in

cofe

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Some people don't even kneel in front of them. They just say they've done them.

monkey boy

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Influx looks ok but from what I've seen of videos online nobody is doing it from the actual start specified by Polish when he wrote it up. Might explain the popularity.

I think starting matched on the undercuts is a more obvious start than where Dave started. The beta has changed from the way Dave (as always) did it and I am sure it is easier but I think it still warrants 8a in my opinion. It's like most limestone; if you're fingers are strong enough you will probably piss it and if they aren't it might take a bit longer!

If you're big and like compression and knee bars then Andronicus seems like a good one! It feels 8a+ to me but I know Barrows thought it easier and once Gangle figured the knee bar he could path it.

monkey boy

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Some people don't even kneel in front of them. They just say they've done them.

We need a like button for comments!  :clap2:

abarro81

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Freakin cheaters starting fr stand on influx! Get that tipex out Dave.

Johnny Brown

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Badger rock is very easy to find. Cross the fields to the valley rim, hop over the stile then turn right and follow the rim until you find the crag.

The problems here look very good (only done the easy stuff) in marked contrast to almost everything else mentioned above.

tim palmer

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The only problem with badger for a first 8a is that it is hard for the grade (in my opinion)




Eddies

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All of the soft 8A's in the Peak are 7C+!!
slim pickings

haydn jones

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Tumbleweed get 8A?

haydn jones

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Err I mean rumbleweed

 

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