dom, i looked at your power club posts recently and its the exact kind of thing im trying to do this phase - bouldering, hangboard, weights,etc. I'll give it a go and see how it works out. And do you do anything with meal timing or nutrient timing or just in general try to eat more protein/fat and less carbs these days? I guess my only concern is running out of juice during a longer bouldering session, for instance if im not eating enough carbs.
I guess my only concern is running out of juice during a longer bouldering session, for instance if im not eating enough carbs.
Been getting into a strength phase -- basically bouldering a lot after mostly climbing for a while and been a bit frustrated at slow progress on very physical problems. I can hang on forever off a crimp or sloper but am falling on the big moves, the gastons, on the lockoffs. The tendons and pulleys are strong but the muscles are weak and they are taking forever to grow.I obviously need to tune my workouts better but thinking back to when i did weight training i remember diet made a big difference. Id think that the stuff you eat in a low volume high intensity strength phase should probably be quite different from the higher volume lower intensity endurance or performance phases, no?I'm currently eating a fairly balanced diet with some protein but more carbs and veggies - fine for climbing loads but i wonder if its holding me back in terms of strength. Im thinking i might try upping the protein and fat intake while decreasing carbs for the next few weeks. In addition i was thinking of doing more weights and rings during this period - deadlifting, maybe even a few squats, to encourage general muscle growth. After this period I'd go back to maintenance work.Was wondering if anyone has experimented with adjusting their diet with these periodized programs and how it went? Any weight lifter will tell you diet is as important as exercise for muscle growth. If you're periodizing your training, it doesnt make sense to me that your diet should stay the same.When i look around the boulder gym i notice quite a few of the strong boulderers have some meat on their bones, whereas strong route climbers seem almost universally lanky. A few kg put on during a strength phase and the excess cut during subsequent phases doesnt seem like it would hurt things.
It's easy to get the movement dialled in for big moves, using pulleys or therabands or whatever else floats your boat.
Low calories and low carbs during a power phase? I think that the most important things to bear in mind, with sports nutrition, are: the possible long term consequences of sudden and drastic changes in one's diet (especially under the form of metabolic issues, insulin resistance, etc); the importance of what's called "peri-workout nutrition". The first aspect is the most important, because to tick a project we could really fuck up our metabolims for months; the second is more relevant to performance. We have to eat for what we are going to do. There's no meaning in having low carbs before and intense workout, as there's no meaning in eating a ton of pasta right before spending the whole afternoon sitting on the beach. So, low carbs, high proteins, etc. per se don't mean anything, they have to be related to the activity. ELEL EMEM are the two guidelines: Excercise Less Eat Less, Excercise More Eat More. We have to teach our body to burn burn burn, and we obtain this by giving our body lots to burn. Most people fail because the team new eating habits - always under the form of reduced calories and carbs - with sudden increase in training. That's the worst you could possibly do. Sudden gains, forever fucked. Trimming the diet is the trickiest thing, and I think that it's best to resist the temptation of searching for quick gains that are going to be lost in the long term and never gained back. My 2 cents.
