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Strengthening pulleys (Read 14908 times)

jwi

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#50 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 11, 2015, 05:09:14 pm
obviously, any type of strength training cannot be high volume (compared to climbing) and it is also (extremely repetitive compared to climbing), so it may not be the best source for your googling efforts.

Strength endurance training is not the best for improving tendons, obviously.

We know a lot about the tendons of dead rats.

cha1n

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#51 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 11, 2015, 06:15:01 pm
I just saw a physio about an unrelated shoulder issue and noticed the exercise form he gave me had a link to a pdf with pulley rehab in the name and here it is:

http://919clinic.co.uk/Downloads/pulley%20rehab.pdf

Haven't read it yet but will do later. Hopefully it contains useful information.

tommy_k

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#52 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 13, 2015, 08:04:38 am
Is this in line with Dave MacLeods recommendations in his new book?

mctrials23

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#53 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 13, 2015, 09:38:37 am
Is this in line with Dave MacLeods recommendations in his new book?

Pretty much. Dave goes into a little more detail in a few areas but essentially they are advocating the same recovery strategy.

tommy_k

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#54 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 13, 2015, 09:46:00 am
Thanks  :beer2:

Paul B

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#55 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 13, 2015, 10:55:44 am
I just saw a physio about an unrelated shoulder issue and noticed the exercise form he gave me had a link to a pdf with pulley rehab in the name and here it is:

http://919clinic.co.uk/Downloads/pulley%20rehab.pdf

Haven't read it yet but will do later. Hopefully it contains useful information.

I've always though(/found) that the timescales quoted in that PDF are very optimistic, is this just me?

mctrials23

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#56 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 13, 2015, 01:18:09 pm
I just saw a physio about an unrelated shoulder issue and noticed the exercise form he gave me had a link to a pdf with pulley rehab in the name and here it is:

http://919clinic.co.uk/Downloads/pulley%20rehab.pdf

Haven't read it yet but will do later. Hopefully it contains useful information.

I've always though(/found) that the timescales quoted in that PDF are very optimistic, is this just me?

The timescales in that are super optimistic if you have done more than the most minor damage to it. Mine isn't a particularly bad one at all but I'm just over 2 months into my recovery and its not close to being 100%. I can use it at about 90% I reckon but nothing that is dynamically loading it and nothing where I really have to bear down on a small crimp.

If you don't have any setbacks I would be amazed as well. 4 weeks to competing in competitions is just laughable though. I don't think that there is any chance that the person he is referring to had a partial tear at all.

Paul B

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#57 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 13, 2015, 02:18:25 pm
My A4 tear took 8 months and I think I did a good job of rehabbing that one (for reference).

TheTwig

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#58 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 01:14:04 am
What's the word for an injury to a pulley that doesn't result in a tear? Last year I did a huge powerful move pulling from a middle finger mono and felt the classic 'twang/pop' and streak of pain/lightning shoot from finger to elbow, as well as swelling, and had to stop the session there, but within 2 weeks I was back to 100% strength no problem.  :ninja:

Fultonius

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#59 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 03:30:18 am
What's the word for an injury to a pulley that doesn't result in a tear? Last year I did a huge powerful move pulling from a middle finger mono and felt the classic 'twang/pop' and streak of pain/lightning shoot from finger to elbow, as well as swelling, and had to stop the session there, but within 2 weeks I was back to 100% strength no problem.  :ninja:

Pain from finger to elbow sounds much more like a tendon strain than a pulley strain to me.  :shrug:

kelvin

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#60 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 10:50:05 am
What's the word for an injury to a pulley that doesn't result in a tear?

Fortunate.

I find it strange that what people do outside of climbing never seems to get a mention in threads like this. Personally, my fingers get used far more at work than they do climbing and whilst that may be with less intensity - it's made a considerable difference to how strong/weak they are in general.

If I spend a day sanding down, then basically, my fingers are in the crimp position for hours on end and it'd seem daft to me, to then try and pull on crimps that evenin., Thirty odd years of using a paint brush have left me with really strong middle fingers but only on the thumb side, which is why I can do mono pullups but the way I hold a brush has also led to having weak index fingers. My back three are as strong as my front three for the same reason.
The only finger injuries I've had have been collateral ones - from a foot slip basically.

All the other stuff we do comes into play but often gets ignored and finger issues get examined within the small sphere of their climbing application. Maybe the troubles start elsewhere...

tomtom

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#61 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 02:47:51 pm
:D nice post Kelvin..  I can see it now at the London bouldering walls - after Yoga a sanding and painting session :)

kelvin

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#62 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 07:26:11 pm
Maybe that's why the Beastmaker lads have fingers of steel... nowt to do with fingerboarding  ;)

a dense loner

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#63 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 07:54:57 pm
What some other guy putting a piece of wood on a lathe and then a woman using a Dremmel makes their fingers strong?  :-\

petejh

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#64 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 08:00:02 pm
You have to vacuum the romance out of everything don't you.

kelvin

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#65 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 08:02:57 pm
Dremmels are cheating - it'd be like Nibs taking weight off  :o

Oldmanmatt

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#66 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 08:08:34 pm
Lathe?

You sure?

mrjonathanr

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#67 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 08:15:15 pm
:D nice post Kelvin..  I can see it now at the London bouldering walls - after Yoga a sanding and painting session :)


a dense loner

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#68 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 08:18:59 pm
My bad, cnc turning machine  :ras:

webbo

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#69 Re: Strengthening pulleys
March 15, 2015, 08:20:52 pm
 :wave:
What some other guy putting a piece of wood on a lathe and then a woman using a Dremmel makes their fingers strong?  :-\
It works like those tens type machines that vibrate you strong. ;)

 

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