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Font in summer ticklist (Read 4592 times)

seankenny

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Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 09:51:34 am
I've just booked a week in Font in July. I've been before at that time of year so know the drill, getting up early and going to shady areas. Does anyone have good suggestions for problems in the 6B-7A range that won't be too badly affected by the heat and conditions? Ideally things that I can do without a spotter, too, as I'm probably going to be the only climber on the holiday.

Sloper

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#1 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 10:21:57 am
There'll be plenty of folk about we go in late July & early August,

In terms of problems hard to recommend stuff as I don't know what you've done before but I'd say Franchard, Roche aux Sabots and Beauvais are always good value and provides more opportunities than some of the other areas


rodma

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#2 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 01:00:22 pm
areas like apremont get way too much sun during the day, so the rock tends to be [scotch accent]a wee bit too toasty to the touch[/scotch accent], even early in the morning since the rock retains the heat exceptionally well

i like font in the summer, far nicer for relaxing in the evening with a nice bottle of red, rather than shivering just to stay warm when the conditions are supposedly prime

ghisino

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#3 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 01:51:55 pm
@ roche aux sabots i'd only advise "zen" as a summer problem.

anything in rocher des souris except prouesse and ratatouille, which are fully in the sun. many new propblems in this area

gorges du houx

envers d'apremont

petit bois

in rocher canon, the problems located around the start of the red circuit and the ridge with full metal jacket.

the bout du monde traverse in elephant

pretty much all franchard areas, of course.

rocher des demoiselles


finally, generally speaking, the best problems in full summer are those with quite a lot of moves in caves or big roofs, but unfortunately they tend to be harder than 7a.



fried

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#4 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 02:20:08 pm
As Above,

2 obvious ticks in Petit Bois would be Big Jim 6C and La Baleine 7A.

Beauvais is a nice spot, but it gets a lot of sun overall on the harder stuff on top of the hill.

Shame bleau.info is down at the moment.

T_B

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#5 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 02:43:13 pm
I really like Rocher du Potala in that grade range and it's fairly shady.

I've always found Cuisiniere to be the coolest - temps wise - venue in the forest. I did things like Entorse and La Jouissance du Massetar on a very hot September day. Retrofriction (7A) to the right of Entorse is class and in the shade.

seankenny

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#6 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 03:27:22 pm
Thanks guys, this is all really useful.

lagerstarfish

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#7 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 06:47:54 pm
Elephant is generally very hot in the sun, but La Barre Fixe doesn't get much direct sunshine (maybe only a bit in the morning?) and is good for an evening blast with short walk in

positive holds, flat landing

6B from standing, 6C traversing in from left and an overgraded 7B from sitting

Sloper

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#8 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 07:27:13 pm
I can't picture that one,but there are some cracking blacks past la couer which are in the shade in the evening.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 03, 2015, 11:28:04 pm
Buthiers Piscine? On a small hill and quite shady, can be Ok if you aren't too picky about wanting to do any specific problem, and hopefully pool is open by then!

andy_e

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#10 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 04, 2015, 08:42:18 am


This was filmed during a heatwave apparently, so may be of some use! Pitt Boule looks ace.

ghisino

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#11 Re: Font in summer ticklist
March 04, 2015, 10:27:52 am

6B from standing, 6C traversing in from left and an overgraded 7B from sitting

in a few years it will have two more moves and become 7C

 

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