[Muenchener]

all the easy stuff is horrible. I mean they are good problems, but polished to the texture of a bathroom tile. Pulling up on flatties that gently sloped requires faith - especially for a 4 or 5 grade problem!

I remember the crux of Windhover at Stoney being stepping up onto a highish slightly sloping foothold about the size - and texture - of half a bathroom tile. And that was years ago.

The non-renewability of climbable rock as a resource is going to be a big problem in decades to come.

[kelvin]

again subverted by actual rock climbing

Begone heathen.

[Sasquatch]

STG: Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather, 1-4-7
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt....

M-Run. felt hard as it's been way too long...
T- Lunch Campus session, feeling better.  did 1-3-6
W-Run w/ mate.  felt much better than monday. 
T-Lunch Boulder session, and PM boulder session on moonboard.  Up to 7B+, but didn't try 100% as left ring finger felt a bit tweaky.  not injured, but felt like I shouldn't push it.
F-rest - headed up for a weekend in cabin with wife and daughter.
S-1 hr skate ski, and 1.25 hr touring ski
S- 3 hr backcountry snowboarding (18 inches of fresh fluffy powder) had a grin from ear to ear for hours....  1 hoiur touring with wife and daughter. 

Good week in terms of overall life.  Not as good for climbing, but the scales will balance as life goes on.  Made plans to get outside next weekend and do some cleaning and possibly some climbing

[webbo]

Mon. Rough in bed all day.
Tue. A bit better easyish session on the board.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board steady session.
Fri. Turbo 1 hour. Then raking and shifting gravel in garden.
Sat. Board not bad session did a project and repeated stuff. Then hammering fence posts and shifting 1 and tons of gravel
Sun. Board warm up then 2 problems 10 times each with different feet. Turbo 1 hour.
Still not over my cold feels like it might be developing in to a chest infection.

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T Good lunchtime sess on The Wave with the owner of the Foundry that isn't Jerry. Felt quite good.
W gym core and a bit of Bulgarian bagging
T Shed. Did yet another new favourite problem
F Long day in London
S Core stuff at gym first thing in the morning. Walked soooo fast on the way back from the match and sprinted as hard as I could to just beat my son to the car over about 70 metres.
S Family stuff meant I couldnt get out until nearly midday. Managed to get warmed up but then it started to rain and hail at Secret Garden. Saw Cofe and JB who said it had been mint. Bottom bit of LHM stayed dry so just did that as much as I could in preparation for next visit

[Schnell]

STG: 7B in font at easter

M. indoor campusing and FB session. bit of shoulder stability stuff.
T. aerocap for 1hr, decentish session trying 15 move links on a route at intervals. my dodgy finger felt a bit tweaky though so left a bit early
W. rest, shoulder stability.
T. indoor session. switched to power phase of training so did some attempts at 1-3-5 on the campus board and tried to work out how to do max hangs without weights.
F. rest
S. good outdoor session. did a new 7B after a bit of effort. haven't done so many that it's not a minor yyfy.
S. shoulders and stuffin meself.

Good week. I feel like I've made progress since the new year and I'm starting the last phase of training before font. Just have to avoid getting injured...

[seankenny]

I've always found it incredibly hard getting the intensity and rest duration right on AnCap circuits, but I think this one will work as I can easily make the finish a bit harder.

How should an AnCap circuit relate to one's on-sight level? The same, or a little bit harder?

[AJM]

MTG:.....  resume my Shark-lite Infinite Gravity project addiction

If you need people to get down there with, let me know. Definite goal for me, probably for next year, but I'd love to get down there and scope things out in preparation...

[gme]

Mon- 45 mins yoga.
Tues- schoolroom- warmed up then tried the problem i want to peak for. Didn't do 2 of the moves but felt do able so quite please. Feel really tired afterwards even though i seemed to spend most of the time resting between 2 secs of effort.
Wed- rest. Supposed to train but a family incident got in the way
Thurs- Moonboard Alnwick. 1 1/2hrs 20 probs upto 7A then did a 7A+ i had not done.
Fri- Moonboard again 1 hr session worked another 7A+ and 7B.
Sat - Moonboard - 1 hr. Did the 7A+ i worked yesterday.
Sunday - Moonboard. 1 1/2 hrs 4th day on and was supposed to be dead hanging but felt OK so bouldered. Did all the problems i have done upto 7A+ 6B+ x 4, 6C x 3, 6C+ x 4 and 7A x 2 all done 1st try. 7A x 1 and 7A+ x 3 all done in a few tries.

Good week although i again have not done any of the extra stuff. Helen was away all weekend so had to fit the climbing in between taking kids to footy, cricket x 2, rugby, drama club and NUFC match hence the short sessions.

Feeling so much stronger on moonboard than when i started. Sundays session was the best since i started again, however the installation of a new cooling system has made the problems a lot less greasy so may have had an effect.

[T_B]

Tues- schoolroom- warmed up then tried the problem i want to peak for.

C'mon we need names

[gme]

Driller Killer. Did move to pocket as well last night so one more to go. Cant keep my foot on the blue hold for the move to the edge at the minute. 5th day on though.

Would like to do woodology as well, not tried it yet.

Fingers battered today, 20+ tries at this beat any fingerboard workout.

I forgot to mention 79.5kg as well so broke the 80 barrier. Onwards and downwards.

[abarro81]

I forgot to mention 79.5kg as well so broke the 80 barrier. Onwards and downwards.

I'm not sure whether this is a complement or an insult, but from looking at you I hadn't realised you were such a fatty!

[T_B]

Nice one Gav. That pocket scares me 

[iain]

MTG:.....  resume my Shark-lite Infinite Gravity project addiction

If you need people to get down there with, let me know. Definite goal for me, probably for next year, but I'd love to get down there and scope things out in preparation...

I will cheers, got a few others interested (at the moment anyway,) aiming for a couple of weekends in August to start with and seeing how I go from there. Feel free to drop me a line if you're up Yorkshire way in the meantime.

[AJM]

I will cheers, got a few others interested (at the moment anyway,) aiming for a couple of weekends in August to start with and seeing how I go from there. Feel free to drop me a line if you're up Yorkshire way in the meantime.

Willdo. It's such a long way but I would like to do cave route left...

[36chambers]

STG:
- 7C
- Finish off Stu's Roof before it turns into a MTG
- 7B in Font
MTG: get well acquainted with 7C/7C+
LTG: 8B

M: rest
T: failed lamp session on Stu's Roof, rained off before I got warmed up
W: yoga ball core workout week 7
T: Depot, felt strong on the 50 board
F: rest
S: wet
S: Almscliff, too windy for any serious climbing, went to the Depot, tried some "steady" problems set by folk on the 50 board, got completely shut down. Good. Keen to get back on them.

[iain]

Willdo. It's such a long way but I would like to do cave route left...

Not climbed at Gordale yet, that looks like a reason to go

[Three Nine]

Its an amazing route and very steady.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.

W: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.

T: Boardroom - Couple of hours on routes for the first time in ages. Did some stuff up to 6b then repeatedly failed on a steep 6b+, still crap on steep indoor stuff so just kept trying it over and over again.

F: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.

S: Rest

S: Forecast only looked good until midday so went out local early to Ruthin Escarpment. Did "Pity the Billionaire" 6C and came close on the 7A sit but kept falling off the last move as problem got progressively more soaked... Used to be 6C+ from a sit but  the massive shelf fell off, now a better problem.

More posterior chain stuff this week, seems to be helping my lower back/hamstring/glute flexability and strength. Hanging leg raises are certainly feeling nicer/easier. Aching with DOMS every day but that's only a good thing.

[Sasquatch]

How's it feeling two days on of Deadlifting? 

There's no way I could safely do two on, unless one or both of the days was incredibly light.

[Luke Owens]

How's it feeling two days on of Deadlifting? 

There's no way I could safely do two on, unless one or both of the days was incredibly light.

My legs are a bit like jelly on the 2nd day, but once I've warmed up I feel fine. It doesn't feel like I'm in dangerous territory. I am lifting light though, 70kg is not much over my body weight and I could probably lift heavier, but I'm not sure there's need to push the weight too much with what I'm trying to achieve?

I'm definitely feeling more in control of my legs on steeper climbs all ready which is good. Usually they just feel like a deadweight, I'm still no where near where I want to be but it seems to be a step in the right direction.

[Sasquatch]

Good to hear.  Hope they help out.

[mark s]

long term goals ;climb again this summer,will be happy doing up to E3
Bench 140
d/l 240
squat 180

m chest
4 sets of flat bench
3 sets incline
3 x flat dumbell press
3x dips
3x cable flyes

t back
d/lifts
1 set 60
1 set 100
4x 140
6x180
went for 220 moved upwards an inch,no more
wanted do t bar rows but lower back was killing
5 sets lat pulldown
4 sets underhand pulldowns
3 sets stiff arm pull downs
w arms
3 sets dumbell curls
3sets straight bar curls
3 sets close  grip bench
di 6 reps c/grip at 100 which i was chuffed with
3 sets pushdowns
2 sets skull crushers

th work

fri shoulders
5 sets over head press,worked upto 75 for 5 reps
3 sets side raises
3 sets bent over flyes
3 sets front raises
4 sets shrugs

sat legs
5 sets squats
3 sets leg curls
5 sets calf raise
4 sets leg press

end of week weight 16st 5lb
need to address that a little or a lot

[a dense loner]

Hehe fat bastard

Strong goals!

[french erick]

STG= making sure I climb/train regularly without tweaking my fingers again
MTG= Onsighting regularly E4 including hideous cracks (that's OW too)
LTG= astroman and romantic warriors (and a lots of VIIIs)

Back into training at homewall after finger injury and winter climbing a fair amount. I have not done another VIII this year but plenty of awesome, far away VIIs (http://www.scottishwinter.com/?s=the+sea+the+sea&paged=2)

Wednesday and Thursday evenings both hour session on mainly my 45d board (rest of wall is temporary storage). Felt good and tiring but I need to watch that finger. Mileage for me and thankfully longer and nicer days ahead will mean sessions on the local sport venue (https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Moy_Rock)

But mainly, I need to get that training motivation going, how do you guys do it?