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Holds (Read 12538 times)

masonwoods101

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Holds
February 26, 2015, 06:31:36 pm
I'm looking at extending my board (bought a house with a garage ) and so need more holds. And I've spotted these http://www.customholds.com/18_small_to_medium.htm and was wondering if anyone has heard of/ used the company before and have any reviews.... They seem cheap enough...

masonwoods101

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#1 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 06:32:26 pm
Any other beta on holds would be appreciated too

thekettle

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#2 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 06:36:08 pm
Not tried custom holds but I really rate the Core holds on my board, also buying Bleaustone holds through rock+run means free postage, which save a lot of £ on a set.

masonwoods101

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#3 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 06:50:04 pm
i gave up looking on ebay cos they where all collect or really expensive postage!

webbo

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#4 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 07:04:38 pm
I rate some of the Beacon holds. I got a set of cellar dwellers and some mirror crimps which they don't seem to sell separately now. They are in one of their sets which unfortunately has too many big holds included.

masonwoods101

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#5 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 07:11:57 pm
beacon holds look pretty good. the cellar dwellers and klingon sets look good value. I'm gonna hopefully extend the board loads over time so thinking of buying sets of holds as the boards expand ( then ill bang up photos on the board share)

rodma

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#6 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 07:34:46 pm
You've just missed a call on Stonesmith holds, but the board set still look great value. I almost bought a set and I don't even have anywhere to put them.

masonwoods101

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#7 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 07:42:05 pm
been looking at stone smith holds.... bit pricey (just in the process of buying a house........) the full power crimps look good. the main worry about buying holds is i don't want any that will destroy skin. I've got some wooden holds to put on as well which can be a bit more skin friendly.

rodma

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#8 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 07:51:17 pm
I thought the screw on hand holds were anything but pricey given that their not tiny by any means.

masonwoods101

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#9 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 07:59:53 pm
most seem to have bolt and screw holes. 10 for around 40 quid int it... beacon holds, custom holds and a few others are cheaper for roughly similar sized/ designs. but they aren't made by malc are they i suppose

rodma

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#10 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 08:09:46 pm
The board set are 25 holds for 70 quid, but last week they were just 56 quid with ten matching footholds chucked in.

Still they're only 1.067 fuckalls a hold even now

masonwoods101

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#11 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 09:06:47 pm
I won't spend a penny over 1.066 fuckalls. Wish I'd spotted that deal. They look like a good mix of holds (pinch or edge- the only two hold types). Problem is that set is screw on handholds and I'd rather go for bolt on to make resetting the board easier

rodma

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#12 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 09:17:50 pm
It's tough to know when you first get a board. Resetting with screw ons is easy but there is always the chance of snapping them, plus you pepper the wall with screw holes. 

Certainly my first board only had bolt ons on it for the rear of resetting reason, but that was before cheap battery guns were invented.

masonwoods101

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#13 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 09:35:49 pm
My current board (in my dad's garage) has some screw ons and some bolt ons... Definitely prefer the bolts.... Have bought a load off tee nuts ready...

Probes

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#14 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 11:44:13 pm
I bought a few hundred off customholds years back for cliffs barn, pretty decent and a good ££ for resins, not sure how they would fair on a steep board, they were fine for the vert/leaning walls. If you fancied any wooden ones, i do small sets of crimps that are good for... crimping..  :-\

sjw

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#15 Re: Holds
February 26, 2015, 11:49:53 pm
. If you fancied any wooden ones, i do small sets of crimps that are good for... crimping..  :-\

Do you have info, pics and prices of these? I had a look on your site for some a while ago but couldn't find anything. Ta!

Probes

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#16 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 01:52:16 am
. If you fancied any wooden ones, i do small sets of crimps that are good for... crimping..  :-\

Do you have info, pics and prices of these? I had a look on your site for some a while ago but couldn't find anything. Ta!

Yes sure ... here.. http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds

sjw

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#17 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 02:08:54 am
Cheers, don't quite know how I managed to miss that page!

a dense loner

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#18 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 10:08:52 am
Fwiw, and this should be next to nothing, all my holds are wooden screw ons. Brilliant. I've never actually liked resin holds, my hands just don't like them after 4days of chalk. Why the fuck do I climb inside all the time? Off to do some soul searching

lagerstarfish

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#19 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 11:40:49 am
because all the outside bouldering near where you live is shit?

MoominG

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#20 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 12:18:30 pm
I got the exact Custom Holds set in the OP for my 35degree garage wall a little while back. I think they're great holds if you want some crimpy brutality - some of them are really tiny, but that was exactly what I was looking for as my finger strength was pathetic. I found that probably 1 or 2 of the 18 holds weren't so useful as handholds on the overhang (the leftmost hold in their picture is basically a tiny sloper which I could barely hang on on my board due to the resulting slope), but even for 16/17 decent holds the price seemed great. I also got a couple of their jibs sets for foot holds because, again, they're a great price (http://www.customholds.com/grit_jibs.htm).

sjw

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#21 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 12:37:15 pm
It's worth knowing that Beacon have a minimum order of £100 ex vat, or so they told me when I inquired about getting some cave dweller holds.

Eddies

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#22 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 12:40:41 pm
I've had Beastmaker wooden holds in the past and they are brilliant and at the time extremely good value for money considering there are handmade by 8C climbers!! Throw them an email and tell them what you want and how much you have to spend and see what they say.
Don't bother buying footholds, simply buy a cheap mini-Jenga set off ebay and simply pilot drill two holes and screw them on. I've got them on my 45 and they are the perfect size. Also v-good for crimping if you run a sander along the front edge.

I've most recently bought two sets of the Stone Smith holds, which came with a free set of foot-jibs but as said above I think this offer may have ended.

Don't buy resin holds off ebay in bulk, they are all shite and will break im my experience.
You get what you pay for... invest some money now and the payback in strength gains will be worth its weight in gold ;)

masonwoods101

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#23 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 02:13:18 pm
Think I may go for the stone smith full power mini jugs and whip up a few wooden pinches then as the board is 45 degs....

blamo

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#24 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 06:10:20 pm
Don't buy resin holds off ebay in bulk, they are all shite and will break im my experience.
You get what you pay for... invest some money now and the payback in strength gains will be worth its weight in gold ;)

 :agree:

I learned this the hard way.  A dozen good holds seem to get more use on my wall than 4 dozen junk holds.

GazM

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#25 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 07:34:57 pm
I bought a few hundred off customholds years back for cliffs barn, pretty decent and a good ££ for resins, not sure how they would fair on a steep board, they were fine for the vert/leaning walls. If you fancied any wooden ones, i do small sets of crimps that are good for... crimping..  :-\
Excellent marketeering.  I've just put in an order for my board.  Been looking for some nice wooden screw-ons...

Fiend

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#26 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 09:42:19 pm
Beacon are good - simple shapes and okay texture. The simpler Core ones are okay, the more complicated ones are annoying - the very smooth limestone texture ones might be good though. Most Stonesmith ones I've felt are too coarse by far for personal training, however a few of the simpler smoother shapes look good. There are also some pure crimpers with a nice smooth texture being trialed at TCA, dunno how many more of them there are.

Others: Avoid Holdz like the skin-shredding plague that they are. Bleaustone are great and come in nice varieties and elegant shapes. Axis are great too, generally more angular than Bleaustone but mostly really friendly rounded lips and a nice texture too. Lapis are a bit more complex but have some decent more complex holds, they can feel sharp though.

For a home wall with intensive boulder training, I'd go for Axis and.....maybe Bleaustone as a back-up.

masonwoods101

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#27 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 09:54:52 pm
I think on a training board the holds should be really simple by hats why I like the stone smith and bleaustone...

Doylo

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#28 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 10:11:16 pm
If I was going to buy holds I'd like to give my money to Malc.

masonwoods101

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#29 Re: Holds
February 27, 2015, 11:15:57 pm
Purely because he never used a knee bar in the cave?

Eddies

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#30 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 01:33:04 am
"climb open, climb strong"

JJP

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#31 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 08:59:15 am
There are quite a lot of the stonesmith holds up in TCA now and I personally really like them.  In particular, the board holds and mini jugs are really nice to climb on and would be cool on a homeboard.  Like Rodma I nearly bought the board holds when they were reduced despite having nowhere currently to put them!

masonwoods101

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#32 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 09:22:17 am
Gutted I missed that.... The one bit of advice I have to climbing hold manufacturers is to have a photo of some one holding the hold so people can actually gauge size etc... Only place that seems to do that is crusher holds (a glass of crusher it's tough enough to make milk shake)....

tomtom

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#33 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 09:41:24 am
Stone smith put a Lego man next to their holds for scale....

masonwoods101

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#34 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 10:22:09 am
Since when was that a relatable reference....

rodma

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#35 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 11:03:52 am
Since when was that a relatable reference....
Since you very first played with Lego :shrug:

A little more consistent than someone's hand unless you know what size the hand is, perhaps crusher could take a photo of the hand in question holding a Lego figure for scale :p

tomtom

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#36 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 11:06:55 am

Since when was that a relatable reference....

If you looked on their website - they even had measurements for the Lego man so you could get an idea...

I liked the idea - a bit nicer than leaving a ruler in every shot etc...

masonwoods101

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#37 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 11:44:10 am
A man holding the hold a Lego figure and a ruler....

tomtom

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#38 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 11:53:33 am


I know how the Lego character feels :D

masonwoods101

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#39 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 01:40:00 pm
Short? Angry? Stiff? Green?

tomtom

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#40 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 02:33:03 pm
Short? Angry? Stiff? Green?

Needing a haircut...

masonwoods101

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#41 Re: Holds
February 28, 2015, 03:23:45 pm
The Lego model also seems to have a good understanding of the term 'tops off for topping out'

Probes

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#42 Re: Holds
March 02, 2015, 05:20:07 pm
I bought a few hundred off customholds years back for cliffs barn, pretty decent and a good ££ for resins, not sure how they would fair on a steep board, they were fine for the vert/leaning walls. If you fancied any wooden ones, i do small sets of crimps that are good for... crimping..  :-\
Excellent marketeering.  I've just put in an order for my board.  Been looking for some nice wooden screw-ons...

 :icon_beerchug:   :strongbench:

Will Hunt

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#43 Re: Holds
April 16, 2015, 01:44:10 pm
I'm really enjoying the board, and the wooden holds I got from Probes are luuverly. However the moon board holds I have got are all, without exception, small crimps. This is fine but things are getting a little 1 dimensional. Can anybody recommend a set of slopers that are good to use on a 40 degree board?

a dense loner

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#44 Re: Holds
April 16, 2015, 08:49:22 pm
Pinches Will lots of pinches!

ghisino

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#45 Re: Holds
April 16, 2015, 09:12:34 pm
I agree that on a 40 deg board, without a thumb catch, a true sloper will have Little use.

I'd look at slopey pinches...

So ill make a lovely "chunk" series plus some similar ones.

Other than that I'd look at "comp" holds such as
Xcult
Flathold
Teknik
Artline
Axis
Rokodromo

If you want "juggy slopers" look at hrt

Duma

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#46 Re: Holds
April 16, 2015, 09:21:35 pm
Rokodromo are terrible imo, poor textures, odd shapes, polish quickly.

ghisino

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#47 Re: Holds
April 16, 2015, 09:32:24 pm
Polish quickly: Yes.

But I really love their "bolt on volumes". They are maybe a bit big for a home wall)

 

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