[cha1n]

I was just crimping things that resemble edges whilst I'm waiting for something to finish at work and I realised that I don't keep my fingers perpendicular to the wall whilst crimping.

I rotate my wrist so that the sides of my pinkies are touching the wall. Having not really trained my fingers before, it never occurred to me to think about my hand position but are we agreed that this is abnormal? When I rotate my hand so that my fingers are perpendicular to the wall, it definitely feels like my back three aren't being loaded as much.

I'm thinking that this may be the reason that I get so many ring finger pulley injuries. The 'normal' position (if having your fingers Square to the wall is deemed normal) definitely feels a bit weaker to me. Sort of like my pinkie is doing nothing.

Random observation after 5 years of climbing...

[thekettle]

Might be to do with your pinkie length relative to the other fingers? My pinkie drags when I'm in full crimp position (until the hold is well below shoulder level), to crimp it would rotate my wrist like yours. Is your wrist still rotated in a 4f drag?

[abarro81]

I think that's normal

[cha1n]

Damn, thought I finally had an answer for these recurring injuries.

I have to rotate my wrist very slightly on a 4f drag because of pinky length but I don't have to in crimp/half crimp pos.

Strange because if I had to guess, I would have thought that having your fingers Square to the wall would be normal. I did my first fingerboard session for years on the weekend (with lots of assistance to try and heal a pulley in a controlled manner) and I was keeping my fingers square on then but didn't read up on hand positrons, though I'm not sure that information exists!

[tomtom]

Might be to do with your pinkie length relative to the other fingers? My pinkie drags when I'm in full crimp position (until the hold is well below shoulder level), to crimp it would rotate my wrist like yours. Is your wrist still rotated in a 4f drag?

I think Shark was muttering something about this on last weeks (or week befores) power club - when I was quizzing the nature of the half crimp/chimp...

[cha1n]

I don't think it's necessarily linked to finger length in this case, I think it's more to do with me just picking a hand position that felt the strongest/most comfortable when I first started crimping. That just so happens to be with my wrist rotated, which loads my back three the most (interesting that I've injured pulleys on all fingers except my indexes).

I'm interested to know if most people train the crimp position with their fingers square to the wall or if they rotate their wrists like me. Or perhaps like me; they've never thought about it up until now.

Very keen on doing things right from now on and preventing injuries if possible. Decided to commit to some fingerboarding after putting off since I started climbing.

[mctrials23]

I think finger length has quite a large effect on how you use your fingers in half crimp, dragging etc. I don't know if having them at a slight angle to better accommodate the pinky is a bad thing or not but I thought the general wisdom was that the ring finger gets damaged more because its neighbour is the pinky which doesn't provide my support.

[iwasmexican]

I don't think it's necessarily linked to finger length in this case, I think it's more to do with me just picking a hand position that felt the strongest/most comfortable when I first started crimping. That just so happens to be with my wrist rotated, which loads my back three the most (interesting that I've injured pulleys on all fingers except my indexes).

I'm interested to know if most people train the crimp position with their fingers square to the wall or if they rotate their wrists like me. Or perhaps like me; they've never thought about it up until now.

Very keen on doing things right from now on and preventing injuries if possible. Decided to commit to some fingerboarding after putting off since I started climbing.

Im largely similar, noticed the other day after two days climbing on grit that my mid two tips were completely worn through while my indexes was basically good as new... Have always been pathetically weak relatively on my index too, which got me wondering if it could have something to do with finger length and what you naturally favour without realising?

[Stubbs]

I think that's normal