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A2 injury? (Read 2762 times)

J.Kydd

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A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 12:15:16 pm
Hi chaps,

I'm still very new to the whole world of climbing to please bear with me.
I think I've injured the A2 in my left middle finger, but would like a bit of confirmation from those who know what it actually feels like.

From what I've read, you normally feel it happen, regardless of whether it's a full rupture or a strain - but there was never a 'moment' when it suddenly hurt or tweaked.
If I press/probe the area it's pretty tender, especially so at the front, but also around to the right side of the finger (when looking at the palm). Around to the right, the pain is lesser, but there is what feels like crunchy tissue.

Something that is a little strange though is that first thing in the morning my finger is extremely stiff and painful to move under its own power. After a few minutes of being out bed and moving around that stiffness completely subsides

I've read that A2 pully injury's are most common with long term climbers where the fingers have been subject to a lot of hard crimping - but I've only be climbing regularly for maybe 6 months and am currently climbing at around 6B.

Could it be inflammation in the joint, or does this sound very much like a tendon issue? Is there anyway I could get it confirmed by a doctor? Can they scan it to check?

I've been taping the finger when climbing and half-ignoring the problem (typical "it'll be nothing" hope), but after 2 days on trot at the weekend it was pretty tender yesterday and I don't really want to do anything major

Any advice, experiences or telling off much welcome
Cheers, Josh


tomtom

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#1 Re: A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 12:27:58 pm
OK - when mine have gone I have felt nothing. I've heard it (like someone snapping a biro) but not felt it - it just starts to feel a bit numb and slightly odd in the minutes after...

Feeling stiff then easing off over the day sounds about right too....

Having only climbed 6 months doesnt make you any less susceptible IMHO - probably more so if anything....

Plenty of info online (here and elsewhere) about rehab, but generally its let swelling go, rest it completely for a couple of weeks (with massage to help break up scar tissue), then start using it gently but heavily taped. Learn to open hand and after a few months it should heal up and you can start to crimp again..

J.Kydd

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#2 Re: A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 12:44:06 pm
There was certainly no sound, and I don't get any numbness after climbing - Guess I'd be safe to assume it's not a full rupture?
And there is no swelling at all, not even right after climbing at the weekend?


mctrials23

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#3 Re: A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 01:11:10 pm
I'm nursing one of these back to health at the moment and yours sounds reasonably similar. No particular moment that it went pop.

I found that mine was getting very stiff overnight like you say as well but I have had some good results from taking ibuprofen before bed which seems to really alleviate this.

From my experience, the swelling with these injuring is very minor in the grand scheme of things. I don't know what its like with a full rupture but its barely noticeable on my finger but if you wrap a piece of string around the a2 area on both fingers, the circumference on the damaged one is larger by a few mm.

You should be able to climb with an open hand grip but there are a few things to be aware of.

Depending on your finger lengths, you might find like most people that its almost impossible to properly open hand using four fingers. Middle 3 is fine but adding the pinky brings all the other fingers up into a half crimp.

Be careful about the shape of the holds you are using as they may press on the a2 on the affected hand.

Warm up really thoroughly before doing anything.

Try not to do what I am incapable of which is to see new stuff that you shouldn't be trying and give it a go anyway. Its given me a chance to focus on other aspects of my technique and grips which is something that is easy to ignore when you are fit and healthy and climbing well so take the opportunity to adapt to this an hopefully avoid doing it again.

mrjonathanr

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#4 Re: A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 01:13:23 pm
Briefly...you've bands of ligament behind which your tendons are supported. Degree of damage depends on how many fibres tear.

Is the first pad before the (PIP) joint sore? Yes...you probably have some A2 damage.

That will take some time to heal so give it a full rest for a few days while you learn more. Search the forum. Best of all see a physio.
Good luck.

danm

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#5 Re: A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 07:29:35 pm
I tore an A4 pulley on Sunday, on Monday I saw a physio*. I'd recommend doing the same. I'm resting for a few more days to let the inflammation go down, then it's time to start cold water therapy and some light work on the finger.

* if you don't want/can't afford to see a physio, this is what they did (it's not the same pulley but I expect the same rules apply):

They asked where it hurt (on the pad underneath the finger, between the 2 joints)
They wiggled the joints relative to each other, checking for a fracture in the joint. Hard to do yourself.
They gently bent the finger sideways at each joint, checking for damage to collateral ligaments, again hard to do yourself.
With these other possible injuries ruled out, it was clear it was a mild A4 tear (a full rupture is usually visible as a bowstring job)

Couple of other things - mine made an audible ping when it went but didn't hurt. There is almost no swelling, just some mild soreness generally which is worse if I apply pressure to the finger.

If you are new to climbing, don't mess about, see a physio. Don't make things worse long term, you've got so much to look forward to!

Sasquatch

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#6 Re: A2 injury?
February 10, 2015, 07:40:42 pm
If you are new to climbing, don't mess about, see a physio. Don't make things worse long term, you've got so much to look forward to!
:agree:

J.Kydd

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#7 Re: A2 injury?
February 13, 2015, 03:40:47 pm
Nads.

That's my suspicions pretty well confirmed then, thanks all for your help & advice.
I started the cold water treatment last night, and am massaging the area a couple of times a day too.

Will go for a tentative climb in a week and see how it feels

Cheers

tomtom

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#8 Re: A2 injury?
February 13, 2015, 03:50:30 pm
Bring it back slowly.. gives you a chance to work some other areas/weaknesses..

When I've had a dodgy A2 I've done overhanging juggy shit at walls to build up arms/shoulders/core.. It gets in the way of what you want to do - but every cloud etc...

mrjonathanr

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#9 Re: A2 injury?
February 13, 2015, 05:23:52 pm
Personally I've mummified the finger with tape bent at about 150' for a month or so when I've done an A2

mctrials23

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#10 Re: A2 injury?
February 13, 2015, 05:27:44 pm
How sore is it when you massage it and how hard are you massaging it?

mrjonathanr

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#11 Re: A2 injury?
February 13, 2015, 05:31:44 pm
That's no question to ask a lady  :spank:

J.Kydd

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#12 Re: A2 injury?
February 15, 2015, 05:04:40 pm
How sore is it when you massage it and how hard are you massaging it?

Now it's had a few days rest, there isn't really any pain when massaging it. The vast majority of the crunch is on the right side, with not much at all at the front.
A week ago, it was really very sore with any massage around the A2

mctrials23

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#13 Re: A2 injury?
February 15, 2015, 10:09:17 pm
Sounds pretty much exactly the same as mine. Its been over a month now and it still gets a little angry when I climb hard on it and if I knock it on anything but its pretty much healed now. Ease back into it and climb open handed as much as you can. If you try can ease the half crimp back in on the fingerboard / really easy stuff where you can modulate the amount of force you put through it you should be fine. Just listen to what the finger is telling you pain wise but don't expect it to be completely pain free even when you are using it at nearly full force.


 

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