I know that one of the main things top climbers say is to work you're weaknesses so i am trying to address that at the moment but they don't usually explain why.Is it to make you a better all round climber?I know that fixing weaknesses will ultimately enable you to climb a larger variety of stuff at a certain grade but wouldn't focussing on your strengths push your maximum grade more?
oh I understand that slack line but it won't actually affect your maximum grade will it. You may be able to climb v8 on crimpy routes and only v5 on slopy ones but bringing your sloper strength up to par won't mean you are suddenly climbing v9.That improvement to get to v9 will still be just as hard no?
Cheers for the replies guys, seems like most people just do what I do.I don't necessarily feel like I have plateaued massively, I just want to improve as quickly as I can.
I know that one of the main things top climbers say is to work you're weaknesses so i am trying to address that at the moment but they don't usually explain why.Is it to make you a better all round climber?
I understand that in bodybuilding you eventually compromise your gains if you don't target all areas of your body so is that the same in climbing?I know that fixing weaknesses will ultimately enable you to climb a larger variety of stuff at a certain grade but wouldn't focussing on your strengths push your maximum grade more?
... it is benchmarking every three months or so. If i can get some metric of improvement, its so much easier to motivate myself to keep trying!Why not see how much weight (if any) you need to take off with a pulley set up to one arm hang a one pad edge for 5 seconds - then repeat that every so often to see if you are getting stronger? Or for power endurance you could see how many moves of foot on campussing you can do at a max effort, and then repeat that as a benchmark.
then track % gains in reps, duration, weight added/removed with simple formulae.
Cheers for the replies but how do you plot more than 2 things on a graph?If I am tracking length of hold and weight added against a calendar how does that work? You would also have a graph for every single grip position on every different hold I assume?
Also, although the resistance on the pulley is constant for a given weight it will obviously change if the weight changes. For 50kg it may be an added resistance of 20kg whereas for 20kg it may only be 5kg. Its not likely to be a simple function of the weight added times a percentage.
Cheers for the replies but how do you plot more than 2 things on a graph?If I am tracking length of hold and weight added against a calendar how does that work? You would also have a graph for every single grip position on every different hold I assume?Also, although the resistance on the pulley is constant for a given weight it will obviously change if the weight changes. For 50kg it may be an added resistance of 20kg whereas for 20kg it may only be 5kg. Its not likely to be a simple function of the weight added times a percentage.I may be talking utter crap here but thats my understanding of these things.
Caveat: I love training and almost don't go on rock anymore, I could easily just train, and I don't have to peak at fixed dates for trips and so on, so this makes things easier for me. HTH.
I'm using a petzl one and I did a rough test last night to see what the resistance is. I put 20kg on each side of the pulley and then added weight to one side until it became almost effortless to move the weight down on that side. It was about 5-7kg so it's more like 30%. It's a pulley from about 4 years ago though so oiling it would probably help a lot.
In the meantime perhaps this pulley simulator will allow you to investigate the effect friction at the pulley (i.e. resistance) has on the force required.
Isn't that obvious?
I mean increasing the weight of the assist. I fail to see how I disagreed with myself? 1 arm hang, 1 arm on rope, through pulley, weight on other side. Arm on rope tries to move rope by pulling on it. Friction opposes this motion, which is the equivalent of increasing the assisting weight for a frictionless pulley.
When I do assisted 1 arm hangs (etc)
Sorry Muenchener, but, if you're failing on a 2 arm hang then your body pulls the rope through so it's still the equivalent of more weight...
Not that any of this matters. Hang, try really really hard, reduce the assistance. Pretty much covers it!
Huh? Don't understand. You're right about direction of travel, but we can assume the fail is gradually going downwards in most deadhang situations. What depends on the weight added?Not that any of this matters. Hang, try really really hard, reduce the assistance. Pretty much covers it!