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UKB power club week 259 25th January - 1st February 201 (Read 29164 times)

tomtom

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M: Beatmakerage

T: Work

W: Work

Th: Mild disinterested Beastmaker things...

Fr: Visit to Osteo - told my back flexibility is much improved

Sa: Moderate BM

Su: Decided to try climbing outdoors... went to Hobby Moor - cold, many streaks, but still things do-able. Did about 10 mins worth then my back/hip felt decidedly dodgy/tweaky so beat a retreat home. Despondent beastmaker flagellation.

I need to ease my back into climbing within the warmer, more controlled environment of a wall... Had it been good spring conditions it might be a good option outside, but I need to get used to the movement a bit more first...

mindfull

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Very well tomtom  :2thumbsup:

Goals
January: Max effort strength/power with free weights. Power/Olympic Lifting.
February-March: Building base fitness long distance running. Slow long distance running & Tempo Runs. Heal my shoulder injury.
April-September: Street Run 11K Kortrijk. Climbing/bouldering/training for God Shave the queen. Antwerp marathon.
October-November: Project "God Shave the Queen" (8a)

All week:
- Flexibility
- Tail Chi

MON:
Easy circuitx4
-10 pushups
- 4 chinups
- 5 barbell over head squats (22kg)
After a week of rest, the shoulder injury is still painful. Waiting for a cortisone injection in february :(
TUE:
Rest
WED:
AnPow 80% 1RM
- Squat (5x5)
- Bench Press (5x5)
- Bent Over Row (5x5)
- Shrugs (3x8)
- Pull Over (3x8)
- Pullup (3x5)
- Pushup (3x15)
- Ab Wheel Rollout (3x10)
THU:
Rest
FRI:
Same as WED
SAT:
Rest. Some balancing: Frog Sit/HeadStand/HandStand.
SUN:
Same as WED

fried

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STG - Stay uninjured, get strong ready for the weather to change...

M - Floot stuff - core 40mins
T - Dodgy knee and sciatica, skipped my indoor session and did 45 mins BM (3 sets)
W - Pull ups 3x5 (2sec up, 2 sec down) x3, push up 3x20, core stuff 40mins
Th- planks, side planks, russian twist, dumbbell rows, slow pull ups (10secs up/ 10 down) 45 mins
Fr - Indoor knee still dodgy, so a no falls session, worked some starts on some harder stuff 6C ish, had a surprisingly good session, finished with some weights and then campussed 1-3-5-7 for the first time ever, sure the rails aren't standard. 3h
S - Long walk, plus 30 mins back stretching
Su - Knee O.K indoors, tired quickly, so had a shortish session, worked my 6C up to a new high point, probably the crux. Shoulder stuff. 2h.

Sharkaton done (except one slighly dodgy day), nice to mix up my sessions a bit. I tend to rest a day or 2 between indoor sessions, but I probably should do some core on those days.

Also having breakfast everyday, normal lunch, small dinner (no carbs) has left me feeling more full of energy in the late afternoon when I climb, although my weight seems to have stablised at 76.3kg which is heavy for me....muscle?

Not sure wether to cut down to 2 indoor session and 2 BM per week instead of 3 indoor/ 1 BM.

ummagumma

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STG Climb 4 times per Week
MTG Clean & Climb New project

Mon Rest
Tues BM Finger Strength. 7 on 120 off. 6 Reps, 3 Sets. Weighted .
Wed Rest and push ups
Thurs Indoor Bouldering. Dynamic movement and Power
Fri Rest
Sat  BM Finger Strength. 7 on 120 off. 5 Reps, 3 Sets. Weighted .
Sun Climbed 6A+ and tried 7A+ and 7A. A bit unfocused working the harder problems. Need to get my shit together for max effort attempts.

Progressing. finished a 6 week fingerboard cycle. Feeling stronger and dropping weight. -0.4kg. 73.3kg

csl

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January Goals
V8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board - not done.
3 days out 2/3 - not done
Lose 2kg - done. Lost 3kgs.

Mon
Flu
Tue
Flu
Wed
Fingerboard
6x6 second hangs. New PB. 1 handed on Beastmaker 1 pad edge. -3.75kg.
Some bouldering to warm up + down. Tried to limit it to not get more ill.
Thu
Fri
Arch
Boulders - up to V6ish.
Sat
Ab Ripper X
3x10 pressups
Stretching
AnCap - 8x12 moves on 30 degree system board. Ok session, need to make up harder problem for this.
Sun

Ok week - in raw strength i've gone from needing 7.5kg assistance to hang the 1 pad edge for 6 seconds, to half that. So that at least feels like progress over the last 6 months. Didn't boulder enough to hit my main goal of V8. But will try again in Feb.

February Goals
V8 Indoors or 1-4-7 on the Campus Board
Go to Spain uninjured + stronger than i've been before

shark

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11.10-8

M. Early start. 12 hour journey back from Spain after 7 days climbing. It was only Sharkathon that got me on the fingerboard when I dot back.
T.  Eve. Woodie
W. Lunch. Sleepy - forced myself into shed Pulled on crimps, did some undercutting then 4 goes on AnCap circuit - did Ok - felt fitter. PM AeroCap set of 20/10s
T.  Eve Fingerboard
F.  PM 30 mins at Foundry on auto belay
S. Eve. Woodie
S. Put some crusher crimps on Woodie and also campus rungs for foot-on campausing. Had an hour experimeting with the set up and moves

OK week. Obviously a bit of a comedown after Spain. Might head outside this week to eatswood or Tor or even Malham as not got a lot on

tomtom

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OK week. Obviously a bit of a comedown after Spain. Might head outside this week to eatswood or Tor or even Malham as not got a lot on

I'm about weds > fri if you're getting out.. txt me.

Dolly

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Another week of too much work and not enough climbing


M Went for a run instead of Pilates
T
W Kettlebells at home
T Shed my lovely shed. Had to kick steps to get there -  is that what people mean by winter climbing ? Great post session ache
F Core and a bit of aero at gym
S Cratcliffe. I thought I'd done RZA roof years ago but I hadnt. Did the direct/RH version which is meant to be harder/7b ? not sure it is. Couldnt manage Percy's cornflake. Is it just a big pull to the left hand gaston ?
S Not much. Small walk inn Eccy Woods with M in law

Will Hunt

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Awful week. Felt a bit broken at work for a few days. Stressed and anxious. Didn't do anything other than climbing on Saturday.

Saturday: Phoenix Wall (my style, so not really the point); Pinky Traverse (easy finish); Rachel's Box. Shredded a tip badly on the last problem so that's the wall out of the question until at least the end of the week.

Not a great result.

csl

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Tape up and train anyway?

jfdm

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Hi everyone!

Mon - nothing, rest
Tues- Week 3 Swiss ball core routine - going well / plus beastmaster 5a routine 1 round +4kg and one round + 2.5 kg
Wed - late night at work - school trip that I am organising- meet the parents!
Thurs - repeated Tues
Fri - rest
Sat - Arch - worked circuits - green - almost there some killer moves. Tried white and salmon - well hard.*
Sun - Arch building 1 - faffed around, mainly blue, yellow, worked red cave route which was pretty good for me.

*Big question why do route setters put the cruxes on the down climb on circuit routes? Answers on a postcard!
*good news - rumours new "North Arch" might be near work! :great:

Muenchener

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STG: (March) indoor 7a ROUTE
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle-Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T: Kettlebell TGUs (4), hammer curls, core. Mobility with focus on pec minor / thoracic

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5b 6a 6b 6c 7a+ 6b+ 7a 7a (attempts) 5b warm down
   A step forward for me today: Thalkirchen has a lead wall sector that goes up 17 metres and overhangs about 15. In the four years I've been going there I - shamefully, being easily intimidated by teh steep - never had the bottle to set foot on it. Today I did, and fell turning the lip of the final roof. Falling at the lip of a roof is a situation I find mentally difficult anyway, even when it isn't twenty metres up. yyfy.
   Then interviewed several routes for the post of My Indoor 7a  Project. One of the candidates was successful.

T:   Stair climbing 3 x 40 stories storeys? floors
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. UKB-approved nu skool aerocap: as many moderate blocs as possible with as little rest as possible for an hour.
S: Snowboarding: mate's birthday weekend at a hut at Spitzingsee in the Bavarian Alps. Great snow, good friends.  Heavenly chamois goulash for dinner.
S: M jnr's first complete off-piste descent Sunday morning from the front door of the hut.
   An excellent weekend

Boarding in fresh snow is a fantastic feeling, and I have been contemplating getting a splitboard for a while now, but I heard on the radio on the way home that ten people died in avalanches in Switzerland this weekend. Five of them on an avalanche safety training course. Maybe I should stick to sport climbing.

csl

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*Big question why do route setters put the cruxes on the down climb on circuit routes? Answers on a postcard!

Those arch circuits are weird - usually very cruxy, I guess Yann's too strong to notice!

TobyD

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M - 4 mile run
T -  30 minutes bouldering 10 -12 routes at the foundry, up to 7b
W - hour bouldering, 3-5 move problems on board, 4x4 on 6c-c+ routes
T - pull ups / lock off on bar / rockrings; 30 minute slow run in the snow
F - pull ups, 35 minute run
S - 12 routes up to 7b+ at awesome walls
S - works, few campus ladders, yellow circuit.

kelvin

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T Shed my lovely shed. Had to kick steps to get there -  is that what people mean by winter climbing ? Great post session ache


Great post! So UKB.

Had a right topsy turvy week, stuffed up the knee and my big toes!

STG - Boulder as hard as I can indoors.
MTG - Improve AeroCap  in line with AnCap (tickle along with this at the end of sessions)
LTG - Spain in Oct.

Mon - Rest. Ice knee.

Tue - Woke up, did exercises barefoot on the living room carpet... burns on both big toes!!! What a prat! Struggling to walk after that... small hols? Er, no. Physio to sort knee. Ouch. No bad damage thank goodness, just super inflamed and tight. Told to rest the knee for a few days so - AnCap, smallest campus rail & foot on. 21 reps x 30sec on 90sec off. (25 hand movements). Well chuffed with that.

Wed - Posted on here about training. Largest campus rail, 1min on 1min off - total 16min. Hovered hand over next hold for 3sec each time. Really felt powered out from the day before's session. Iced knee lots.

Thu - Yoga class AM. Yoga class PM. Finally put the fingerboard up!

Fri - Some pullups. Quick boulder. Face on to save the knee and nothing too steep. Up to V3 then worked a long, top end V3 - got a bit further but happy that it went from feeling desperate on the traverse to hardly needing to hold on.

Sat - Knee inflamed, lots of ice and massage. Lots of pullups spread over the day on the new fingerboard. Maybe almost 50? Actually managed 3 consecutive from full extension, felt strong (for me).

Sun - 10° face on. Worked on pinches, small edges and weighting feet properly. Worked some V4/5s and got a move further on all of them. Managed to find a way around being too short to statically do one move on a V4 that's stopped me for two weeks - really pleased with this, as I still managed it statically with just one tweak of a foot. Knee like a balloon after but a great session. Some pullups.

The knee's not great, more chuffed I didn't just plough on and really wreck it tho - most unlike me. The big toe burns are annoying however, can't believe  I did it. Just sleepily thought I'd get some exercise out of the way when I woke up as it was the first day off in 16 days. Doh.
The thread I posted on here, it'll help I'm sure. Made plans to put some of the advice into action, tweaked some of the stuff I was already doing - I even found myself on the phone to a previously unknown UKBer who offered help and advice.

The AnCap session on Tuesday surprised me but it highlights the fact I need to keep ticking away at the aerocap. Been trying hard in the boulder room all week despite the knee, face on as needs be and managing to get further almost every session on V4/5. There's still a couple of V2/3s that needed ticking but with the knee how it is, I won't be on them again.

The Crusher rail is up tho and I'm popping a couple of pullups out every time I walk through the kitchen - this can only help.

All in all, despite the tweaked knee, it feels like another good week - in all aspects.

Oh yeah! Booked the ferry for Spain!  :yes:

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stg - train
mtg - New local routes
ltg - Unknown now.  doesn't look like any trips to smith will be scheduled for now, so To bolt is out for this year. 

M - rest
T - yoga, FB - pretty good session.  new PB on middle two fingers. strength work as well
W - rest
Th - yoga
F - FB-Repeaters - good session.  Added 10lbs across the board compared to previous Saturday set. Progress on strength work as well
S - rest
S - FB - Repeaters - good session. 

Simple but effective training week.  Good thing as work drama has been driving me nuts.

tomtom

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Kelvin, I had really bad blisters (effectively mild burns) from playing 5 a side barefoot on warm concrete once (think near whole surface of sole of feet).. it actually healed really fast (3-4 days..)... and after a day or two of agony was OK...

JackAus

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STG: Another V7.
MTG: V8
LTG: V11

Shitty weather all week so fuck all work and most of the local rock was wet...

M: Sissy. Bunch of stuff up to V4. Nearly did a V6, fell off the last move a bunch of times (weird dyno to a baaad sloper). And worked Rebel Scum V7 again, I think backwards progress from last time but its only 4 moves... It's just the last move... Did something to my wrist that wasn't good. Wasn't a sudden thing though.
T: Indoors. Easy bouldering and finger boarding. Tiny bit of campussing. Wrist is worse.
W: Gym. Wrist has been getting worse. Couldn't even do a push up without immense pain.
T: Indoors. Wrist abit better. No pinches or slopers on left hand.
F: Big work day. Ran up nearly 600m of ladder. Indoors after I think. Add ons. Made some awesome hard moves. Wrist is abit better.
S: Trenches. Stiff grades there. Had never been there before. Bunch of stuff up to V4 including a wicked big double dyno backwards out of a cave...
S: Northern Beaches day. Whale blocks and Palm Beach boulders. A few things up to V3. Put up a couple new problems. Nice swim next to Palm Beach boulders.

Busy week training. Haven't been able to push it because of my wrist but it's getting better now.
Thought I had a rest day but I guess not.

kelvin

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Kelvin, I had really bad blisters (effectively mild burns) from playing 5 a side barefoot on warm concrete once (think near whole surface of sole of feet).. it actually healed really fast (3-4 days..)... and after a day or two of agony was OK...

Cheers Tom - down to a couple of 20p sized scabs now :-) and good to see you had a crack at getting outside.

the_dom

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Mon: 40 min trail run

Tues: Weights and leg rehab exercises

Wed: Hangboard - 1 arms and repeaters, 100+ pushups

Thurs: 40 min trail run

Fri: 5am hangboard session - 1 arms and repeaters

Sat: Bouldering - ticked two 7Bs and two 7As. Really good day. 5km walk in the evening. Ate terribly and drank too much though.

Sun: Bouldering - ticked another 7A and a 7B, but failed on a 7B+. I blame the hangover.

All in all, a decent week. Managed to survive sharkathon.

gme

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Mon- enforced rest due to work.
Tues- ditto. Third rest day in a row.
Wed- Bouldering Alnwick moonboard. Felt really good due to rest i guess. Repeated all of the problems i can do and did a new 7A in a session.
Thurs- tried to boulder again but too much so stopped after 40 mins. Felt like i was going to break.
Fri- rest from climbing but had two hours surfing though. Perfect session on my own, overhead waves, left reef, snow on the beach. Magic.
Sat- 1 1/2 hrs on moonboard. Great session again with yet more progress.  Then 5/10 FB session with big improvements.
Sun- Vinyasa yoga 45 mins.

First week since the new year where i have failed to stick to my plan. Work starting to get in the way with a few 14hr days. Managed to keep the bouldering up to three sessions even though one was pretty poor. Firm believer that the bouldering is by far the most important part of the plan and should be the last thing to be dropped. All the FB/core/aerocap stuff comes second and should never substitute an hour on the board.

The two good sessions I had bouldering were as strong as i have have been this year so i guess the rest was good.

This weeks going to be even worse I think as I am in Holland wed-sat with work so no access to climbing and also beer and food consumption will go up.

cheque

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STG- Finish film without becoming crap at climbing, find a way to do decent volume of training without getting injured.

MTG- New grades this year.

LTG- 9b+

M- Rest.

T- Pullups, pushups, clean-and-press, shoulder shrugs.

W- Pullups and pushups.

T- Notts Depot. New yellows. Yellows are hard for me and often require bearing down on small flat egdes/ nonpositive pinches- the danger holds for the finger problems I battled with for the whole of 2014. I've avoided them for more than a year but my fingers feel almost normal since I've understood the roots of the problem and have performed rehab religiously. Warm up well and get stuck in- the problems start going down. Offwidth (a man who I know loves being named and shamed on this forum  ;) ) arrives and we chat about my two favourite subjects (my film and Black Rocks in general) = 15 minutes stood still in freezing cold with only a t-shirt (and trousers and climbing shoes obviously) on. Despite immediately acknowedging that I need to totally warm back up before I get back on the yellows I just do three star jumps and two easier problems with my jumper on before recommencing.  ::) Familiar tweak on left middle finger.

F- Rest. Depressed about finger all day. Video editing in the evening- got very psyched.

S-  Nothing. Ate a lot. Rubbed finger a lot.

S- Nothing. Watched Ice hockey. For the Notts resident it's a surreal sporting event-capacity crowd with a positive attitude and victory almost guaranteed! Rubbed finger all day.

Feels terrible to have tweaked my finger again- obviously I climbed hard when I was cold but my fingers were also feeling a bit stiffer over the preceding week, which I can only put down to doing more volume of training and not doing the bit of my rehab that's meant to sort my posture out. I need to get one of these back-roller thingies I think.

Understanding the cause of my problem is good though- when I did my daily stretching after the wall on Thursday my finger immediately felt better and rubbing it to increase the bloodflow helps too. Going to go to the wall on Thursday and see how it feels on easier stuff.

JohnM

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Not been posting in Power Club for a while but I am in a more regimented training phase so it helps to write things down.

10 st 5 lb
STG: Stay injury free, Brean Topping.
MTG: Fisheye, Oliana.
LTG: Big wall/hard multipitch, 8A/+ boulder problem (bloc style < 10 moves), UK 8b+/c, live in Spain.

Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Boulder 4x4s (~8 moves) - V6 (failed on second one but finished the 4 after some attempts), V4 x 2 sets and a V3 set.
Thursday: AM - Long endurance circuits (60 - 80 moves, 7c - 8a).  1 x 60 moves, 2 x 80 moves.  PM - 2x2s/4x4s on routes - 7c + 7a+ (wanted to do 2 X 7cs but was wrecked after 1), 7b x 4 and 7a+ x 4.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Portland - 6b, 6c, 8a (6c into a 7B/+ boulder problem), 7c. 
Sunday: Westway board - V8, V7, V7, V6, V5.  Systems board X 10 (3 min rests) - Completed set but was too tired to complete many moves for each grip type.  Was meant to do repeaters but didn't bother.  Theraband and stretching.

T_B

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86.6Kg

STG - get below 85Kg by 7 March.

M - Lunch. Short campus session in the Foundry. Couldn't do 1-4-7, which is pretty dire for me. Heavy. P.M. Works - mainly comp wall problems for a change.
T - Drove to Scotland for work.
W - Crap weather, so Ice Factor. Half a dozen ice routes, then same on plastic up to 7a+.
T - Walked into the Ben on a poor forecast, so didn't get committed on anything.. in the event it was a mega day :'( Observing clients. Ankle good, but tweaked lower back.
F - Bad back so drove home.
S - Bad back but improving
S - Back improving

Have returned from Scotland committed to getting light/fit for the spring. Start training prog this week. Re-tweaked my 4-year old back injury, but seems to be sorting itself out quickly.

galpinos

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In an attempt to get up to and surpass previous highpoints post illness and to add a a little more structure I’ve decided to join Power Club.

STG
•   Don’t let life get in the way too much
•   Stick to the plan
•   Back up to previous highpoint, 7A in short order, 7B with effort

M – Wall session, multiple problems up to “V8”, softest grades at the wall yet
T – Short run, 4 miles @ 7min/mile ish
W – BM: 35 Deg Repeaters followed by JWI Week 2 Ab session
T – Wall session, more problems to V6, felt tried after the BM session on Weds
F – Skipped the track session to go out for pizza with family and friends
S – Nothing
S – Crack School at Leeds Wall. Really good, made me realise I what I am good at (just need to be confident and relax) and what I’m rubbish at (parallel fingers), just need to make sure I remember and use what I have learnt in the real world. Managed there and back on the crack machine – chuffed.

 

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