[Stu Littlefair]

Dear UKB collective. Last Thursday I had a particularly hard session at the wall. Ever since I've been getting bad cramps down the inside of my forearms, on the side of the little finger.

I get them when I climb, but also at night and when I use a keyboard or mouse. Since its been over a week it's getting annoying now, especially since I'm supposed to be winning the BIFF tomorrow evening.

Has anyone experienced anything similar? If so, any tips for making it go away?

Ta.

[Luke Owens]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24988.0.html

May be similar to something I get? I find I have to rest a lot for it to not become so much of an issue, which isn't really a solution. My recovery between sessions is terrible.

I ended up going to the docs and I've been referred to a specialist but still waiting for that to happen...

One strange thing I've noticed is that it effects my route performance in a dramatic (bad) way. But I seem to be able to boulder at my max but just not being able to withstand a long session. This led me to believe it's something possibly more specific to aerobic capacity/capillary size, but I'm a complete punter and have no proper idea on what's wrong...

As for making it go away, I find if I warm up longer than usual and stretch loads/massage I can get a decent session in.

[fatdoc]

Sports physio would be a good starting point, after the customary rest, laying off footless comps etc....
http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=a00069

[Stu Littlefair]

Thanks fatdoc- it doesn't look that link isn't relevant to my issues. I don't have nerve pain but actual physical cramps that make my fingers curl up and muscle spasms.

[Stu Littlefair]

Interesting thread Luke, thanks. I hope you get good news from the specialist. Im almost the opposite to you - it's effecting my strength a lot but I don't have the bad pump you have and my endurance is unaffected.

[TobyD]

Hi Stu, I'd suggest try doing some resisted wrist extensions in ulnar deviation; ie lift something up with wrist eg water bottle, can of coke with whole forearm supported, elbow at 90 degrees towards the little finger side. These symptoms may be due to a number of things, but do ou have any pins and needles, numbness or other unusual tingly type sensations in that hand / finger? Impinging the motor nerve might cause something like this. Happy to give it a look if you want. Probably not gonna help for tomorrow night though. you'll crush anyway.

[Stu Littlefair]

Cheers Toby. I've had no tingly feeling or puns and noodles. I've got cramp in both arms though.

[Stu Littlefair]

Also for archival purposes; have since found that ulnar nerve compression can cause cramping so that might be back on the cards.

[measles23]

I get ulnar nerve compression..
You can have the nerve transposed near the elbow to take the stretch off it - the other option my orthopod offered me was to detach the common flexor tendon (where most of the forearm flexors insert at the elbow)  - I politely declined!
First step is nerve conduction studies to confirm how bad it is..

[krymson]

i had something possibly similar but probably less severe - numbness/tingliness down the outside of my elbow to the pinky.

after looking around i found advice to keep my arms straighter while sleeping and while using the computer - this involved repositioning my mouse/keyboard.

I followed the advice and haven't had it since, knock on wood.

[fatdoc]

Also for archival purposes; have since found that ulnar nerve compression can cause cramping so that might be back on the cards.

I think this most likely

[tomtom]

Hi Stu,
You mentioned this might be tied into lots of keyboard/desk work too...? I've had RSI-ish crampy arms in the past through excessive mouse use (drawing diagrams on screen etc..) and taught myself to use my LH for the mouse - and then swap as necessary..

A colleague (prof in History) now dictates all his writing - and emails etc.. using one of the dictation packages - which he thinks is great and works well (he is a techno luddite so this surprised me..)...
Tom

[JJP]

Hi Stu

I had a similar problem, but just in my right arm.  Would similarly get cramping involving ulnar side of the forearm affecting the little and ring finger.

I used a combo of golfers elbow type eccentric forearm exercises (with wrist ulnar deviated as suggested above by TobyD), a massage device and ulnar nerve stretches that a physio has shown me previously and it cleared up pretty quickly.  It does come back now and again.

Hope it clears up.  Jonny

[JJP]

PS - Similar to tomtom I have retrained to use my mouse left handed.

[Stu Littlefair]

Thanks so much for all the replies. The more I read the more ulnar nerve compression fits all the symptoms.

Lots I can do though; my muscles are tight all through my neck and upper back so getting that released will help, plus my work and sleeping positions are lousy.

Thanks for the suggested exercises too.  Jonathan - are these similar to the stretches you got from your physio?

[Eliasn]

I had pretty intense cramps in both of my forearms last summer after doing loads of climing and heavy lifting at work. I initially thought that the problem was in the cramping muscles, ie the upper part of my forearms, tried stretching those muscles with no effect. Went to the physio, who said that the issue was in the flexors of the underarm, the belly of the underarm. Them being too tight/overused all of the time caused the extensors to cramp/activate in order to compensate.

She recommended some simple stretches, hands on the ground while on all four, straight arms, spread your fingers, rotate your elbow pits(?) forward, then lean slightly forward to put some weight on your wrists. Worked wonders for me, cleared up in a week or so.

[JJP]

Hi Stu

Those are not the ones I was shown but presumably do a similar job.

These are pretty similar to what I have been doing (have never embedded before so apologies if this does not work!).  The url is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Pwi8piDXMQ.



Jonny

[fatdoc]

There is a serious truck load of therapy before considering surgery.....

You don't go to a butchers to buy fish, don't go to a surgeon...

[TobyD]

There is a serious truck load of therapy before considering surgery.....

You don't go to a butchers to buy fish, don't go to a surgeon...

Agreed. You'd have to be suffering serious defecits before even considering it. A relatively small drop in power... is obviously annoying but I'd consider impingement at C8/T1, brachial plexus, elbow, wrist, and get it checked out clinically by a therapist, which I'm sure you'll probably do anyway. Bon chance. 

[fatdoc]

 

And forearm soft tissue impingement... From flexor compartment. Not common, neither are climbers forearms.

[Doylo]

Don't get me started on forearms 

[fatdoc]

Throw some TFCC in for the lads.