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stretching for climbing (Read 28214 times)

SA Chris

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#50 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 12:07:52 pm
So on this trip to bishop, you know the one where I did Mandala, Megos was there working Lucid and about 4-5 of us were having a play on Evilution.  He was giving all of us shit because we were all having to jump our foot up to the start hold, and it's a very glassy precise foot.  And here's this guy who's a good 3 inches shorter than all of us, and he just reaches his foot up and places it precisely on the hold, then pulls off the ground. 

Is Megos short? I got the imprerssion he was tall from the vids.

There's also a degree of active flexibilty here. For high feet, i can physically manhandle my foot on to hold but not actively lift my foot to it.

That sounds like a core strength / control issue too?

galpinos

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#51 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 12:31:13 pm
That sounds like a core strength / control issue too?

Probably. I've started on jwi's path to the core of a legend and have added some exercises to my wall sessions to recreate the movement as well as prenty of flexible hip stuff. I'm still shit though........

galpinos

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#52 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 12:37:20 pm
So, with all the talk of opening/flexible hips, how do you get them.

(I don't have access to weights so FD's suggestion is half negated)

rodma

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#53 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 12:48:08 pm
So, with all the talk of opening/flexible hips, how do you get them.

(I don't have access to weights so FD's suggestion is half negated)

overhead squats, full depth (so bum all the way down), no need for extra weight, you'll still be walking funny for a few days, unless you are a machine

a dense loner

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#54 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 12:55:12 pm
I do quite a lot of stretching but you wouldn't know it to watch me, caveat I've only been concentrating on hips a couple of weeks rather than general stuff.
1) periformis either sit or lie and put opp knee to shoulder.
2)Lunge and pull back leg to butt.
3)Frog stretch, knees on floor as far as poss with shins straight behind them and push back arse as far as poss.
4)Deep squat, then as wide as poss doing same.
5)Butterfly stretch obviously.
6)box splits, but pathetically

Hehe the best ones I've been shown are best done in private
A) half baby, lie on back and bring one leg up bent. Grab hold of that foot and try and rest that thigh on ground next to your chest, keeping your shin vertical
B) full baby, same but both legs at same time. You now look ridiculous

Loads more but that's the bulk of it

tomtom

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#55 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:19:37 pm

So, with all the talk of opening/flexible hips, how do you get them.

(I don't have access to weights so FD's suggestion is half negated)

overhead squats, full depth (so bum all the way down), no need for extra weight, you'll still be walking funny for a few days, unless you are a machine

Like this?


rodma

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#56 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:25:40 pm
Oui oui

SA Chris

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#57 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:28:28 pm
assuming I have a functioning back

You ever contemplated if the current state of your back might be due to lack of flexibility / stretching.

I've got an old lower back injury, and I definitely feel it playing up if I have been doiing a lot of exercise and haven't done any stretching for a while.

tomtom

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#58 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:40:20 pm
assuming I have a functioning back

You ever contemplated if the current state of your back might be due to lack of flexibility / stretching.


Yes - quite possibly.. Though I suspect its more down to bad posture at desks and when driving.. I probably spend > 40 hours a week at the former and 10  the latter..

Pre-injury, my back was (I thought) quite flexible - but my hamstrings/hips were not... I now await someone to tell me its all linked...

lagerstarfish

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#59 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:49:30 pm
it's all linked

invoice in the post

andy_e

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#60 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:51:58 pm


See 0:40-0:50 especially.

Schnell

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#61 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:54:05 pm
it's all linked

It's definitely all linked. I used to get a mega stiff lower back and spent ages trying to stretch before realising it was my tight glutes and hamstrings that were causing it. No more lower back pain these days.

tomtom

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#62 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:55:14 pm
it's all linked

invoice in the post

andy_e gets the wad for that. His answer was better than yours :p

lagerstarfish

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#63 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 01:59:53 pm
I still want fucking paying

tomtom

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#64 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 02:09:38 pm
I still want fucking paying

Back off - or I'll set my legal department onto you (he owes me a pint still..)

Sasquatch

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#65 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 04:23:53 pm
I still want fucking punching

I thought you said this.....

lagerstarfish

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#66 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 04:30:12 pm
probably more likely to happen than what I wanted

galpinos

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#67 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 04:47:31 pm
Rodma and Dense, cheers for the pointers, I shall research and work on opening up these hips......

chris j

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#68 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 04:51:52 pm

Yes - quite possibly.. Though I suspect its more down to bad posture at desks and when driving.. I probably spend > 40 hours a week at the former and 10  the latter..

Pre-injury, my back was (I thought) quite flexible - but my hamstrings/hips were not... I now await someone to tell me its all linked...

The mobilitywod bloke's Supple Leopard book will tell you how sitting down lots is the root of all evil and give you lots of ways to smash your glutes with a massage ball and stretch them out to sort out all sorts of back issues and range of motion problems...

Falling Down

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#69 Re: stretching for climbing
February 05, 2015, 09:59:07 pm
Rodma and Dense, cheers for the pointers, I shall research and work on opening up these hips......

Do you remember we were up at the Roaches doing those problems under Babbacombe Lee? I was able to get my heel up near my shoulder and use it... That was after doing loads of squats.  It's definately in the lateral hips rather than being able to touch toes etc. 

If you don't have a bar then wall squats are just as good...

fatneck

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#70 Re: stretching for climbing
February 06, 2015, 11:09:40 am

mindfull

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#71 Re: stretching for climbing
February 06, 2015, 11:49:38 am

Oldmanmatt

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#72 Re: stretching for climbing
February 06, 2015, 04:03:09 pm

Another Meta, on static stretching.
Again posted after a skim only, as I'm at work.
(Even though this stuff IS my work now, people keep talking to me, sending me emails, phones keep ringing, or people are breaking things, so reading has to wait until Duvet O'clock...)

http://www.faculty.mun.ca/dbehm/EJAP_review_Behm_and_Chaouachi_2011.pdf

slackline

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#73 Re: stretching for climbing
February 06, 2015, 05:08:07 pm

Another Meta, on static stretching.
Again posted after a skim only, as I'm at work.
(Even though this stuff IS my work now, people keep talking to me, sending me emails, phones keep ringing, or people are breaking things, so reading has to wait until Duvet O'clock...)

http://www.faculty.mun.ca/dbehm/EJAP_review_Behm_and_Chaouachi_2011.pdf

I might read it in depth (but might not since I'm busy and have an injury prevention book to keep me busy) but a quick skim read and they show the effect sizes as percentage changes and I have a strong dislike for using percentage changes to quantify differences as its a very poor metric.

There are statistical issues, such as it having low statistical power relative to directly comparing post intervention/activity measurements and adjusting for baseline.  But most people won't be interested since they're boring statistical details.

More practically though and perhaps easier to understand is that taking the mean of percentage change from baseilne just doesn't make sense....

Consider a subject whose pre measurement (on whatever you are measuring it doesn't matter) is 100 and their post measurement is 150, thats +50% change.  Take someone else whose pre measurement on the same scale is 150 and their post measurement is 75, thats a -50% change.  Take the arithmetic mean of the percentage change and what do you have? 0% change since its calculated as (50 + -50) / 2.

The mean pre-treatment was  (100 + 150) / 2 = 125
The mean post-treatment was (150 + 75) / 2 = 112.5

Further what a percentage change of a given amount means will be highly dependent on the starting value of any given individual.  Someone who starts on 25 and has a +50% change will have an end-point value of 37.5 (an increase of 12.5 units), whilst someone who starts on 100 and has a +50% change will have an end-point change of 150 (an increase of 50 units, four times that of the person who started on 25).

Obviously these are simplified and hypothetical examples and you might expect all changes to be in the same direction, but thats no excuse for using a poor approach.  I've been obliged to do analysis in this manner for a clinical trial looking at the effect of bisphosphonates on peripheral bone mineral density in women with osteoarthritis and made it very clear to the chief investigator what the problems are.   He chose to ignore me and insisted on having his analysis done this way.  I refused to be a co-author on the paper.

A more appropriate approach would be to express the post-treatment value relative to the pre-treatment value as a proportion of the standard deviation, but I shan't bore people with the details, just felt it worth highlighting the shortcomings of focusing too heavily on percentage change as it can be misleading.  Theres some more information on Vanderbilt University Biostatistics page if anyone is interested in further reading.

Oldmanmatt

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#74 Re: stretching for climbing
February 06, 2015, 06:12:21 pm
Thanks Slackers😄.

Though that might be longer than the paper...

Three guesses what kind of coursework I'm doing today?

Anyone?

http://www.gytk.sote.hu/gyki/Oktatok/Horpet/Bozot_suggested_article.pdf


 

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