[weakdave]

My  is shocking but i find stretching really boring. Does anyone have any alternative stretching routines that will keep me interested and flex me up?

[tomtom]

My  is shocking but i find stretching really boring. Does anyone have any alternative stretching routines that will keep me interested and flex me up?

I find watching videos of attractive people doing yoga interesting.

But like you I find stretching rather dull.. I do a few mins then just make sure I do lots and lots of easy problems (stretch whilst climbing as it were..).

[dunnyg]

Stick a tv show/ted talk/film on and multitask works for me (a bit)

[Will Hunt]

What exercises should we be doing? Particularly core and shoulder as these aren't the ones you learn in PE where everything seems to be about arms and legs.

[Dexter]

Stick a tv show/ted talk/film on and multitask works for me (a bit)

totally agree with this, I aim for about a 30 min episode of something to give a decent amount of stretching.

Regarding what I usually aim for legs as these make the most difference in climbing
theres some on the beastmaker site here http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/neds-flexy-madness
other things I'd aim for are hip flexors and glutes

[lagerstarfish]

subscribe to (NSFW) perfectflex.com (NSFW)

that should motivate you

[hstmoore]

subscribe to (NSFW) perfectflex.com (NSFW)

that should motivate you

wasn't sure what NSFW stands for, clicked on the link at work... now know what it stands for.

[mrjonathanr]

Surely yoga is the answer?

[weakdave]

Perfectflex.com should be NSFWWINTYOS (not suitable for when wife is next to you on sofa)😊

[weakdave]

Are there any decent free yoga downloads? I cant access youtube when i am away with work.

[jfdm]

Are there any decent free yoga downloads? I cant access youtube when i am away with work.

I am using yoga studio app - think that it is pretty good
http://yogastudioapp.com
15 minutes stretching routines, plus longer ones
Beginner and more advanced routines
Balance, strength and more general routines.
Download content to iPad.


Was a few £'s on iTunes.


Hit play and follow routines - nice and easy!

[weakdave]

Is a similar android version available?

[jfdm]

Is a similar android version available?

Hi Dave, sorry don't know that.
Think it might be apple only.
Will have a look and get back to you.
Maybe somebody on ukb has an android version?

[mrjonathanr]

Yoga done correctly will make you flexible, 6000 years of refinement should ensure that.

I don't think great flexibility tallies with great climbing most of the time. I think it does with good health as you age though.

[hamsforlegs]

Brad Appleton is a software engineer who for some reason has put together a comprehensive stretching resource and manual. I've seen lots of coaches (S&C coaches, not climbing) reference this a great resource.

http://www.bradapp.com/docs/rec/stretching/

There's loads in there if you really want to get stuck in. Check the section on 'Stretching to Increase Flexibility':
http://www.bradapp.com/docs/rec/stretching/stretching_5.html#SEC60

He basically suggests that you do a little bit of stretching every day, with more intensive work every other day. After 2 months he thinks you will be maxed out. The document contains lots of very specific detail on how to stretch in different ways and for different purposes.

Personally I've found that 10 minutes every climbing session and a bit more once per week makes a huge difference, and seems to make my hams, hips and knees much less prone to tweaks. Not sure it improves performance as such, apart from maybe on high-stepping frog moves where there's a definite correlation. Quite a bit of my stretching is based on movement/ mobility drills with a focus on hips - I haven't properly tested, but always feel that this is the stuff that makes the biggest day-to-day impact.

[jwi]

"Ya, we're not big into stretching.  I'm super in-flexible. There are situations where flexiblility matters, but the vast majority of the time I think it pales in comparison to finger strength and footwork. It's probably a good idea to stretch a bit in the interest of maintaining your existing flexibility, since your flexibility decreases as you age.  Actually I think climbing is pretty good "active stretching" in its own right, so you might be ok without dedicating time to stretching."

I'm thinking is that Mr Andersson never been to Buoux... or any other classic pied-main-crag.

Btw, have you noticed how much more often the new generation (especially the elite in the world cup) use really high foot holds, even on steep rock, than climbers in our generation do?

[standard]

not as comprehensive as the above link, but it has pictures and is pretty funny to read.
http://www.trickstutorials.com/index.php?page=content%2Fflx3

[krymson]

Was looking at the koala pictures and wondering why OP was answering himself... and then realized there are two ukbers who indpendently decided to use koalas as icons.

I've been doing yoga consistently for about 2 months now , one to three times a week. I was doing it for my shoulders and posture, but a major side effect is that my flexibility is miles better than when I started. i dont know if flexibility is essential for climbing but it doesnt hurt.

The cool thing about yoga is that it seems to give more active flexibility which is the more useful kind. Since it also helps with posture etc. I'd say it's a much better use of your time than dedicated stretching. plus it feels good to do, so a lot easier to stick with long term.

worst case scenario you're in class with a bunch of hot chicks in spandex. best case scenario you have better flexibility, posture, and a hot yoga girlfriend.

[SA Chris]

Stretching to improve flexibility?
Stretching as a warm up / warm down?
Stretches to adress muscular imbalances / improve posture?

I think they all need something different.

[jfdm]

I posted this on andy_e's question about foam roller.
Thought it might be of use here too

A good place to start is look at anything by Kelly Starrett.
http://www.mobilitywod.com/episodes/page/7/
There is a load of stuff on youtube as well as a few books.

He is massive in us, regarding stretching/ mobility, cross-fit etc.
He has performed in the US Olympic team in the canoe.
So knows a thing or two about stretching/training.

The foam roller is used mainly to aid recovery/stretch.
Although like you when you roll you i do seem to engage the core.


Don't have anything specific for climbing though.


Hope this helps


jfdm

[Oldmanmatt]

This Meta study may be the final nail in the coffin of stretching for any reason beyond maintaining flexibility.

http://blogs.bmj.com/bjsm/2014/07/20/exercises-to-prevent-sports-injuries-lots-of-talk-but-do-they-work/

Not read the paper yet but this synopsis is fairly clear.

[slackline]

This Meta study may be the final nail in the coffin of stretching for any reason beyond maintaining flexibility.

http://blogs.bmj.com/bjsm/2014/07/20/exercises-to-prevent-sports-injuries-lots-of-talk-but-do-they-work/

Not read the paper yet but this synopsis is fairly clear.

Thats a letter in response to an original article which is a meta-analysis and can be found at....

http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/48/11/871.full?sid=19efc261-b870-4eaa-88c0-31fda65de99f

The synopsis of this letter, which is calling into question the conclusion the authors of the meta-analysis state, is that there isn't sufficient evidence to say either way whether stretching has benefits.  From the letter (emphasis is mine)...

Was it a nail in the coffin for stretching exercises? Stretching did not prevent injuries, whether done before or after training. However, this analysis included only two studies on army recruits and one internet-based study on the general population, so more data are badly wanted.2-4 Stretching may serve other purposes, and it may still be relevant for the upper extremity, but NOT for injury prevention of lower extremity exercises. It may be helpful in specific cases if there has been a previous injury. But today, there is no evidence supporting stretching for injury prevention.

Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence!  For strength training they included 23 studies which gives a far larger body of evidence to assess the effects.  To say that the two assessments (strength and stretching) are equal would be wrong.

Complete aside, but the forest plots and meta-analysis conducted in the original paper used program for Stata (statistical software) that my current line manager wrote.

(I've added the reference to the Wiki and the sticky thread on articles training & resources in this sub-forum).

[a dense loner]

I've found, for me, the most overlooked aspect of climbing whether outdoors or indoors, even on a 50 degree board, is the pretty in your face fact that all the good/best climbers have very flexible hips! It's only taken me 20 yrs to work this out!!! 
Maybe since most of them say they're not very flexible etc. They are and it makes a world of difference

[Oldmanmatt]

I've found, for me, the most overlooked aspect of climbing whether outdoors or indoors, even on a 50 degree board, is the pretty in your face fact that all the good/best climbers have very flexible hips! It's only taken me 20 yrs to work this out!!! 
Maybe since most of them say they're not very flexible etc. They are and it makes a world of difference

Ed Gow-Smith, our local and tres youthful cranking machine, has the flexibility of a Rugby post.

Bugger just Campuses through anything that might require a high step...

Edit.

On a serious note.
I find that I seem to remain rather flexible, despite not regularly stretching.
I wonder if it is more a Genetic thing, at it's core, than a matter of training?
Being flexible has not prevented me from injuring myself, that much I am sure of.
Of course, perhaps there would have been many more injuries, had I been less supple.

[Sasquatch]

I've found, for me, the most overlooked aspect of climbing whether outdoors or indoors, even on a 50 degree board, is the pretty in your face fact that all the good/best climbers have very flexible hips! It's only taken me 20 yrs to work this out!!! 
Maybe since most of them say they're not very flexible etc. They are and it makes a world of difference

I'd agree with this.  its a very specific flexibility in the hips and often shoulders as well.