[FlorianD]

Hey !

I only posted here a long time ago, about the beastmaker. Well I bought the beast, trained from time to time on it. This summer, I decided to raise up my training, by doing two to three sessions on it a week. I started to improve the difficulty of the holds, and suddenly, a pain in the right ring finger. I had the exact same on the left hand a year ago, on a nasty crimp at Bleau. Last year, I slowly went back to climbing and it was ok after two months on tape and calm. It was in august... This year I managed the thing really bad, by moving to another town and trying new gyms, or drunkenly crimping on doors. Tss. So I decided to take January and even if needed February of rest. Taping just to remember not to stress the finger.

But here are my questions, considering that except this, I'm at the best athleticism level I've ever been. Lock-off, core strength, etc. Can I keep on training the upper body, pull up and lock off etc, even with this ? The tension on the fingers while locking isnt too hard ? If so, is there a way to keep those muscle strong ?
Also, one of my weakness is flexibility. I haven't really check the forum for this (though I'll do so as soon as I'll send this), but what is your favorite exercises for legs flexibility (hips are OK, back of the leg is shit) ? In how long can I expect improvement ?

Thanks for the reading and the thoughts you might give me !

[a dense loner]

You can do all that with your core as you say. If you're trying new gyms just climb on the probs that don't stress the finger. Ie if it hurts to crimp do loads of slopey probs. Give the finger a little rest of a few wks before climbing and start massaging it to break down the scar tissue.
If your hips are flexible I find it strange that flexibilitys an issue. But for hamstrings, feet shoulder width apart bend your knees and put your chest on your thighs, not like you're in Wigan, and use your legs to come back up. Stop and hold at the point where your chest wants to leave your thighs. Repeat ad infinitum

[jwi]

For flexibility: the sky is the limit. I don't know how useful it would be to spend all the time required to be flexible as a contortionist...

Other than that, what dense said

[Tommy]

I try to think that all pulley injuries are for a good reason - whether they are ordained by God or by your inner self. Personally, I think it's every climber's message to take up crack climbing. Blessed are thy ring rocks my son.

[Muesli]

A couple of flexibility related links from the wiki


Flexibility

[/color]Ned Feehally - Flexy Madness
   
Rich Simpson - Flexibility and Stretching Intro


I found both pretty helpful.[/b][/color][/size]