[Schnell]

I'm not much good at home stuff so bear with me on this. I've been trying to figure out the best way to mount a finger board in the new rented place. I had a free standing frame for a while but it was shit. I got permission to drill a few holes over a doorway which seemed like the best option. I had a bit of trouble deciding whether the wall/door frame was solid and would hold the weight but it doesn't sound proper hollow when tapped unlike other sections of the wall. I drilled two holes and it went through the wall like butter, no resistance at all. There's a fish tank mounted inside that same wall where it's been hollowed out, so I had a look around in there. The whole wall, about a foot thick seems to be filled with plaster or something soft anyway.

Basically where I've started drilling is the only possible place to put a fingerboard but it doesn't seem solid. Any ideas what I could do? I tried a door frame mounting pull up bar already but the wall is too thick so it doesn't reach all the way through the doorway.

[nik at work]

I don't really know from your description what the wall construction is so it's hard to give a best solution. However if you can drill all the way through the wall then you could get two equally sized rectangles of 18mm ply a bit bigger than your fingerboard and bolt them together with long bolts/threaded rod through the wall then mount your fingerboard on one of these with screws. Unless the wall is made of cheese that should spread the load enough to accomodate most construction techniques.

[Schnell]

I had considered something like that but the wall is about 9 inches thick and I certainly don't have a drill bit that long, I suppose they can be got. Not sure what to add to the wall description.

[lagerstarfish]

I can lend you a longer than  9" cheese (or wall) drill if you can pick up from S11

[frankstoneline]

Could build a frame (couple 2x4's with a supported piece of ply across top) and use some wide clamps to clamp it to the door frame, this way the bulk of the downward force is held by the legs running up either side of the doorway and the doorframe just keeps the whole rig from tipping over.

Fair warning, you probably want some wood bits to distribute the force from the clamps on the outside of the doorway, also this requires removal of any door hanging in the doorway (not ideal if the door is to the shitter)

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

A photo would help. Is the wall more solid either side? If so you could run a piece of ply wider that the doorway. If the wall isn't solid there will be vertical studs at regular intervals, likely to be up each side of the door frame. If you can drill exploratory holes to find these you'll be able to fix firmly to them. Are we talking modern wall or old made of dust and spit (like ours  )

[Schnell]

I will try to get a photo up this evening. It's not any more solid on either side of the frame as far as I can see, other than maybe a small strip on one side that I can't drill into because it's right in a corner.

I definitely can't take out the door.

[tommytwotone]

Probably not the most desirable solution given that you've already drilled the holes but I'd be investigating the removable doorframe pullup bar route.


A few examples of this, and a few other potential setups on here:


http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/your-setup

[Schnell]

Probably not the most desirable solution given that you've already drilled the holes but I'd be investigating the removable doorframe pullup bar route.

A few examples of this, and a few other potential setups on here:


http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/your-setup

I've tried this but the doorway is too thick, approx 9 inches of wall so the two pullup bars I've tried didn't fit. I might try modifying them a bit to see if it'll work if nothing else comes up.

[lagerstarfish]

couple of pullup bars fitted within the frame?

this type

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9032639.htm?CMPID=GS001&_$ja=cgid:18091974685|tsid:59156|cid:189949525|lid:96720452005|nw:g|crid:60095811685|rnd:926128139852797380|dvc:c|adp:1o2

[tomtom]

I'm sorry. But every time I read the subject title I think of this response. So its going to have to go in...

When mounting a wooden fingerboard, be especially careful of splinters in/on or around the genitals.

I'll get my coat.

[Probes]

Maybe?

http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-mounting-device-2

[tommytwotone]

Probably not the most desirable solution given that you've already drilled the holes but I'd be investigating the removable doorframe pullup bar route.

A few examples of this, and a few other potential setups on here:


http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/your-setup

I've tried this but the doorway is too thick, approx 9 inches of wall so the two pullup bars I've tried didn't fit. I might try modifying them a bit to see if it'll work if nothing else comes up.

To be honest I've only just got round to putting my Beastmaker up after c.4 years of living in rented places, could never really sort out a viable option for putting it up.


I'm lucky to now have a cellar so just screwed mine to one of the rafters.

[Doug]

Or maybe this one?

http://www.climbukshop.com/product.php/149/fingerboard-doorway-mounting-system

[Schnell]

Or maybe this one?
http://www.climbukshop.com/product.php/149/fingerboard-doorway-mounting-system

Maybe?
http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-mounting-device-2

I think one of these, or a home-made equivalent, will probably be the answer. I've not drilled all the holes yet anyway so it'll also save me a bit of clean up when we move out. Thanks guys

[AlistairB]

Maybe?

http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-mounting-device-2

We have a homemade version of that, by far the best solution if you don't want to drill any holes. Always been totally bomber so far even on crappy doorframes in plaster board walls. Doesn't shift under load at all like most pullup bar systems I've used.