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benchmarks for the elderly part deux (Read 18047 times)

Sloper

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benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 23, 2014, 08:21:23 pm
Right bouldering grades only.

I have managed 6a @ 46 beat that you  :shag:s

For the mathematically able it would alos be interesting to see how the graph has changed shape over time: I suspect 30 years ago the peak would be about 30+ and now it's probably <25

joel182

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#1 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 23, 2014, 11:33:53 pm
Klem Loskot, Zunami 8C at 38

Fred Nicole, Le Boa 8C at 41

tc

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#2 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 24, 2014, 05:40:57 pm
The older I get the better I was.  ;)

Oldmanmatt

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#3 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 24, 2014, 09:54:00 pm

The older I get the better I was.  ;)
+1

And I'm going to get was even better.

It is the inalienable right of all ageing Gits to have been waaay better bitd, than all these upstart, wussy, half hearts; who clearly just benefit from standing on the shoulders of my generation and what's more.........



God, I feel old lately.


Fricken demoralising, watching all these kids getting stronger and stronger as I get creakier and creakier.

Uplifting and rewarding on one hand.

Major bummer on the other.

tomtom

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#4 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 24, 2014, 10:00:56 pm
Yeah but you get much better at being injured as you get older... ;)

Nibile

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#5 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 07:26:17 am
Nothing to do with climbing, but I can tell that physically I've never been as strong as I am now. Or was before knee surgery...
So, I imagine that with some time and dedication, to get ze feel of ze rock, I could climb the hardest now.
 :shrug: :tumble:

Sasquatch

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#6 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 06:29:06 pm
I did my first v13 at 37,  and hoping to keep progressing....   :jab:

Matt Birch is in Bishop working Lucid Dreaming for the winter.  It's reasonably likely he'll send that which would be v15 at close to 40.....  We'll have to wait and see.

Doylo

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#7 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 07:00:04 pm
I did my first v13 at 37,  and hoping to keep progressing....   :jab:

Matt Birch is in Bishop working Lucid Dreaming for the winter.  It's reasonably likely he'll send that which would be v15 at close to 40.....  We'll have to wait and see.

Wasn't he going to Give it v13 before it was done? Yorkshire grades

tomtom

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#8 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 07:27:01 pm

I did my first v13 at 37,  and hoping to keep progressing....   :jab:

Matt Birch is in Bishop working Lucid Dreaming for the winter.  It's reasonably likely he'll send that which would be v15 at close to 40.....  We'll have to wait and see.

Matt must be well over 40.. Was at Leeds same time as me.. 43? Nice bloke - only met him a couple of times then...

SA Chris

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#9 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 08:23:56 pm
I'm pretty sure none of the original dark horses are the right side of 40

davej

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#10 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 08:29:03 pm
I used to bump into Matt at rubicon 25+ years ago way strong!

Sasquatch

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#11 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 09:06:42 pm
I figured he was over 40, but didn't really know so didn't want to project to elderly....

AndyR

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#12 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 25, 2014, 09:48:22 pm
I figured he was over 40, but didn't really know so didn't want to project to elderly....
I went to Uni with him - he's 43 +/- 1

Nibile

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#13 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 26, 2014, 02:50:10 pm
Sometimes I think "Had I known what I know now, in terms of training, eating, etc, ten or fifteen years ago, when I could have actually a lot more time to climb, I would have climbed 8a and 8b a lot sooner, etc".
Then I think that the lack of knowledge in the first (ten or fifteen) years of my climbing, is my luck.
I've overtrained for years and years on end, putting in a lot of effort for little rewards, but this allowed me to: 1) tolerate silly amounts of training; 2) get mentally strong to bear the grind.
So, instead of having the knowledge to peak at, say 28/34 years, I have now the knowledge to peak at 43 and onwards.
Of course I could have peaked at 25 and then remained solid until now, but we'll never know this. What I know is that I live in the present, and at present I'm at the peak of my physical abilities, so who cares about what could have been in the past if...?

Sasquatch

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#14 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 26, 2014, 05:27:33 pm
Completely agreed Nibs.  I love to hear about older crushers as it means I realistically (ha) plan to continue improving for many years to come.  Next years goal is 5.14a and another 8B, and I'll see if I can get a sport letter grade every 2 years, which will put me at 5.14B at 40, 5.14c at 42, 5.14d at 44, and 5.15 at 46. The bouldering improvement may be harder to come by, but considering I still can't do a 1-armer or a front lever, there's loads of room for strength improvements, so maybe it will come.

I see no reason this can't happen :)  (lots for why it won't, but I'll just stick my head in the sand and continue dreaming)

a dense loner

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#15 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 26, 2014, 07:02:57 pm
Ben Moon did voyager sit 8B+ when he was 40.

And of course I agree with the two beasts that have posted before me.

Offwidth

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#16 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 06:46:12 pm
I love to hear about older crushers

I suspect I've come close to crushing several spotters being almost transuranic weight wise for a boulderer of my height, daftly keen and long term pretty shit. Yet if people are claiming 6a in their 40s there is amazingly hope for me yet to escape bottom scraping performances, unless we are talking actual 6a sandbags in Font.

tomtom

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#17 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 06:57:04 pm
I've moved up from 6C to 7C (well one.. ;) ) from 40-45...

Monolith

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#18 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 07:08:31 pm
Great thread. Of strong interest to an ailing and ageing cudda been like myself.

Lee Anderson and Lorenzo Frusteri are two of my greatest heroes.

Nibile

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#19 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 08:04:57 pm
Great thread. Of strong interest to an ailing and ageing cudda been like myself.

Lee Anderson and Lorenzo Frusteri are two of my greatest heroes.
;D ;D ;D

tc

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#20 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 10:19:26 pm
Two 7Cs in 2013 at the age of 55 is my proud boast. Still training hard when time and motivation allow (and more gently when they are lacking), trying to avoid injury and hoping to get there again this winter.

Mike Tyson

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#21 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 10:40:25 pm
Victory will be ours mate! (Hopefully!)

Monolith

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#22 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 27, 2014, 11:16:00 pm
Two 7Cs in 2013 at the age of 55 is my proud boast. Still training hard when time and motivation allow (and more gently when they are lacking), trying to avoid injury and hoping to get there again this winter.

Beast Tim! That's what an early days schooling at The Breck sets you up for!

tc

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#23 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
November 28, 2014, 10:49:25 am
Ah, the Breck...
« Last Edit: November 28, 2014, 11:05:50 am by tc »

heelhookofglory

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#24 Re: benchmarks for the elderly part deux
December 31, 2014, 02:30:24 pm
A genuinely inspiring thread, great to see.

 

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