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Final hard pitch on Dawn wall redpointed (Read 99302 times)

DAVETHOMAS90

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What they have done seems pretty straight forward to me, they started at the bottom and climbed to the top in one go and every pitch was red pointed by both of them. The rest seems irrelevant.

The only thing that seems a bit odd is not climbing all the pitches in sequence. No issue with it just seems odd.

That's quite an oversimplification isn't it!

... if we dismiss the 6 years of preparation as a starting point (which is, for me, why this has been so captivating). Then of course, not every pitch was redpointed by both of them.. or climbed by both of them.. and so many other factors ignored here that have raised questions, and which offer potential for improvement, if that's your bag - that's not the real story here - but a little more clarity can make things easier to relate to, which I'm sure is probably what a lot of people are after, climber or non-climber.

bendavison

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What they have done seems pretty straight forward to me, they started at the bottom and climbed to the top in one go and every pitch was red pointed by both of them, other than the dyno/loop pitch. The rest seems irrelevant.

The only thing that seems a bit odd is not climbing all the pitches in sequence. No issue with it just seems odd.

That's quite an oversimplification isn't it!

... if we dismiss the 6 years of preparation as a starting point (which is, for me, why this has been so captivating). Then of course, not every pitch was redpointed by both of them.. or climbed by both of them.. and so many other factors ignored here that have raised questions, and which offer potential for improvement, if that's your bag - that's not the real story here - but a little more clarity can make things easier to relate to, which I'm sure is probably what a lot of people are after, climber or non-climber.

Is that better? Seems pretty clear to me.

slackline

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Then of course, not every pitch was redpointed by both of them..

Yep they swung leads on pitches 1-5 (reported under Day 1, pitches were 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b, 5.12d) at least. I've not read anything about the easier top pitches.

This is not an attempt to denigrate their efforts, just clarification of the facts.

bendavison

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I'd guess that they swung leads on some of the top pitches, or a that only one of them led the last pitch. Might have caused a bit of confusion and a huge anticlimax to have one of them top out to a cheering crowd only to disappear over the edge again to let the other lead it...

DAVETHOMAS90

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What they have done seems pretty straight forward to me, they started at the bottom and climbed to the top in one go and every pitch was red pointed by both of them, other than the dyno/loop pitch. The rest seems irrelevant.

The only thing that seems a bit odd is not climbing all the pitches in sequence. No issue with it just seems odd.

That's quite an oversimplification isn't it!

... if we dismiss the 6 years of preparation as a starting point (which is, for me, why this has been so captivating). Then of course, not every pitch was redpointed by both of them.. or climbed by both of them.. and so many other factors ignored here that have raised questions, and which offer potential for improvement, if that's your bag - that's not the real story here - but a little more clarity can make things easier to relate to, which I'm sure is probably what a lot of people are after, climber or non-climber.

Is that better? Seems pretty clear to me.

I wasn't trying to define what had happened, or make it clearer - a lot of the detail can be found on the various other reports pages, face book links etc. Slackers provided links to most of them; really worth checking out, with some great footage from previous attempts etc.

Also worth - if you're bothered - going through the breakdown of which pitches led, followed redpointed etc.

Thanks Slackers for info on first pitches, variations after those of course too.

I'm just sad that it's all over! I'm sure I'm not the only one

Falling Down

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Its not hard to see why non climbers cant really get there heads around what they did when a lot of climbers dont get the differences in the various aspects of the sport.


Exactly, I don't know why we get wound up about it either... It's must be like cricket to a non-cricketer.

lagerstarfish

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just had my first Dawn Wall conversation at work

some cool slack jawed responses to me explaining tendon pulley injuries (and how many I have had)

tomtom

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just had my first Dawn Wall conversation at work

some cool slack jawed responses to me explaining tendon pulley injuries (and how many I have had)

Working at home, I was only able to have  chat to the cat about this. He looked disinterested and then one armer'd a shelf...

lagerstarfish

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jump start and tail kipping?

back around cat

tomtom

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jump start and tail kipping?

back around cat

To be fair he did french start it... I feel less inadequate now.

mindfull

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"Very good" interview with Alex "Honnlove" about Dawn Wall :)

cheque

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just had my first Dawn Wall conversation at work

some cool slack jawed responses to me explaining tendon pulley injuries (and how many I have had)

A guy at work told me he "wasn't sure whether to believe" that they had to wait to grow sufficient skin to between redpoint days.

Paul B

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I hope you pointed him to your nail file / 3M sanding block and asked what he thought you were doing constantly filing your fingertips?

a dense loner

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I must have filed my skin less than ten times!

On another note does anyone know if they've done the dawn wall yet?

slackline

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standard

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Doylo

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Seems they're calling that pitch 14.c or 8c+ now.

Fiend

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Nice footage  :)

DAVETHOMAS90

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Nice video, with some great footage of Jorgesun on the crux pitch.



Old news of course, but a sweet little vid. All really inspiring.

SA Chris

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slackline

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slackline

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James Malloch

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Ondra wants to do the dawn wall in a 24 hour push (noticed an interview on facebook shared by moon climbing).

This is in the future, not right now....

Fucking show off.

Durbs

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Ondra wants to do the dawn wall in a 24 hour push (noticed an interview on facebook shared by moon climbing).

This is in the future, not right now....

Saving himself for the flash I reckon

jwi

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The amount of pre-spray that has gone into this route is staggering

 

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