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Fingerboard - which holds to start (Read 1689 times)

roblaird

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Fingerboard - which holds to start
November 14, 2014, 12:53:07 pm
I've just bought a fingerboard and after some research I'm a bit confused....

Once I've warmed up, is it better to start with the easier or the harder holds?

I prefer max hangs rather than repeaters as I feel that works my weaknesses better.

Cheers

Rob

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#1 Re: Fingerboard - which holds to start
November 14, 2014, 01:16:47 pm
First of all, it depends on how long have you been fingerboarding before. The longer, the more rapidly you'll be ready for session. You'll warm up sooner.
Anyway, you have to go from a general warm up, aimed at increasing general blood flow, heart rate, etc; to a semi specific one, aimed at recruiting blood to the area that will be targeted by the excercise (shoulders, arms and fingers in your case); to a specific one, in which you mimic the very same excercise that you're going to perform, same movement patterns, etc, only at a lower intensity.
Then, after the complete warm up, you'll start from the hardest hangs, always leading with the weaker arm if you're doing one armed hangs.
Hope this helps.

Warning: if you've never fingerboarded before, you can still avoid it. If you're already hooked, oh well, welcome to the dark side of climbing.
 ;)

roblaird

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#2 Re: Fingerboard - which holds to start
November 14, 2014, 01:39:50 pm
Cheers for the in depth reply. I've been using rock rings for a year or so and the edge of a door frame and wanted to progress. Unfortunately I don't have the time to climb as much as I like so hopefully a fingerboard will help keep the strength between visits to the wall.

I figured hardest first makes sense, getting easier as you get more tired. Also your warm up puts a bit more structure to it so I'll keep that in mind.

Thanks again

Rob

 

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