[Adam Lincoln]

Am struggling to get to the wall as much at the moment so doing lots of repeaters. I am varying grips and generally doing 10 sets of the standard, 6 hangs of 7 secs and 3 secs rest. Rest for 2.5 mins. Ive never done them before and they aren't feeling easy. Still climbing 7c/7c+ is down the wall so can only think they should help me improve. Got a trip in 6 weeks and hoping this new type of training method might shock my system into some kind of improvement. (Having not done them before)

Am still getting down wall 2 or 3 times a week also. to do routes/circuits.

[jwi]

As a substitute for climbing they didn't work that well for me, but I could only do about 1/2 to 1 session a week of indoor bouldering when I had to use them as a substitute. I also did not have access to a fingerboard and just used a door frame.

2-3 sessions a week of actual climbing should be enough to improve, if combined with physical training & finger boarding, even starting at a high standard. It took a friend of mine (also 40+ ys) from 8a+ to 8c+ in a few years.

[bendavison]

My fastest strength gains were made during a month block of fingerboarding last winter.

Depending on what you're doing at the wall you could alter your fb session accordingly.

So, if you're getting to the wall 2-3 times a week for routes/circuits, then I guess you'll have time for 2 or 3 decent fb sessions. In a week where you just get to the wall twice, it might be worth doing a more enduro repeater session e.g. 2 sets of 9x(7 on 3 off) rest 1.5-2 mins between blocks, and plenty between sets.

But, I reckon 2 or 3 enduro sessions a week is plenty, so the fb might be better spent doing higher intensity stuff. I found 1 or 2 sets of 5x(5 on 10 off) with 2-3 mins between blocks to be pretty good for max, and more satisfying than max hangs, which always feel like a cop out to me.

[Nibile]

I don't like them especially, they're too skin dependant to me.
I'd choose power over anything else on a fingerboard. Or on a wall...
If you can still go to the wall twice, I can't see why doing repeaters.
Well I can't see why doing repeaters anyway, but that's 'nother kinda thang.

[Adam Lincoln]

Cheers guys.

[TobyD]

i broke my foot about 2 years ago, and did nothing for about 8 weeks, followed by 4 weeks or so of mainly repeaters, and traversing 10 on 10 off (all in trainers as i couldn't get a rock boot on). I didn't improve from pre injury level (unsurprisingly) but didn't come back that much worse either. Ie i think they seemed pretty effective.

[Ged]

I've had brilliant results from doing them when too short on time for anything else.  They seemed to significantly increase my PE.  I found I could do a short max hangs session, then rest for a few hours (or do it in the morning), then fairly low intensity but only 2 mins rest between sets repeaters later on.  I was doing 5 lots (so 5x 1 minute reps), then rest for 15 mins, then again, then again. 

a word of warning though, I've had some grim elbow problems this year and I think the major cause was doing the full lock repeaters.  Keep them to arms just bent a little bit through to 45 degrees.

Ged