[J.Kydd]

Hi guys,

I've been climbing for about 5 months but only indoors. I boulder at the Quay in Exeter once a week and have been up to Bloc & TCA in Bristol a few times now.
Recently took part in the competition & social thing Bloc put on and surprised myself with what I was actually capable of when faced with something I wouldn't expect to be able to complete.

I'm really keen to get outdoors and climb on some proper rock, but being very new to the whole world of bouldering I'm not really too sure where to start. My knowledge of grades etc is pretty low, and I know that what's achievable in the gym does not generally translate straight to rock.
Also not too sure where to go for guides etc - any help/pointers would be great
I live in Taunton, Somerset and am well aware that around the immediate are there really isn't much, but am happy to travel within reason.
My 'primary' sport is bike trials, so I spend quite a lot of time on Dartmoor when the weather is good. Bone Hill is our standard riding spot, but I've been told that many of the climbs there are generally harder than at other tors. Anyone recommend any other Tors with a good mix of grades?

If there's anyone else from around this area who heads out often and would be up for meeting up would be great too.

Cheers
Josh

[dontfollowme]

There's plenty of lower grade stuff at Bonehill: http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Bonehill/

You'll feel more confident with a pad underneath you so it might be worth trying to get hold of a cheap one (e.g. Alpkit)

The rock there is sharp so avoid slapping for holds too much.

Good luck.

[Sloper]

Just get out there and get the mileage in on the easier routes, by far and away the best way of improving and having fun, idnore limestone in the UK it's usually shit or hard which isn't a great combination for a beginner.

[granticus]

   Heh Josh..  Plenty of lower grade problems at all of the main tors with bouldering on Dartmoor.  Bonehill is great because it is easily accessible and there will more than likely be other climbers around.

However, there is stuff a little more local to you but not much information out there.
Hurlstone Point near Bossington just beyond Minehead from your side would be a good place for you to hit up.
Park in the NT car park at Bossington, walk out to the coast and down steps to the beach.  The bouldering is on the crag to your right straight off the pebble beach (The small pebbles actually make for quite a soft landing).  The easier bouldering is accessible at low-tide, obvious walls near the sea with a selection of challenges that will hone your technique.  Then at the top of the beach, you see the well chalked steep section of crag which has some steeper more difficult climbing.  (Traverses and up problems).  This has the advantage of being pretty weather proof and is generally not affected by the tide.    A little further west along the coast is Lynmouth, guide on javu.co.uk.

[highrepute]

For bouldering in the SW

http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/
http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/guides/

Are very useful resources with guides to many of the bouldering areas in the SW.

Unfortunately there is not a printed bouldering guide for the SW. The best option is Boulder Britain. Which has good coverage of some of the good areas in the SW and is also a great guide if you ever fancy venturing north. I think this guide does a great job of covering the easier climbing.

This thread is a good source of SW inspiration

I'm not a local so far from an expert. But Bonehill was the first place I climbed at in the SW. It's got plenty of easier problems. The difficulty on the SW moors is that the sharpness of the rock is very brutal on the skin. It is definitely the sharpest rock I've ever climbed on. However, I think the climbing on the moors is really good. The other tor I've been to is Hound Tor, also good.

Meeting up with others is definitely the best way to get the best out of climbing but I'm afraid I can't help you there.

Have fun!

[SA Chris]

There's also loads of easier stuff at Smallacombe, although it's a bit of a bewildering jumble to start off.

http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml

I wouldn't get too caught up with grades and names of problems on your first visits, just head to somewhere like Bonehill and have a go at the things that look easy enough and low enough. Even if you don't get to "tick" any problems, any time spent on real rock at this stage is good time. Wrap up though, it can get baltic up there in colder weather.

[J.Kydd]

Brilliant, cheers guys.

The link to Javu has made things much clearer! I'll likely go and have a scout around Bossington/Lynmouth soon too.
I picked up a mat a couple of weeks ago, so now to go out and fall on it 

Josh

[granticus]

Brilliant, cheers guys.

The link to Javu has made things much clearer! I'll likely go and have a scout around Bossington/Lynmouth soon too.
I picked up a mat a couple of weeks ago, so now to go out and fall on it 

Nice one!  There's some stuff in the region of Weston/ Clevedon too that is probably worth a look for a local ..

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=551
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1544

[Duma]

Brilliant, cheers guys.

The link to Javu has made things much clearer! I'll likely go and have a scout around Bossington/Lynmouth soon too.
I picked up a mat a couple of weeks ago, so now to go out and fall on it 

Nice one!  There's some stuff in the region of Weston/ Clevedon too that is probably worth a look for a local ..

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=551
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1544

From Taunton, I'd definitely go west every time rather than to Clevedon/sand point...

[SA Chris]

Definitely. The moor is IMO your best starting point. Generally good rock with safe flat landings, problems of all shapes and sizes, no tide / waves to worry about, good pubs!