[PipeSmoke]

Alright, was just wondering if training on the campus board and fingerboard, on seperate days of the week but alternating between the two, was as effective as doing it in seperate blocks? So say fingerboard Mon, Wed, Fri,  and campus on Tue and Thur? Then just doing regular bouldering on one day of weekend?

[Sasquatch]

Personally, I'd break every finger pulley before seeing any gains from that.  But then I generally need 1-2 full day off after a fingerboard or campus session.  I make the session's hard, then take the rest to let the body recover. 

[krymson]

Alright, was just wondering if training on the campus board and fingerboard, on seperate days of the week but alternating between the two, was as effective as doing it in seperate blocks? So say fingerboard Mon, Wed, Fri,  and campus on Tue and Thur? Then just doing regular bouldering on one day of weekend?

For your future reference:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.tw/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

[groovedog]

Cripes, 5 days on of Strength and power?! You must be made of Kevlar. I understand the preferred way is blocks of strength (finger board) then Power (campus)

[a dense loner]

Having said all that pipe smoke if you train like normal people you'll just be normal

[Nibile]

Pipe, that routine means looking for serius troubles!
Not only because of the volume, and because you target similar abilities, fingers in particular, but also because of the specific nature of campusing.
You must be fresh to campus with good results. I mean, with a good training effect.
Also, campusing is precarious per se, so with tired fingers it's very likely that you don't latch a rung correctly and by pulling on you get some sort of niggle/injury.
Also, campusing relies heavily on CNS, with coordination and nervous input issues, so being fresh is a must.
I think.

[T_B]

I'm surprised people consider campussing hard on the pulleys? If you're totally open, you can actually train campussing with a pulley injury IMO. I was told this 15 years ago by an (at the time) 8c+ climber and laughed, but I subscribed to it and it's worked for me. I've done a lot of campussing over the years, but only really got into fingerboards very recently. Interestingly, my fingers have been the least tweaky they've ever been since I started f/boarding. It's the bouldering/routes and climbing tired that have caused me problems. Short sessions are also key (I rarely if ever 'thrash' thesedays, as 90% of my climbing sessions are sub 1.5hrs).

Personally, I could do 2 x f/board and 2 x campus in a week, but it would have to be day on day off, and the boulder sessions v light.

Agree with Nibile, you need to be fresh to campus, partly because psychologically it's a really hard exercise to do if you're tired.

[abarro81]

I've used front 3 drag campusing when injured on crimps before too. Nails your skin though!

[Nibile]

Skin is an issue as well, but in my experience the problem is this:
- first of all you generally drag front3, so each finger has a higher load due to not using the pinky;
- then, while openhanding you have a mechanical advantage, because the fingers are straight and pulleys aren't engaged; so, the tendons work in pure extension and this can lead to bad bad injuries, that of course I have experienced. When crimping or half crimping, at some point the fingers open up and you let go or fall. When openhanding, as long as the skin catches, you can still pull because the fingers can't open up. So it's possible to pull beyond the fingers' strength just because this mechanical advantage.

[PipeSmoke]

Was just an example guys. Cheers for the advice though. I have been doing monday campus, tuesday fingerboard, wednesday rest day , thursday campus and friday fingerboard. I haven't noticed any problems so far, and like someone said a bit further up I have found climbing tired to be more tweaky. I always back off when not feeling good as well.

Was just curious as to whether training both simultaneously, if don't get injured, was an effective training method.

Have fingerboarded for a number of years so not jumping in head first, just wanted to supplement it with some campus to shock the system a little and improve other aspects

[Sasquatch]

Out of curiousity, when you were fbing before, were you taking rest days off beforehand?  If so, have you seen a change in your fbing? better or worse?

[PipeSmoke]

well i used to do it when knew wasn't climbing outside as was able to get outside a lot more frequently , say 4/5/6 days a week, however cant as much anymore, hence the interest in stepping up the training. Just recently started training my weaknesses on  the fb a lot harder, and have seen real improvements, definitely feel strong/more confident on various holds. I have been using different holds on different days, so say an intense front + back day, followed by sloper + edge day in 2 days time, seeing how that goes.
Found the 30 degree sloper on  the beastmaker seemed to help a lot as well, which was a hang i had  never paid to much attention to before.