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Training front two fingers (Read 1668 times)

PipeSmoke

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Training front two fingers
October 25, 2014, 06:12:28 pm
Recently noticed my front two fingers, especially when hanging pockets are a lot weaker so I always revert to using back two. I can hang the back two a lot more strongly  than my  front two as well on the beastmaker.

Was just wondering what methods you guys found best to train front two with a minimum risk of injury?
I injured my index finger a while ago so am a bit nervous to jump head first into hard training on it. Tried deadhangs and will work my way up to full front two finger sets, at the moment can only really manage reps of 5 seconds.

Any advice?
Thanks

a dense loner

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#1 Re: Training front two fingers
October 25, 2014, 06:29:46 pm
You look like you don't need much training from your avatar  ;)
When you say pockets what do you mean? I'm taking it you mean pulling down on them rather than crimping them, although the same process will apply. Seems strange that you're better back two but... Theres nothing wrong with reps of 5 secs, i'd just keep working on them. If i think i've got a specific weakness on board i'll warm up and just target that. i.e. i'll warm up and then do say 10 sets on front 2, 5 sets on back 2, and 10 sets on middle 2. I only do 5 sets on back 2 since i think they're useless but you never know. If you've got a board at home it's much easier to work on them, i.e. i'd do them a lot as opposed to the end of session at a wall. Plus little and often would be better for finger.
I don't do repeaters i just count and have a little rest in between, which you could say are long repeaters i suppose.

PipeSmoke

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#2 Re: Training front two fingers
October 25, 2014, 06:51:58 pm
I mean when having to use a two finger pocket, that cant crimp at all, I find can't do it with front two, but am comfortable and strong with back two, would ideally like to be strong on both.
Yeah its a decent starting point 5 second deadhangs, but it just feels a lot more uncomfortable/weaker than back two, strange I know ha! That's why so keen to get it sorted out, feels dodgy for me. Maybe just need to add some sets into my fingerboard routine and just stick at it?

Cheers for reply

a dense loner

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#3 Re: Training front two fingers
October 25, 2014, 07:53:51 pm
Yeh if I was a lot weaker on front 2 I'd just make sure I trained them more than back 2. For instance if you do 3 sets of each I'd up my front 2 to 6 sets for a couple of wks then reassess

honroid

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#4 Re: Training front two fingers
October 25, 2014, 09:48:43 pm
I have found that getting used to the feeling of hanging a new pocket combo is the biggest hurdle. Knowing when to stop is tricky and sometimes hanging e.g. front two can feel unattainable or deeply uncomfortable when actually your body is able to perform the hang. It can be worth hanging on beyond the pain barrier and pushing a little deeper than you might think (MTFU?). At the same time if you have a tweaky finger that probably is not the best advice....

I have a trip to Buoux planned and have just bought a couple of sets of pockets for my home board as well as focusing my fingerboard sessions more on pockets. After focusing on front two and back two for the last few weeks I've seen improvements that cannot possibly be due to strength or stamina development alone.

I guess I'm agreeing with the above in saying stick with it and you'll get used to it. Another option for the injured index could just be three finger hangs...?

 

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