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Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards? (Read 14994 times)

andy popp

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#25 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 08:59:41 pm
I'm afraid I have to confess you have a much better memory than me Ben.

Fiend

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#26 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 09:11:34 pm
Lost World would seem pretty esoteric to someone who's driven nearly 5 hours to the hallowed gritstone. That said since it comes highly recommended, it's on, and for the repeat reasons given, Adrenaline Rush is off. Sloper I appreciate some of your vague suggestions but I'm not sure they are classic enough.

mark20

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#27 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 09:34:31 pm
Spanish Fly - yup that could be good, I assume the pre-placed wire is de-rigeur?
Looked like it would be OK without it to be honest, though the guide does say E7 without. I'll get back to you on that one...

How about Driveby and Blood on the Shamrock at Hawcliffe. Mega crag. Is Birdsong safe-ish too?

nik at work

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#28 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 09:45:52 pm
Also at Hawkcliffe Cromeys new E7 is pretty safe.

Boredboy

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#29 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 09:47:12 pm
Spanish fly would be a bit of a grim fall onto a creaky old flake under the roof without the pre placed RP's. weird moves up and right with a last graunch for the ledge would mean a potentially knacking fall from that move.

geoffg

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#30 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 10:01:05 pm
Resurrection E6 6b at Brimham is safe and well worth the effort. Crisp conditions and a blue alien help.

mrjonathanr

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#31 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 10:15:05 pm
Always thought Mickey Fin at Gardoms looked brilliant.

andy popp

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#32 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 10:15:30 pm
Left Wall at Brimham fits the bill perfectly.  Brilliant route.

bigtuboflard

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#33 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 10:19:39 pm
Left Wall at Brimham fits the bill perfectly.  Brilliant route.
beat me to it. Was just about to throw that in the ring too

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#34 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 11:10:50 pm
Plenty of e6/7/8's on this

 :popcorn:

mrjonathanr

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#35 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 20, 2014, 11:16:35 pm
A brilliant film, not really showcasing the safe end of E6 though?

andyd

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#36 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 21, 2014, 08:19:53 am
Great Flake - skyhooks are okay. Didn't it get led a lot in the past?
Don't think you'll need the sky hooks now that we live in the future! Cams and a good hidden wire. I'd be tempted to ab down to check the wire placement and that the top is clean :slap: and go for the lead.

Bonjoy

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#37 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 21, 2014, 11:02:35 am
Spanish Fly - yup that could be good, I assume the pre-placed wire is de-rigeur?
Looked like it would be OK without it to be honest, though the guide does say E7 without. I'll get back to you on that one...

I belayed Zaff on this when he tried it sans wire. He fell and missed hitting his head on the bouldery landing by inches. That wasn't from the last hard move either. I did it with the wire in and it was about font 7a+/b i.e. falling off the last hard move was quite likely. It makes a very good semi-ground up target with the wire in and a very bad one without. Fine as a headpoint though I'd imagine.

SA Chris

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#38 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 23, 2014, 09:48:49 am
A Step in the Green Light Green E6 6b ** at Heptonstall.

Close. Apparently named after this; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_Was_Only_Nineteen

Wood FT

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#39 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 23, 2014, 10:44:41 am
Re: Lost World

How tall are you Fiend?

Isn't the crux on this a shitter for the lesser gangly? I'm going off second hand information but two able mates tried it, one found it okay and the other got shut down with the difference being an inch or so. 

Johnny Brown

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#40 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 23, 2014, 11:26:43 am
It is a bit reachy but I managed it. It is very hard though, I didn't think it was great route but you don't get to undercut a pebble like that too often.

Fiend

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#41 Re: Protectable Gritstone E6-ish upwards?
October 23, 2014, 12:03:05 pm
5'8" +1 and as I redefine fat and weak for the current millenia, none of these suggestions are for me!

 

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