[tomtom]

Yes but I'm quite happy not being able to do the warm up BM work out

I had a disappointing wall visit today

[fried]

What's in the 5A BM workout? I've heard rumour of it, but alas only available on iphone.

[Fiend]

It's the workout that gets you strong enough to climb 5A....

[cheque]

It's repeaters (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off x7) with 2:30 rest inbetween.

Jugs
Jugs again
3-finger second joint pocket
2-finger second joint pocket
4-finger first joint slot
35 degree slopers

Then two more times with 6 minutes rest between sets.

The stumbling blocks for me are that I can't hang the four-finger slots for more than five seconds and can't hang the slopers for more than about three.

And I also got a mad scary twinge in my left middle finger on the 3-finger pockets the second time round this evening so it looks like my theory about having recovered from injury after nine fucking months of taking it easy were unfounded and I really need to actually go to a physio to work out what exactly is wrong with my fingers and whether there's anything I can do about it.

[nai]

Sorry to hear about your finger, cheque. 

Is this on the BM1k?  It'd be a bit brutal hanging the low 4f slots on the 2k at 5A.  35s sound harsh too but hanging them is very temp/skin dependent.

Must be a Rubicon 5A they have in mind.

[cheque]

Is this on the BM1k?

Yep 1k. The first-joint slots are about 10-12mm I'd guess. Not that small but I find them difficult to hang.

I was so angry about my finger last night- just depressed now. It's not swelled up but has confirmed the nagging fear I had that all the rest and stretching I've been doing have relieved the symptoms but don't stop them flaring up again when I attempt to train or climb on anything but nice holds. Seeing a physio on Thursday.

[fried]

Cheers for the info Cheque. I can't even hang the bottom 4-finger slot, mind you I haven't tried for a long while. I have a month coming up where it's going to be difficult to climb much, so I need to get back on the BM (finger permitting). Good luck with your recovery.

[Luke Owens]

M: Work gym

15 Wide Grip Pull Ups
3 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Upright Shoulder Rotation (5kg)
3 x 10 Ab Wheel Roll-out (On knees)

Repeaters
Open Hand 30mm Incut Edge (6sec on 4sec off) x 6
Half Crimp 20mm Incut Edge (4sec on 6sec off) x 6
The above 3 times with 3 min rest between sets.

T: Rest

W: Oswestry Indoor Bouldering

25mins Aerocap

10 x V0-V1
5 x V1-V2
5 x V2-V3
2 x V4-V5

Tried a bunch of other V5-V6 that I came close on.

Spent 30 mins on the woody at the end of the session. Felt much better on it this time. Felt like I could really drive weight through my feet and my core felt strong. Managed to make up a few problems and make it all the way up the board. Really happy with the progress, even with it being at the end of the session.

T: Rest

F: Pantymwyn - Didn't have long and the whole place was wet. Repeated a 6B+ then sacked it off.

S: Rest

S: Diamond bolting session - Part retrobolted an old route and half bolted a new line. Hours of jugging up and down and hanging around resulted in major unexpected energy loss. Felt drained/dizzy on the way out. Got home and felt really ill.

[JackAus]

It's repeaters (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off x7) with 2:30 rest inbetween.

Jugs
Jugs again
3-finger second joint pocket
2-finger second joint pocket
4-finger first joint slot
35 degree slopers

Then two more times with 6 minutes rest between sets.

The stumbling blocks for me are that I can't hang the four-finger slots for more than five seconds and can't hang the slopers for more than about three.

And I also got a mad scary twinge in my left middle finger on the 3-finger pockets the second time round this evening so it looks like my theory about having recovered from injury after nine fucking months of taking it easy were unfounded and I really need to actually go to a physio to work out what exactly is wrong with my fingers and whether there's anything I can do about it.

Thanks! Hadn't heard of the app before...

What's the easiest program for the BM2K? I never do anything structured... Really need to put my current BM up actually.... Its just gathering dust.

STG: Another V7 (Might move to MTG, too hot now...) and DWS project. Upgraded to STG.....
MTG: 
LTG: V11

Fuck all climbing this week. Life getting in the way of things.

M: Lot 33. Humid as fuck. Managed to forget my chalk. Didn't stay long. Just repeated a bunch of stuff up to V5.
T:
W:
T: Lot 33. Short session. Couple of V4s and V5.
F:
S:
S:

Really not very psyched at the moment. Just not getting any progress, bumming me out abit but it's kind of expected. DWS season starting now though.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board. worked a few things before repeating some old problems from last year.
Thu.  Bike 30 miles.
Fri. Board mirror session using some harder problems. 41 in total.
Sat. looking at houses.
Sun. Board repeating stuff. Bike 35 miles windy as hell.
I thought I would rest my foot Mon/Tue but it appeared to make it worse doing nothing.

[tomtom]

Looking to move house again Webbo?

[webbo]

That's the plan. However things change in the Webbo household on a daily basis. As we currently live in a 17th century cottage,I was told the next house will be new. But as of last night it looks like it will be old and requiring major rebuilding.but it is being sold to me on the basis the large double garage will be an improvement on my current man cave.