[hstmoore]

I've started to notice that I'm rubbish at deadpointing (making a dynamic move with one hand to a hold that is out of reach by swinging my body and throwing my arm towards the hold at the apex of the swing).

I seem to fall short of the hold I'm aiming at every time (e.g on Steve's Wall at Almscliff or Fat Punters Roof at Whitehouses). I think that perhaps I am not throwing for the hold at the apex of my swing, or I'm somehow not controlling the movement of the swing well enough.

As I'm fairly tall and don't have much trouble locking-off, I usually just reach things statically and hence haven't had much practice of deadpointing. I'm also fairly crap at dynoing, and usually avoid it.

Has anyone got any tips for getting better at deadpointing? Perhaps trying lots of problems with deadpoints in or campusing would help.

Thanks,
Theo.

[Sasquatch]

Campusing is one good option. A system board is another.  Or if the campus board has feet, you can use the feet and make big deadpoint moves on it. 

[tomtom]

As you said practice lots of deadpoints! Ste's wall is quite tough as a dp though...

For me the most important part of DP well is core - it's normally sag that stops me reaching... Get those hips into the Rock

[tomtom]

Systems board/woody is a good idea too as Sasq said. I'm tall too and have tried to work on DP ing over the last couple of years...

[thekettle]

Try the 'Glue Bellybutton' technique (TM);
Instead of focusing on reaching the handhold, focus on superglueing your belly button to the wall at the exact moment you hit the hold, with zero movement of the core after catching the hold (it's strong glue  )

[tomtom]

Mrs TT went to belly dancing classes once and the instructor described the requisite movement as 'imagine you are trying to draw an 8 with a pen sticking out of your vagina'. Somehow that seems relevant to the belly button approach which is great btw

[kelvin]

Every time I see a belly dancer henceforth... I'll think of tomtom's Mrs and her Biro.

[tomtom]

Bug fat magic marker - not a biro

[krymson]

In addition to the above, If reach is the issue, you want to make sure you're prepping for the reach by swinging your body in the opposite direction first, and then in the direction you want to go. If you watch anyone doing a proper dyno they'll make it obvious. With deadpoints you need to do that too, just on a smaller scale.

Another example, if you watch Jain kim on the ifsc world cups you'll see her often swing an arm behind her as preparation for the next move, which will be in the opposite direction of where she is swinging.

Doesn't have to be your arms though, could also be your hips, your head, or whatever you're able to move enough to generate momentum.

[tomtom]

Yes - Shark introduced me to the 'headbutt the rock' technique of doing that to push your weight into the rock/hold at the last minute.. he nabbed it from SteMacs book apparently...

[Pebblespanker]

Some good stuff in Dave Mac's 9/10 climbers about dynamic movement too

+1 for core, the difference it makes is significant... once spent ages trying a steep problem at the wall endlessly falling off the pinch I was aiming at on the DP, the 'body sag' of a slack core was pulling me off the pinch to the point I got blister on my thumb (wood holds) from sliding off the pinch. Once I ensured my core was tensed before doing the DP I could nail it every time 

[hstmoore]

thanks for the help, very useful - particularly the pen in the vagina.

[tomtom]

No problem. Invoice is in the post

[rich d]

 

No problem. Invoice is in the post

I hope it's typed not written

[tomtom]

No problem. Invoice is in the post

I hope it's typed not written

Of course. Typed by firing ping pong balls at the keyboard....