[Bonjoy]

Some more news from the field, primarily a bunch of fine new things from Ned.

Roaches
<no name yet> 8A - The bulbous arête right of the steps on the Doug-less boulder. Mentioned as a project in the older Roaches guide. Proper ball mauling on flat hand slopers to what must be one of the hardest top outs in the Peak. I’ll put up a video of this when I get a chance. FA Ned

Robin Hood’s Stride
Men in Tights 7C - This is the prow on the far left of the Ben’s Wall boulder. “Start matched in the hueco as for The Nose. Climb along the prow, turn the corner and follow the lip until the arete allows you to mantle to glory. The foot ledge isn't in at the start (obviously). Grade is a guess due to summer temps ascent.” FA Ned

Churnet – Mirf’s Roof
Girthy McMirfy 8A+ - “A direct version of Burly McMirfy. Start as for Mirf's Roof but head straight out of the roof via a flake, a hard match on the lip and a huge throw to the jug.” FA Ned

Cave Dale
Underneath the Arses 6C – This is on Keep Buttress i.e. the rock below Peveril Castle. The base is ideal for 5-6 pottering with various uplines possible. UtA is a steep r-l traverse across the barrel starting in one corner and finishing in the other. So named as the rock is directly below the old drop-hole toilet in the castle wall.
Hole Dancer 7B+ - This is in a well hidden cavelet high above the Peak Cavern gorge. From Keep Buttress walk up and left to a grassy slab beneath the col, climb this by hand over handing up a hanging fence (!). Cross some barbed wire and drop steeply down the other side for 30m passing a gated off cave entrance. The HD cave is on the left facing north over Castleton. Climb out the centre via holes and slots to finish at a juggy ledge. As this is directly above Peak Cavern it’s a very good idea not to go questing any further downhill as the steepness of the slope means any dislodged rocks are likely to fall right over the edge, which will cause trouble if not worse. A great bit of esoterica, well worth the sketchy access. FA Ned

Whilst in Cave Dale I did the obvious left hand version of Sheep Shifter. It felt a bit harder than the normal but still 7b. As for the normal to LH in the slot then some tricky moves left to the big undercut then back right to the normal finish. Useful as something to do if you’re waiting for your mate to do SS.


And a random question. Does anyone know if the face right of Cottage Arete on the Roaches lower tier has been done? CA is below Piece of Mind just right of the wall surrounding Rock Hall. The holds looked cleaned and I have a vague memory of either seeing a pic of some folk on it or hearing about someone (maybe Pete W or Ryan) doing/trying it around the same time Sleepy Hollow got done.

[r-man]

Roaches
<no name yet> 8A - The bulbous arête right of the steps on the Doug-less boulder. Mentioned as a project in the older Roaches guide. Proper ball mauling on flat hand slopers to what must be one of the hardest top outs in the Peak. I’ll put up a video of this when I get a chance. FA Ned

Sounds great, looking forward to the video.

[andy popp]

Sounds horrendous, looking forward to the video.

[Sloper]

Serendipity, I was just asking about the problem right of the step, the one with the jug to start and then nothing, well even as a punter I have to say it looks harder than 8a (never having climbed one of course) Dense what do you think?

[Sloper]

Some more news from the field, primarily a bunch of fine new things from Ned.

Roaches
<no name yet> 8A - The bulbous arête right of the steps on the Doug-less boulder. Mentioned as a project in the older Roaches guide. Proper ball mauling on flat hand slopers to what must be one of the hardest top outs in the Peak. I’ll put up a video of this when I get a chance. FA Ned

Robin Hood’s Stride
Men in Tights 7C - This is the prow on the far left of the Ben’s Wall boulder. “Start matched in the hueco as for The Nose. Climb along the prow, turn the corner and follow the lip until the arete allows you to mantle to glory. The foot ledge isn't in at the start (obviously). Grade is a guess due to summer temps ascent.” FA Ned

Churnet – Mirf’s Roof
Girthy McMirfy 8A+ - “A direct version of Burly McMirfy. Start as for Mirf's Roof but head straight out of the roof via a flake, a hard match on the lip and a huge throw to the jug.” FA Ned

Cave Dale
Underneath the Arses 6C – This is on Keep Buttress i.e. the rock below Peveril Castle. The base is ideal for 5-6 pottering with various uplines possible. UtA is a steep r-l traverse across the barrel starting in one corner and finishing in the other. So named as the rock is directly below the old drop-hole toilet in the castle wall.
Hole Dancer 7B+ - This is in a well hidden cavelet high above the Peak Cavern gorge. From Keep Buttress walk up and left to a grassy slab beneath the col, climb this by hand over handing up a hanging fence (!). Cross some barbed wire and drop steeply down the other side for 30m passing a gated off cave entrance. The HD cave is on the left facing north over Castleton. Climb out the centre via holes and slots to finish at a juggy ledge. As this is directly above Peak Cavern it’s a very good idea not to go questing any further downhill as the steepness of the slope means any dislodged rocks are likely to fall right over the edge, which will cause trouble if not worse. A great bit of esoterica, well worth the sketchy access. FA Ned

Whilst in Cave Dale I did the obvious left hand version of Sheep Shifter. It felt a bit harder than the normal but still 7b. As for the normal to LH in the slot then some tricky moves left to the big undercut then back right to the normal finish. Useful as something to do if you’re waiting for your mate to do SS.


And a random question. Does anyone know if the face right of Cottage Arete on the Roaches lower tier has been done? CA is below Piece of Mind just right of the wall surrounding Rock Hall. The holds looked cleaned and I have a vague memory of either seeing a pic of some folk on it or hearing about someone (maybe Pete W or Ryan) doing/trying it around the same time Sleepy Hollow got done.

Wasn't this face one of Dawes' 'holding positions' jokes?

[Fiend]

Nice one mustard man, I like the obligatory monkey squeak video. Looking forward to see neds ball-mauling.

[Bonjoy]

Not sure Sloper, it looked suitable for that sort of thing. Unless you are thinking of the One Inch Punch thing on the upper tier.

Fiend - I was goosed after repeatedly failing on the last move several times and racing to get it done before it got dark. It's a skin of the teeth ascent, hence squeek. Didn't even have it in me to do a pull up on the finishing jug.

[Gus]

That face /slab to the right of the cottage is a local project. It nearly got done last winter but not quite. I suspect Ryan or Pete haven't tried it, as  they would make mincemeat of it!!

[Bonjoy]

Here's an unsuccessful attempt from one angle:



And here's the actual ascent from another:

[r-man]

Awesome. Meaty looking problem.

[Fiend]

Fuckinge hell that's a bit gruesome. Laughing in the face of the so-called lime season!

[T_B]

Owwww my elbows. Well impressive.

[Jaspersharpe]

Brutal!

[dave k]

 Wow. Great to see that arête climbed. I seem to remember reading something about Bramsby trying it a few years back. I cleaned it up once and got nowhere. Good work Ned.

[old cheese]

"nd a random question. Does anyone know if the face right of Cottage Arete on the Roaches lower tier has been done? CA is below Piece of Mind just right of the wall surrounding Rock Hall. The holds looked cleaned and I have a vague memory of either seeing a pic of some folk on it or hearing about someone (maybe Pete W or Ryan) doing/trying it around the same time Sleepy Hollow got done."

I was there last spring with worm and we are trying it. He had heard that is had been done at about 7b. We did the arête to the left then shredded our skin trying the face. Close but no cigar but with better temps would be ok I suppose

[Eddies]

I got close to doing the cottage face but snapped a large left foot pebble off and couldn't get past it... I know that the Bridgewood bro's were slapping for the top so im sure they've done it by now.

Ned's arête looks amazing.... nice one Neddy!

[Gus]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=302641

[Bonjoy]

Cheers yoot. Mystery solved

[Eddies]

Pete Bridgewood’s circumnavigation of the Tetris boulder creates the first ascent of Super Mario 8A+:

[Duma]

Pedant/
Not circumnavigation
/Pedant
Looks fun, good effort!

[fatneck]

Nice vibes...

[Johnny Brown]

Mega. What was with the first attempt to finish left then? Heartbreaking!

[Jaspersharpe]

Looked as if he tried to go straight up, then bailed left, then fell off! Heartbreaking indeed.

[a dense loner]

Good looking problem!

[Bonjoy]

FWIR going left at the end of Four Lions is an easier finish to the prob.