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Lleida information? (Read 3097 times)

csl

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Lleida information?
September 21, 2014, 06:30:41 pm
Have just booked flights to Barcelona for the last week in October, planning to head to the Lleida area.

Aim of the trip is to onsight as much as possible, and hopefully get my first 7b+ onsight.

Does anyone have any crag/route recommendations with that in mind?

Places I've been thinking about are Terradets/Tres Ponts/Collegats/Santa Linya.

Cheers for any info on where to stay/what crags to visit/avoid and any route recommendations!

T_B

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#1 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 02:28:21 pm
Not climbed at Collegats as it was too cold (early Nov) but looked great. Terradets is good for 7b+ o/s, though most routes are in the 7c-8a bracket. Not been to Santa Linya but heard that there's one 7b+ and it's nails. I'm off to Rodellar next month, having only been there for 2 days previously 'on holiday' from Terradets. It was dry in early Nov that year. Awesome place.

csl

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#2 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 02:44:30 pm
Thanks for the info! I think I'm leaning towards Tres Ponts now!

Rodellar is indeed awesome, however I spent 2.5 weeks there in May with a similar goal so have used up a lot of the obvious targets!

jwi

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#3 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 03:15:59 pm
Good choice.

Terradets is fantastic, and very good for onsighting if you want to onsight 7c-8a, but there are only two-three 7b+s there, and only 1.5 of them are easy to onsight.

Santa Linya is not so interesting if you don't climb hard 8s or 9s

Tres Ponts have lots of good 7b/7b+/7c s and almost all are eminently onsightable, and a handful of them are also very easy for the grade given in the Lleida guidebook which always helps. My favourite 7b+ is Instint Salvatge.


csl

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#4 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 04:56:58 pm
Cheers will look into it a little further.

abarro81

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#5 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 09:14:12 pm
Agree with most of what's been said above. For tres ponts theres a refugio you can stay at in organya - turn first left up hill when entering village from south, look for big 'civic centre' building, that's it. weird opening time for reception.. Lots of good stuff all grades you're looking at. The 7a on the left going up to a nice looking flake line has a gnarly start, not good warm up!

Santa L has a few things 7b and 7b+ but not loads. The 7b in the back is good. The 7b+ on the right (first bit of asaltin bankis) is quite onsightable. The 7b+s centre left on grey/black wall are tough to onsight. At that grade range prob ponts and terradets are better but SL might be worth a look for a day.

Collegats worth at least a day at the crag over the river that you do a Tyrolean to.

Terradets Regina sector might be worth a look if dry?

Wood FT

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#6 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 09:23:21 pm
Tres ponts all the way. jwi's suggestion instinct salvatage is a great one, big holds and good rests on an amazing prow. Warm up on the 7a+ left of El Segre.

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#7 Re: Lleida information?
September 22, 2014, 09:34:33 pm
The little 7a with the tufa (left of the 6s) is good warm-up too.
Is Instinct the one next to acrobatica? They're both great.

jwi

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#8 Re: Lleida information?
September 23, 2014, 08:35:11 am
Yeah acrobatica is just next to Instinct. Agree, both good.

Also the nameless 7b+ to the left of them with a 45m 7c extension is quite OK, and it isn't really any harder to climb to the 2nd anchor, so that will give OP a chance on a 7c onsight

Regina is very good. The 7b/+ Pim Pam Plus to the left is class, and there are three more routes at around 7b+ (have not done any of them) but most of the routes are around 8a/+
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 09:00:44 am by jwi »

csl

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#9 Re: Lleida information?
September 24, 2014, 11:01:44 am
Cheers again for all the info. Lleida climbs has just arrived so i'll have a read through that.

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#10 Re: Lleida information?
November 02, 2014, 10:15:25 am
Just back from Lleida,

Tres Ponts was a great suggestion, managed to onsight the Unnamed 7b+ - called Trencalcatells, and was cruising the top pitch too but unfortunately pulled a hold off. Also had a good go on Instinct Salvatge, but fell off on the techy wall bit near the top. Out of interest, does it ease off after the techy bit about 3 clips from the top? It seemed like it did, but i didnt bother going to the top after falling since someone elses draws were in it.

Also visited the crag with the Tyrolean at Collegats, so thanks for that suggestion, awesome crag!

Cheers for all the info from everyone!

jwi

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#11 Re: Lleida information?
November 03, 2014, 08:16:56 am
Great! First 7b+ onsight! Milestone! :dance1:

I seem to remember that Instinct Salvatge had a good rest after the technical moves on the head-wall, but I don't have the best memory in the world for routes (or anything else ...)

About pulling holds off the 7c-extension of Trencalcatells... I did it on someone else's draws. He warned me to bring "5-6 extra draws" (he had onsighted it). Turned out that he skipped a few bolts, but that he still had run out of quickdraws 3 bolts from the top, but then he just run it out to the anchor...

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#12 Re: Lleida information?
November 03, 2014, 08:51:45 am
Also had a good go on Instinct Salvatge, but fell off on the techy wall bit near the top. Out of interest, does it ease off after the techy bit about 3 clips from the top?

Yeah you move up left to a ledge you can heroically sit down on and then it's just some easy pulls over a bulge. You'd done all the fun, I fudged that slab as well.

That 7a+/7b on dinner plates is good isn't it?

csl

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#13 Re: Lleida information?
November 03, 2014, 10:22:16 am
Damn, i should have tried a bit harder then!

Guy, yeh that 7a+ thing was great fun, cheers for pointing that one out.

 

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