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[Northumberland] [Kyloe In] [Half Moon][7b] (Read 3984 times)

punkpunk

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Ru

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That looks very good.

Will Hunt

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Wow. Nice one!

punkpunk

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Video of Ben on FA here https://vimeo.com/m/105931138
« Last Edit: September 18, 2014, 07:40:23 am by punkpunk »

Will Hunt

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Crikey. Looks like you can ping off just about any move on that!

a dense loner

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Yep good looking problem that

Fiend

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Well fruity. Nicely set-up for the ground-up repeat now.

Mal_Meech

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Nice one Ben, moves looks great! (If eminently fluff-able...)

SA Chris

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You should know about fluffing Mal :)

Mal_Meech

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That I do... Expert in making things harder than they need to be...

Anth Gaskell

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Nice one, and nice choice in music on the video too - from Danny MacAskill's Inspired Bicycles video, if memory serves me right :)

dave

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What was the logic behind wearing a helmet on the top rope but not on the lead?

BenB

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Hi Folks, Ben here!

So yeah pretty happy with the line :) I saw this block the first time I visited Kyloe, many moons ago, and couldn't believe no one had sent it!

So yes it is a highball but the landing is great. Its much less rippy/pingy now the holds aren't so green. I wore a helmet whilst working out the sequence because it was exploratory climbing and wearing a helmet made me more likely to try 'exciting' moves. Even so, some of the falls were unexpected. Due to the angle of the roof before your established on the moon there was the chance to deck or hit the slab. Also when you are compressing the holds in the roof if your feet rip your head hits the roof. Once I had the sequence dialed I was happy to go without. You may, of course, do whatever makes you comfortable...

Yes a ground up send would be more than possible now, the second ascent was ground up.  :)

I'm cleaning of 2-3 other lines on this block so watch this space :)

I'll be there tomorrow (19th) if anyone wants to fire down

Happy Climbing!

tomtom

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Effort sir!

BenB

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Thanks :)

It was pretty wet in the woods today but...

Soaked but Sent !! High Tide - 6b FA - Kyloe in the Woods

The second new line on the approach buttress at Kyloe In, to the right of Half Moon. I cleaned it last night and this morning but it rained in the night and it was foggy and drizzly on the day so the holds weren't exactly in good condition! Never mind
I won't be surprised if it ends up as 6a+ once its seen some traffic and the holds dry off. There's plenty of them at the top!

Great Fun  :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKn6pEpHV_M&feature=youtu.be

 

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