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UKB power club week 239 8th Sep - 14th Sep (Read 9800 times)

kelvin

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Sadly, best thing for crack climbing (at least this is how I got halfway decent at them) is to just climb cracks, and lots of them. I was lucky enough to have a) a 3 month window when I wasn't working and b) the motivation of moving to Yorkshire and as I didn't want to be the stereotypical southerner who can't jam I got stuck in and have to say I found the process painful at times, but hugely rewarding!

If you're looking to consolidate at the HVS-ish grade on the odd Peak weekend away I think route choice is going to be paramount - make sure you play to your strengths (there are loads of good non-crack routes at that grade at pretty much every crag), or suck it up and start your crack climbing odyssey ripping yourself apart on Severes!

Cheers for this - much appreciated. I'm in the suck it up stage, sticking to VS and below when leading cracks and following Jordon up anything he can manage with a crack. It's odd at times heading to Millstone to just hop on someone's rope rather than lead but it's working slowly. Finger locks are pretty sorted now I've realised it's still all in the feet but hand jams are a lot hit and miss still.
Come the cold weather, I'll jump back on a few slabs to cheer myself up but until then... I'm following your lead  :)

Luke Owens

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Back from Font, had an awesome time and climbed every day. It was very hot and was in the high twenty's some days! Did ~53 problems up to f6C (Mainly in the f4 - f5+ range) Didn't want to try anything too hard and just enjoyed the climbing.

I helped out my partner and she managed plenty of great problems up to f4+ which was awesome! Our little one was psyched out of his mind camping and in the forest every day! We stayed at Les Pres, really nice and cheap campsite!

Still suffering from very tight forearms, especially after so many days on. I've asked this before but does anyone else get this? It doesn't seem to effect my bouldering but I get powered out on routes quickly.

It also seems to be effecting circulation too, when they're tight I get pins and needles and my hands/fingers go numb occasionally, this is when resting not climbing. Any ideas?

Double update as I missed the week before I left:

W/C - 01/09

M: Rest

T: Work Gym -
15 Wide Grip Pull Ups
20 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
10 Hanging Leg Raises
10 Side Shoulder Raises (10kg)
10 Shoulder Ups (5kg)
20 Dish Tucks

Then repeated the whole thing

W: Llanymynech with Ally - Did "Rapture of the Deep" (7a/+) 2nd go of the eve, this one took me a few sessions. A different style to what I'm used too, a lot of smeary feet and positions I'm not used to.

T: Rest

F: Packing/Midnight drive to Font.

S: Arrived at Midday and deployed epic camping set up.

S: Roche aux Sabots - Did "Le Mur a Michaud" (6B), flashed 2 f4's and tried and failed on  loads of other things.

W/C - 08/09

M: Petit Bois - 3x f4, f4+, f5, 2x f5+ - briefly tried some harder stuff

T: Hautes-Plaines/Isatis - Found a great Yellow Circuit for my partner, did 14 of them and also did - f3, 3x f4, 2x f5, f5+. Then went to Isatis on the way back and flashed L'Amoche Doigt (6B). Also tried La Coquille (6C+) but it felt nails.

W: Roche aux Sabots - Did 2 f4's then my partner wasn't feeling well so just went and chilled at the campsite.

T: Bas Cuvier - 2x f3, f3+, f4, 2x f4+, f5, Le Nez (6A), also had another million goes on Marie Rose in the sun, kept falling off the top like I did last year.

F: Bas Cuvier - 2x f4, 2x f4+, f5, 3x f5+. Partner did her hardest problem a f4+ which was awesome!

S: Cuvier Est (Bellvue) - f4, f5, had a million goes on Roxane (6B), guide said not to use the crack, so I tried avoiding it completely, kept falling off after the first move due to no footholds. Looks like the crack is only eliminated for hands, stupid rules!

Last problem of the trip turned out to be my hardest La Malotrou (6C), took ages to figure out and fell off the top out twice, crazy deadpoint move to a mono while catching a sidepull with the other hand. Great problem and a great end to the trip.

S: Traveling back

kelvin

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Luke - replied on the other channel re forearms.

EdGowSmith

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Missed last week, can't really remember what I did, but did 2/4 stretches and managed two fingerboard sessions.

7A:    34/50
7A+:  21/40
7B:    9/30
7B+:  6/20
7C or harder:    6/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Rest day.
Tues: CWP fingerboarding, and lots of front lever exercises, core hurts a lot afterwards!
Wed: Saddle Tor and Bonehill. Doing lots of the easier classics, too warm for anything hard really.
Thurs: Rest day.
Fri: Session at the Bunker, CWP fingerboarding, core and press-ups.
Sat: Anstey's Cove. Did a 7c.
Sun: Trying a new fingerboard program, slopers, pockets, crimps and monos.

Got a trip to Font booked at the end of October.  :punk: Gonna train hard leading up to it to get something hard done. Main focus will be finger strength, doing new fingerboard program 2/3 times a week, but also general strength.

fried

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S: Cuvier Est (Bellvue) - f4, f5, had a million goes on Roxane (6B), guide said not to use the crack, so I tried avoiding it completely, kept falling off after the first move due to no footholds. Looks like the crack is only eliminated for hands, stupid rules!


Just use the crack, you still get a 6A+ for it!

webbo

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Mon. Back to work, nothing.
Tue. Bike 1 hour intervals. Saw Rheumatologist he thinks I have a inflamed bursar under my foot. Treatment antiflamatories for 2 weeks if no better, he will inject it.
Wed. Board mirror session 41 problems.
Thu. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat Board repeat stuff wore different shoes felt ok. Bike 1 hr 51 mins 35.24 miles 18.90 mph.
Sun. Bike 4 hrs 32 mins 81.57 miles 17.62 mph.
Foot feeling better, a bit sore after wearing down toed shoes.

french erick

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various non climbing related bits. Letting my fat finger heal... thinking about starting a September lardathon ;)
Well done various people for getting there.

 

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