[Matt002]

I understand that when training strength on a hang board, that it is important to train differing grip positions as isometric strength gains are specific to grip type.
I usually only train in half crimp on my FB.  I've been thinking about training some different grip types, but want to keep the volume of hangs low and intensity high.
My question is that if you train in half crimp with 90 bend at second finger joint, are 2 and 3 finger hangs actually a different grip position or simply a way to increase the load in a large way as opposed to adding increments of weight to a half crimp hang.  Effectively the fingers are in a half crimp but just less fingers involved in the hang.
It would seem to me that a different grip would mean one where the fingers are in a different angle, such as drag or sloper or pinch. 
Thoughts?

[Moo]

Yes

[erm, sam]

It would seem to me that a different grip would mean one where the fingers are in a different angle, such as drag or sloper or pinch. 

Yes

[Matt002]

Thanks that's what I thought, I'll try adding some pinches and use the slopers instead of the pockets.

[shark]

Thanks that's what I thought, I'll try adding some pinches and use the slopers instead of the pockets.

You dont need to change holds. On the same edge you can full crimp, half crimp or drag it. 

Pinch training is a subject in its own right. A better way to train pinching is to attach weights to a block of wood or similar. Trouble is there are umpteen types of pinches and ways to engage them.
 

[Matt002]

I did wonder if a pinch counts as isometric, I may leave that for the time being and just add a drag on the same edge I do the half crimp on.  I had been looking at the pockets on my board and wondering if I should be doing some on them.  I'm happy that I can get the same effect with added weight and all fingers hangs the way you describe.

[JohnM]

How important is it to train different grip types?  I tried that Chris Webb Parsons fingerboard training plan a while back and that only had one grip type (half crimp).  I used to train pockets but now I just train front three and back three in the open, half crimped and full crimped positions.  I haven't found that I get shut down on pocket moves yet (especially mainly climbing in the UK).  Having said that I did get shut down on a shallow mono move the other day! 

[Krank]

i dont crimp anything, i trained for 6 months for a font trip exclusively using the 30 sloper on a BM and open handed on slopers on the board.
 On the trip my crimp was stronger than its ever been by a considerable margin. my crimp strength got higher with no grip specific training whatsoever.

[tomtom]

How important is it to train different grip types?  I tried that Chris Webb Parsons fingerboard training plan a while back and that only had one grip type (half crimp).  I used to train pockets but now I just train front three and back three in the open, half crimped and full crimped positions.  I haven't found that I get shut down on pocket moves yet (especially mainly climbing in the UK).  Having said that I did get shut down on a shallow mono move the other day!

Well it depends what you want to climb - assuming you are training to improve outdoor climbing rhather than your fingerboarding...

Different rock types favour different types of hold, but generally you use a mixture of all grip types - so to me it makes sense to train all!! Of course open hand puts less strain on the pulleys - so its what I always try and do.

As Krank says below OH stuff certainly seems to help with crimp strength....

Also depends upon your finger geomettry - the different lengths of fingers seems to make OH or crimping better/worse for different folks....

Personally the crimp is my grip of last resort (and max power if needed) and I try and OH all...

[Muenchener]

I haven't found that I get shut down on pocket moves yet (especially mainly climbing in the UK).  Having said that I did get shut down on a shallow mono move the other day!

My local area is the Frankenjura so I do feel a need to train pockets. I see it as being not just about muscular strength but also about confidence and technique. I've had two (mild) finger injuries in the last two years; both were not ring pulleys but somewhere in the region of the metacarpal ligaments, and both came from a loading pockets not straight down and not fully in control / feeling somewhat sketched out because omg monos!

So it's important for me to believe that I can hold two (and eventually one) finger pockets and to practice applying load to them in a smooth and controlled manner. Even though I suspect it might well make no difference to muscular strength whether you train two fingers in a pocket or an a wide edge.

[duncan]

I don't think there is strong evidence yet on how specific fingerboard training needs to be. Some people report good responses from only training open-handed, others from varying their grips.

As the great David Rushida puts it:

Well, it’s quite difficult to tell someone exactly what to do because people have different responses, [to] different types of training. But the most important thing is just to work hard, to be committed in what you are doing and to have that focus.