[Durbs]

Looking to replace my Katanas (have had 4 pairs, each with at least 1 re-sole), as they seem to wear out faster than average (I don't think I scuff *that* much) and are pretty pricey too.

I've only ever worn Evolve's (Pontus and er... another one. Both had baggy heels on me) and Katanas.
Anasazis made my foot cramp within about 5 seconds of putting them on, and Scarpas all seem a bit too aggressive for my toes.

There's nowhere local to me that stocks them, so was just wondering if anyone had used them (in particular coming from Katanas) or had thoughts on them generally.

[Russell_B]

5 years of Katanas, 2 years of Boreal spiders (with Evolv Gambit - old style, very similar looking to pinks but worked somehow - coming in around the same time, 4 years of pontas lace now on velcro versions and Typhoons. The typhoons are agressive and I can't wear them for a day cragging, if they were my only shoe I'd be looking again but alongside the pontas (baggy heel) they're my go to project shoe and a good one at that. I'd even go as far to say they've added a half grade (rubber seems to be good) perhaps a grade where any hooking is involved. The heel cuts my ankle but tape or a masochistic attitude sees that through.

[steveri]

Lace version seems to work for me. Can't compare usefully to any of your shoes though. More aggressive than Anasazi Velcro, more shoey than moccasyms. Stretched a tad out of the box, not noticeably since.

[Durbs]

Thanks

Interesting you both think they're aggressive, they don't look that more toe-down than Kat's...?

Russell - Nothing of particular note in terms of fit between the 2? I find the Katanas fit me great, especially once they've broken in a bit.


I shall await the inevitable hole to appear in my current pair and see what bargains I can find.

[Russell_B]

I have a broad foot hence the appeal of the Katanas that, as you find, fit like a slipper once broken in. The Typhoons are, in my experience, a world apart.  They are tight all round, aggressive (as noted) and have a tight foot box that I meant to add, gets a little overtight after having been on a while (I keep them on between goes but if, for example, I was walking between the Pebble and the Jerry's Traverse boulder at Stanage (context key) I would be taking them off).  The laces on mine disintegrated after a week but the shoe seems robust.  All this having been said, I love them and would buy again. (n.b. I got lucky and picked them up cheap as the last pair in store).

Also, if you don't mind an understated style, try the blue Evolv gambits for size, I found they worked really well for a reasonable level of all day bouldering/cragging when they were khaki coloured (not tried new version).

Also, also, I have a brand new size 8.5 left footed (from memory) Katana if you're interested.  Her partner was lost to sea on his maiden voyage at the Little Orme.

[Durbs]

I'm a 5.5 in Kat's - so probably a bit too roomy!

[Durbs]

I actually find them very different...

Not a "roomy" toe-box, but I can just about wiggle my big toe (but every other toe feels like a perfect fit). I get a bulge (oo-er) in the material on the top-outside of my foot which no amount of velcro-yanking will remove, but having said that, it holds my foot very tightly, so don't think it makes a difference.

They feel very precise, care needs to be taken pulling them on or the material on the heel rolls inwards and cuts like a b'stard.

First wall session impression though - pretty good.

[sherlock]

I bought a pair and liked them so much I went and got a second pair a week later.Not used Kats so can't comment.From out of the box I thought they broke in quickly but would agree about being slightly painful digging in the heel.Very good fit on my foot.Stretch seemed to be minimal.Loved the feel on smears.
All the above should be read with the caveat that on my feet ,they are less Typhoon and more Buffoon........