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training for yosemite - what can i do in 1 month? (Read 1111 times)

ghisino

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I'm finally going to Yosemite this october!  :bounce:

during the summer i've done what was possible in terms of training and now i have 1 month to make it work.

the objective: a reasonable compromise between overall stamina (moderate mileage, hauling) and single pitch sharpness (crux pitches in the french 6c-7c territory. My sixth sense says that "enduro corner" strenuous layback things are where i might suffer the most, followed by proper techy OW. I should be fine in splitter jams and cruxy-bouldery stuff).

what i have done in the last 2 months:
-tons of canyoning guiding, almost every day. Low intensity but tiring overall, lots of moving around and carrying 5 yr old kids under my arms.
-some climbing in the 1st month, especially short cave sessions (steep 30 move jug fests, two or three attempts at some 7c or 8a, no warmup)
-quite a lot of crack-machining. 2 to 3 sessions a week, mostly strenght oriented, 10mins to 1 hr. All crack sizes from tight fingers to hand-fist stack
-A little bit of real crack climbing in the last 20 days.
-quite a lot of very brief hangboard sessions. Almost daily or even twice a day, but really short, minimal warmup and then a few "comfortably hard" pullups or hangs.
-a tiny bit of low budget big muscle exercises (pullups, levers, push ups etc)
-i've lost some weight (my board shorts were quite tight, now they are comfortably loose)

my schedule before going away:
-10 days of crack climbing early september. Orco and or similar destinations.
-25 days of work and fontainebleau. Maybe one or two two-day rope climbing trips, not too far from paris.


my main doubts are:

-how much to rest right now. My fear is a post-canyoning-season burnout
-which blend of easy mileage Vs single pitch fitness Vs bouldering strenght, in which order
-how much to train vs rest during the last days. Will being fresh phisically help me handle jetlag and camp4 lines better?

 

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