[lukas_s]

hey.
a couple of weeks ago i hurt my knee and got the diagnosis of an torn menisci. So instead of spending the summer in a long climbling trip through europe, i had to get surgery.

So instead of getting fat i thought i might as well make the best out of it and train hard. As i have little experience with training without actuall climbing im looking for advise.
My current thought is to take two weeks off (done that already) to recover, and i wasn't feeling to good anyway after the surgery.
Then 4 Weeks of
- 4xFingerboard repeaters (is this to much? i have only used a fb as an addition to climbing up to now)
- Core Excersises (Front lever progresseion, leg raises, sit ups, puch ups, some ring workouts)
- Pull up training for one armer
- some gym work and antagonist training

Then switch the fingerboarding to assisted one arm max. hangs (chris webb parson style) but only 2x/week
and hopefully be able to do some climbing by then (toperoping/traversing to rebuild endurance) and some campussing depending how the knee develops.

So what do you think about that plan?
Should i try to do some foot on campusing/fingerboarding in the first 4 Weeks?
or any other advise what to best do with my training time until i can climb again is very welcome.

Thanks in advance
Lukas

[Nibile]

Broken meniscus here as well, still have to get surgery.
Anyway, I wouldn't stress too much about planning over a long period. The risk here is to get an overuse injury.
Don't think about weeks/cycles, go with your flow. Think long term. Do something every other day not too far from the lever you were at before surgery. Don't stress about getting too strong too soon, especially if you used to mostly climb.
Stay in good shape with some progress to reap results when the knee will be completely healed.
Adapt each session to how you feel, keep a good intensity and play it safe. Vary a lot.

Good luck!

[Dexter]

hey best of luck and hope the recovery goes well.
Do you have any problems that you can campus? I find this better than fingerboarding or campusboarding as it also works a variety of movements and muscles.

edit: I found it alslo helped me with motivation when I dislocated my ankle

[Gritter]

I've had a knee injury for a while now, what are the symptoms of a torn meniscus?

[lukas_s]

thanks for the good wishes.
I've already thought about campusing problems and its probably a good idea, but will have to wait a bit until im comfortable with falling/jumping off. At the moment i'm still on crutches and not aload to put weight on the foot.

I'll try and listen to my body and not overdue it. I have trained on the fingerboard before (2x/week), as an addition to climbing and have seen good results. Same goes for core/gym training that i used as an addition during wintertraining. I just have little experience doing all this without actually climbing.

@nibile good luck with your meniscus. I hope surgery goes well!

I've had a knee injury for a while now, what are the symptoms of a torn meniscus?

I had pain on the inner (medial) side of my knee, when twisting and bending the knee at the same time under load. And if I tried a dropknee or healhook it hurt a lot. my knee also made some klicking noises when fully extended or bent. The interesting thing is that i dont remember a specific trauma of anything, it just started hurting. But remember that every case is different and its probably best to check with a doctor.

[the_dom]

hey.
a couple of weeks ago i hurt my knee and got the diagnosis of an torn menisci. So instead of spending the summer in a long climbling trip through europe, i had to get surgery.

So instead of getting fat i thought i might as well make the best out of it and train hard. As i have little experience with training without actuall climbing im looking for advise.
My current thought is to take two weeks off (done that already) to recover, and i wasn't feeling to good anyway after the surgery.
Then 4 Weeks of
- 4xFingerboard repeaters (is this to much? i have only used a fb as an addition to climbing up to now)
- Core Excersises (Front lever progresseion, leg raises, sit ups, puch ups, some ring workouts)
- Pull up training for one armer
- some gym work and antagonist training

Then switch the fingerboarding to assisted one arm max. hangs (chris webb parson style) but only 2x/week
and hopefully be able to do some climbing by then (toperoping/traversing to rebuild endurance) and some campussing depending how the knee develops.

So what do you think about that plan?
Should i try to do some foot on campusing/fingerboarding in the first 4 Weeks?
or any other advise what to best do with my training time until i can climb again is very welcome.

Thanks in advance
Lukas

I hurt my knee last year and spent a couple of months campusing and fingerboarding while I rehab'd it.

I ended up with tons of little tweaky injuries (sore elbows, weird nail bed damage from campusing etc) and my psyche got so low that I stopped climbing for 8 months. Basically, be very careful.

[Fultonius]

I had a year off a few years back after a major knee op.

For quite a few months I just did some maintenance training (fingerboard repeaters, pull ups, core) without any aim to get stronger. I found that doing one session every 8 or 10 days was enough to keep the level steady - a surprisingly low training volume!

Later on, when I was getting generally more active, I did a little more focussed fingerboarding. When I got back to climbing I had gained a little finger strength and a bit of weight. When I got back to climbing and other sports, I dropped the weight and felt quite strong.

I started climbing again in December 2011 and by May 2012 I'd done my first Fr8a (soft, or Fr7c+ say some, who cares, I do, anyway, off topic).

So, don't fret . Like you said - use the time positively and, as Nibs said - don't get injured!