[Sasquatch]

I'm in for Resurrection Definitely on my to-try list !!!! 

I will definitely come and watch/ haul some pads ... I must admit that problem is inspiring and even has an OK landing.

Do prepare yourself for some heat ... http://weather.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-50_metric_e.html

Yeah, I'm a bit concerned about that, but it'll be what it is...  much more worried about trying the egg in the heat. That's gonna suck.

At least the humidity is low

[mindfull]

Went from:

To:


Got surgery to the main nerves from elbow to fingers. No fun climbing for a while 

[duncan]

STG - Bouldering or fingerboarding twice a week.  Stay uninjured. Loose 2kg.
MTG - E5 OS; 7b RP
LTG - Alpine multipitch sport / trad.

73.5kg 


M
T - Westway bouldering
W
T - Westway bouldering
F
S - Bristol climbing festival. Too hot to climb for much of the day but sauntered up old school Puke and sweated up something new skool in The New Quarry. A great event, thanks to Martin Crocker for providing the energy behind it, it was a bit like going to a large wedding, bumping into people you last met in the mid 1980s every 10 yards.
S - Vicarage cliff - easy tidal trad. Nearly too tidal. Cream Tea at Rectory Tea Rooms.  YYFY!

M - Baggy Point. More very easy trad.
T - Westway routes
W -
T -
F - Micro fingerboard session
S - Westway routes
S - fly to Munich

Physically, still in a post-Yosemite dip but starting to get keen again and a plan is slowly emerging. Family back in UK, so limited time on rock for a bit. Medium term goal is to climb E5 which is going to require 7a+ onsight fitness in my cautious old age. This needs a certain amount of finger strength which I've been neglecting over the last two years with the focus on big route fitness. The plan is to very cautiously ease into finger boarding and bouldering over the next 2-3 months whilst maintaining a little route fitness. Also need to return to pre Yosemite weight, lardathon here I come...

[csl]

August Goals

Stick to training plan
Outside x4
Onsight more E5
Sport - RP something reasonably hard - another session on Tennessee

Mon - Fairhead
Tue - Fairhead - half day - did a couple of routes at the prow, battered from Monday
Wed - rest
Thu - Bouldering Pyramid circa 60 problems from V3-V6. Got halfway and ran out of time.
Fri - AnCap - 3 x 4 of 12 move problem
Sat - rest
Sun - Portland
Coastguard North and Chossguard South. Flashed a 7a, Superfly Guy for the warm up - best 6b+ on the isle. Then dogged a 6c+ chossy arete.
Had two goes working the moves on Tennessee - so good! Some incredible moves, all but final rockover done, no big links tho. Felt 7c+ to me.
Then 1 hr sleep caught up on me, so i slept a bit and did a few 6a's.
 

[cheque]

High Tor is an intimidating place that can make you feel very wooden

Cheers Guy. I hadn't felt it on other routes there but it hit me on Debauchery- feels so easy to epic on it, the way you're having to pick your way across other routes that are all grades harder. It totally lived up to my expectations and we're both keen to go back and finish it off.

(I should know, I dropped Darius after obsessing about it for years, c'est la vie, I got to experience 97% of the climbing and ran sideaways across the crag on my way down)

I would definitely have shit myself if that had happened!

  What did you do Mindfull?

[mindfull]

Nerves in the forearm were smashed by the Police. I fainted but they tought I was resisting, so they gave me a "special treatment". Couldn't move my pinkie anymore an the rest of fingers were not much better. Luckily after the surgery, I regained full control again over the fingers, only the sleepy feeling is still there and will be there for at least some years I know from experience.
Now every day physio and hoping to do some easy circuits in Font at the beginning of September.

[cheque]

  I guess this was at some sort of protest?

[mindfull]

No, just fainted along the street, and was to suddenly to weak to stand on my feet. They must have thought I was drunk, but I wasn't. There was a fire in my appartment building and the smoke must have intoxicated me somewhat.

[EdGowSmith]

Missed last week. Can't really remember what I did but didn't do any new problems in the 7s and did 3/4 stretches.

7A:    34/50
7A+:  21/40
7B:    7/30
7B+:  6/20
7C or harder:    3/10

Stretches: 2/4

Mon: Some sport at Anstey's and then DWS at LQP.
Tues: Fingerboarding.
Wed: Session at the Bunker. Some power endurance, pull-ups and other stuff.
Thurs: Hopes Nose with Ellis. Tide was coming in quickly so too little time to do what I wanted to. Will be back soon!
Fri: Good session at the Bunker. Did some problems, systems boarding, fingerboarding, and also shoulder exercises.
Sat: Rest day in prep. for Hartland.
Sun: Hartland with Ellis, James and Hamish. Did Corridors of Power, 7C, really quickly and had a quick play on the End is Nigh, 8A, which should go. Also did a 7A.

[the_dom]

Taking some time off climbing / training / kettlebells to rehab my finger, and didn't have the best week, mainly due to a combination of work commitments and lack of surf.

Mon: 10km hilly trail run. Didn't actually feel too bad.

Tues: Bikram yoga. This broke me. Good lord.

Wed: Surf after work. Not great conditions, but so good to surf.

Thurs: Core session at home and treadmill intervals. Definitely felt the core session while running, which is a good thing.

Fri: Rest. Wanted to surf, but as I was leaving to head through to the surf spot I got the news of a non-fatal shark attack there. Luckily the victim is fine. Spent the evening drinking.

Sat: Rest. Out of town for a wedding. Wanted to surf, but well..

Sun: Core session at home and 40 min trail run.

Finger is feeling slightly better, thank all that is good and holy.

[french erick]

7A:    34/50
7A+:  21/40
7B:    7/30
7B+:  6/20
7C or harder:    3/10
Stretches: 2/4

I am always miffed by those figures... have you set a numbers of routes to do at each grade for the year, the month, the week? so far 34 7as... so what about stretches?

STG:Implementing Barrow's systems and it seems to work
MTG: tick 2 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

back to a normal routine of 3 sessions on homeboard. Need to be a bit careful since Frogatt cave route left my right elbow feeling a bit tweaky.
Thursday I finally completed one of my hybrid circuits (half nasty crimps/slopers, half hand to fiststack jamming) which is roughly 40 moves (how do you count reverse pony moves though )

[Luke Owens]

The mileage/on-sight mission has begun, enjoying it! Had to have a word with myself on Tuesday after failing to do mileage. Started going out picking pumpy/long routes now.
 
Monday: 25 mins Aerocap
 
Tuesday: LPT - Had a good onsight go on Mean Mother (7b), fell mid crux, fell on my 2nd go when I hadn't figured out the clipping position properly on the crux.

Wednesday: Rest
 
Thursday: Rest
 
Friday: Penmaen Head - 5a, 5c, 6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+
 
Saturday: Llanddulas - 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+
 
Sunday: Castle Inn/Penmaen Head - 4a, 4a, 5c, 5c, 6b+/6c (O/S), 6c (O/S), 6c

The easy routes were to put up a top rope for my girlfriend, the last 3 days I ended up doing most routes twice.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. weights and deadhanging, did a couple of repeaters.
Thu. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights and deahanging including 2 repeaters. Bike 1 hour 51 mins 36 miles.
Sun. Bike 56 miles windy as shit.
Foot not getting any better physio seems to be making it worse, got a review booked in for next week. Tried some K tape not sure how much it helped, but it felt slightly less painful.

[EdGowSmith]

I am always miffed by those figures... have you set a numbers of routes to do at each grade for the year, the month, the week? so far 34 7as... so what about stretches?

Sorry, only just saw this!
Yeah, they're my boulder grade aims for the year. Basically noticed that last year although I had done up to 7C I hadn't really got much mileage on lower 7s, so I'm trying to rectify that this year.