It’s hard to describe what has been going wrong for me this summer. I guess the simplest version is that I am struggling to line up appropriate sport climbing projects with pliant partners/ belayers.......Consequently I have lapsed into climbing “for fun”.....I can’t pretend that I am engaged in any kind of structured training or progress toward a goal.
Are there any shady bouldering venues ?
Quote from: shark on August 04, 2014, 08:32:44 amAre there any shady bouldering venues ?Good concept. I could work some problems and fence some hooky gear...
Quote from: tomtom on August 04, 2014, 12:02:21 pmQuote from: shark on August 04, 2014, 08:32:44 amAre there any shady bouldering venues ?Good concept. I could work some problems and fence some hooky gear...I decided not write "cool" bouldering venues to head off any smartarse comments..
Tomtom I watched your vid above and when you get a hold you move slightly on it, or pull up slightly, at least 3 times on every hold you get. Essentially your forearms are tiring themselves out for no reason. Obviously it's the way you climb but I'd think about moving as soon as you get the hold. We're not el mocho there's no need to be on the wall all day
It looked to me as though you'd basically done it, but didn't throw into the jug with enough conviction. You made the crux look easy.
Just to add a touch more faff - I fell going for jug loadzatimes until someone pointed out that those of a lower calibre can pinch the overlap underneath it as a intermediate, it doesn't actually look like a hold but I could settle on it and go again. Have a try.
Quote from: GuyVG on August 04, 2014, 02:48:11 pmJust to add a touch more faff - I fell going for jug loadzatimes until someone pointed out that those of a lower calibre can pinch the overlap underneath it as a intermediate, it doesn't actually look like a hold but I could settle on it and go again. Have a try.Thanks Guy - going for the jug isn't a problem most times - being of normal height I can reach it and still keep the heel in (before an ungraceful cut loose to get the RH up..). I've then looked to work my RF onto another edge to then allow me to bring the RH over gracefully - but I don't think that gets me any where really - easier just to thug it. The time in the video I had kitten power...
Quote from: a dense loner on August 04, 2014, 02:08:54 pmTomtom I watched your vid above and when you get a hold you move slightly on it, or pull up slightly, at least 3 times on every hold you get. Essentially your forearms are tiring themselves out for no reason. Obviously it's the way you climb but I'd think about moving as soon as you get the hold. We're not el mocho there's no need to be on the wall all day Thanks Dense - thats an interesting observation (its always good to have other people comment on my 'style' etc..)... I'd not really thought about that. One or two of those on weedkiller are slots of varying greasyness - so (certainly on the first one) I'm trying to get my hand into the right spot. But it probably reflects a lack of confidence on my part that a. my hand is in the right place and b. that its going to stay there! Good spot and something to work on.
Not feeling great about yesterday- Debauchery is a route I've wanted to do for ages and one I didn't expect to have such trouble on. Just have to face that I can't expect to take up where I left off on trad lime after not doing any hard climbing all year. Still psyched for Pembroke though.
Quote from: tomtom on August 04, 2014, 02:18:42 pmQuote from: a dense loner on August 04, 2014, 02:08:54 pmTomtom I watched your vid above and when you get a hold you move slightly on it, or pull up slightly, at least 3 times on every hold you get. Essentially your forearms are tiring themselves out for no reason. Obviously it's the way you climb but I'd think about moving as soon as you get the hold. We're not el mocho there's no need to be on the wall all day Thanks Dense - thats an interesting observation (its always good to have other people comment on my 'style' etc..)... I'd not really thought about that. One or two of those on weedkiller are slots of varying greasyness - so (certainly on the first one) I'm trying to get my hand into the right spot. But it probably reflects a lack of confidence on my part that a. my hand is in the right place and b. that its going to stay there! Good spot and something to work on.Checked footage of me on it and you are only a few seconds slower. I nearly always adjust on holds and it feels like it gives your forearms a bit of relief if anything. I suspect that if you are a fast twitcher in terms of muscle composition going quick is more efficient but for a slow twitching stamina plodder like me adjusting and shaking out and generally milking holds is more efficient.As a pure boulderer going quick is likely to be the better option for you. So, in short, what Dense said
Quote from: shark on August 04, 2014, 08:32:44 amQuote from: habrich on August 04, 2014, 07:23:52 amIt’s hard to describe what has been going wrong for me this summer. I guess the simplest version is that I am struggling to line up appropriate sport climbing projects with pliant partners/ belayers.......Consequently I have lapsed into climbing “for fun”.....I can’t pretend that I am engaged in any kind of structured training or progress toward a goal. Are there any shady bouldering venues ?Yes, lots. Humidity is high though ... it's not really bouldering season. And for a long list of reasons I am not very enthused by bouldering here. It is not the glorious pocketty crimpy steep limestone you chaps are blessed with, just massive piles of giant granite scree. Although there are a gazillion problems, they all seem to involve the same three moves: sit-start off crappy stupidly-low edge with absurdly-high heel-hook/ rock-up; slopey rail shuffle with heels matched with hands; undignified bellyflop mantle ... none of which resemble moves on the routes that interest me. And 99% of the problems are above bottomless holes from which no-one would hear you scream if you fell in. A great place for young DFBs with a panting horde of male spotters/ pad-carriers following them from problem to problem, much less suitable for the jonnie-no-mates elderly male.
Quote from: habrich on August 04, 2014, 07:23:52 amIt’s hard to describe what has been going wrong for me this summer. I guess the simplest version is that I am struggling to line up appropriate sport climbing projects with pliant partners/ belayers.......Consequently I have lapsed into climbing “for fun”.....I can’t pretend that I am engaged in any kind of structured training or progress toward a goal. Are there any shady bouldering venues ?
Quote from: AndyR on August 04, 2014, 05:57:58 pmQuote from: habrich on August 04, 2014, 05:40:45 pmQuote from: shark on August 04, 2014, 08:32:44 amQuote from: habrich on August 04, 2014, 07:23:52 amIt’s hard to describe what has been going wrong for me this summer. I guess the simplest version is that I am struggling to line up appropriate sport climbing projects with pliant partners/ belayers.......Consequently I have lapsed into climbing “for fun”.....I can’t pretend that I am engaged in any kind of structured training or progress toward a goal. Are there any shady bouldering venues ?Yes, lots. Humidity is high though ... it's not really bouldering season. And for a long list of reasons I am not very enthused by bouldering here. It is not the glorious pocketty crimpy steep limestone you chaps are blessed with, just massive piles of giant granite scree. Although there are a gazillion problems, they all seem to involve the same three moves: sit-start off crappy stupidly-low edge with absurdly-high heel-hook/ rock-up; slopey rail shuffle with heels matched with hands; undignified bellyflop mantle ... none of which resemble moves on the routes that interest me. And 99% of the problems are above bottomless holes from which no-one would hear you scream if you fell in. A great place for young DFBs with a panting horde of male spotters/ pad-carriers following them from problem to problem, much less suitable for the jonnie-no-mates elderly male.Resurrection...Fair point. When it's cooler let's have a session and I'll demonstrate that I can't do the first move.
Quote from: habrich on August 04, 2014, 05:40:45 pmQuote from: shark on August 04, 2014, 08:32:44 amQuote from: habrich on August 04, 2014, 07:23:52 amIt’s hard to describe what has been going wrong for me this summer. I guess the simplest version is that I am struggling to line up appropriate sport climbing projects with pliant partners/ belayers.......Consequently I have lapsed into climbing “for fun”.....I can’t pretend that I am engaged in any kind of structured training or progress toward a goal. Are there any shady bouldering venues ?Yes, lots. Humidity is high though ... it's not really bouldering season. And for a long list of reasons I am not very enthused by bouldering here. It is not the glorious pocketty crimpy steep limestone you chaps are blessed with, just massive piles of giant granite scree. Although there are a gazillion problems, they all seem to involve the same three moves: sit-start off crappy stupidly-low edge with absurdly-high heel-hook/ rock-up; slopey rail shuffle with heels matched with hands; undignified bellyflop mantle ... none of which resemble moves on the routes that interest me. And 99% of the problems are above bottomless holes from which no-one would hear you scream if you fell in. A great place for young DFBs with a panting horde of male spotters/ pad-carriers following them from problem to problem, much less suitable for the jonnie-no-mates elderly male.Resurrection...
99% of the problems are above bottomless holes from which no-one would hear you scream if you fell in. A great place for young DFBs with a panting horde of male spotters/ pad-carriers following them from problem to problem, much less suitable for the jonnie-no-mates elderly male.
