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UKB power club week 232 21st - 27th July (Read 7588 times)

shark

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11.8

M. Went up to Wavelength in the Pass for the first time with the aim of checking King of Drunks. Climbed on Utopia on way up and got sidetracked into trying the deadpoint on Utopia about 50 times unsuccessfully so knackered by time we got to Wavelength. Did the easier problems there including the Groove
T.  Back up late afternoon the next day and went to Grooves Boulder and did the excellent Boysens Groove and Groove Righthand. Then worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start
W. Rest day. In the afternoon went to check out Pumpsville at Bodafon on Pete Harrison’s recommendation. Not quite the easy to find roadside experience I was led to believe it was. Still have the scratches. Won’t be going back.
T. 27 degrees late afternoon in the Pass ! Back to Wavelength for another session on KOD. Did Wedgie Right and Left hand and the desperate but really good Pauls Bulge. No joy on the sitter for KOD so did the stand as a consolation prize.
F. Packed up and went to the Cromlech boulders for a final session. Went back on the Crimps problem even though it was full on in the sun. Ended up timing goes with the occasional cloud over the sun. Hit the top 3 times but got then it as my tips were starting to wear out. ;D Joined the boys on the Heel Hook traverse and flashed it. Took a diversion to have a look at Ogwen Valley for the first time  :-[. Ended up stuck in traffic around Manchester for 2 hours. >:(
S. Knackered  :yawn:
S. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights session

Had a great first North Wales bouldering trip. Did some superb problems though disappointed not to do KOD from sitting.  The boys learnt to play bridge and I failed to.
Need to move up a gear with the bouldering/training.   

TobyD

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S. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights session


you missed out "wandering around Broomhill with a metric ton of Sunday papers" or was that your doppleganger?
 ;)

shark

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S. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights session


you missed out "wandering around Broomhill with a metric ton of Sunday papers" or was that your doppleganger?
 ;)

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Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   Bike to & from work 25km
T: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering
W: Alpine approach training: 3 x 40 stories stairs with 8kg rucksack.
   Bike to & from work 30km
T: Evening cragging after work, Kochel. Untere Seewände: one of the worst crags I've ever been to. Polished, humid, mosquitos. Still better than plastic? At least we tried.
F:
S: Active rest: canoeing in Frankenjura with M jnr & some friends. Given sufficiently bad technique this is pretty good upper body endurance training.
S: Alpine approach training: 20 mins step-ups w/15kg rucksack

T_B

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M - fingerboard. Pathetically weak half crimped.
T -
W - bad back
T - bad back
F - Foundry lunch. 10 mins on, 4 off. Mainly around board, last rep inc 5 mins 1-4-7-5-3-1 etc feet on campus jugs. Nice slow burn.
S -
S - Highball Norwich. Did problems from Friday's comp 189 points. Tried to climb down as much as possible to save back.

Back did not appreciate yesterday  :'(

webbo

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Mon. Bike 35 mins cut the ride short due to it making lots of noise. I think it was due to the chain drying out.
Tue. Back to physio who reckons I have a stress fracture, given a rehab programme.
Wed. Dumbell workout and deadhanging.
Thu. Bike 1 hour intervals 20 secs on 40 secs on x 15
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Dumbells and deadhanging. Bike 46 miles 19mph foot sore
Sun. Bike 35 miles 19mph foot not as bad.
Been having treatment every day at the Physio, ice and compression. Told to keep riding, ice foot afterwards. Walk 2 or 3 miles and gentle calf raises plus wear compression socks for 30 to 60 mins first thing in a morning. No climbing though.
Foot still painful but feels slightly less so.
Both bike rides were about 1 mph faster than I had done on these circuits without killing myself. So took big chunks of time off past best efforts.   

tomtom

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M:
T: Tor
W:
Th:
Fr: Tor
Sa: Booze, Curry, Booze
Su: Hungover.


Luke Owens

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Does anyone else here get really tight forearms? I seem to have this a lot and it only really goes away if I have 2 - 3 days rest from climbing. If it gets too bad I have days like I did at Kilnsey last Wednesday. No amount of stretching seems to sort it out and it's actually pretty painful when bending my fingers back to stretch at times.

Monday: Devil's Gorge - Got back on Broccoli and Ice-Cream (7b). Bottom crux feels easier even in the damp, but I'm still miles off having the steep fitness for the top section.

Tuesday: 30 mins Antags and Stretching

Wednesday: Kilnsey for my Birthday! Incredible crag and my girlfriend and I had it too ourselves apart from one other team! Warmed up on New Mystique (6b+). It was one of them days where by forearms felt tight and I knew my forearms would cramp/tire very quickly.

Put the clips in on Direct Flight (7a+). Thought this would be a walk in the park after finding it easy on the dog. Then kept falling off the lower traverse by the 2nd bolt powering out with cramp as I'd thought would happen. When I finally got through this section on 4th RP I fell off powered out on the techy bit by the 4th bolt. I couldn't get anything back on the good rest just below.

Felt very demoralised on the way home, motivational talk from Ally sorted me out.

Thursday: 30 Mins Aerocap

Friday: 25 Mins Aerocap

Saturday: Rest day on the beach

Sunday: Gwynant Roadblock with the family - Repeated Roadkill (6B+) and Roadbloc (6C). Onsighted The Pillar (4+) and the highball Gwynant Arete (6A). Also did Seadog's Arete (6A+) really good problem, heelhook compression, more like 6B+ though.

Came close on the Roadkill Sitter (7A+) but skin gets sore quick on this block.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2014, 10:40:44 am by Luke Owens »

Schnell

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STG: a) Finish MSc thesis (end of August) and b) don't go insane in the process: also keep training and the occasional trad day out which would also help with b).
MTG: 7b onsight in Sicily in september.

Making an infrequent post to power club. My injuries have only cleared up enough recently to make it possible to do reasonable training sessions. I've decided to try to increase intensity but reduce duration/fatigue as much as possible to prevent reoccurence.,

M: short fingerboard session. Have started doing repeaters rather than max hangs in the hope that slightly lower intensity is easier on the still recovering tendons. Failed to complete set on BM crimps which I've easily done previously.
T: Short intense bouldering session and bit of campusing. Working on consistently sticking 1-3-5 on smallest rungs.
W
T: Bouldering and fingerboard, easily did repeaters on BM crimps. Unfortunately haven't got facility to add weight at the wall so I started mixing grips. Not sure is this good or not.
F
S/S: was all set on trad weekend and had even got the girlfriend to come along but the weather let us down. Indoor bouldering session both days in compensation.

cheque

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Onsighted The Pillar (4+)


Waddage.  ;) I find tight forearms are just a sign of needing to rest.

STG- Normal middle fingers.
2014 goals- 20 15 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering.
LTG- 8a sport.

M- Rest.

T- 3x 5 minutes switching hands between Beastmaker holds with feet on medicine ball on the floor. Got pumped each go.

W- Pleasley Vale. Did the extended Monk's Wall traverse (all the way from the start of Giant's staircase to the start of Yew Tree Wall if anyone's interested- about 40 metres with good rests but with a sustained difficult section at the end, so quite good Pembroke training) for the first time, then did it again straight after. Tried it again 4 times but couldn't link the whole thing. A bit of soloing afterwards.

T- Rubicon. Did the warm-up traverse. Pumped by the end of it.  :'( Had a real battle doing the upper traverse (in my defense it was really hot...) and could only do it once. I then couldn't repeat the warm-up traverse. Did a few easy up problems over someone else's mat.

F- Rest.

S- Rubicon again. Warm-up traverse x3, upper traverse x3. Worked the link between them but didn't do the full thing. Felt like a moderate little interlude on a walk through the dale, which is exactly how it should.

S- Wildcat. Did three routes in the blazing sun- would liked to have done more but climbing in a three. Holds felt like bars of soap, crappy rock also created a feeling of paranoia so found it quite hard. I find this sort of stuff great Pembroke training as it's such a confidence boost once you get on the quality rock down there!

Fingers doing well- volume on them while taped is proving to be good rehab.

Luke Owens

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Onsighted The Pillar (4+)


Waddage.  ;) I find tight forearms are just a sign of needing to rest.

I knew someone would be impressed! ;)

If it's a sign of needing to rest, I'd be resting for up to 3 days after every session?

Luke Owens

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Then worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start

I find this problem hard the opposite way around. There's a method for the sit start using a high right heelhook which I think works really well.

What method do you use for the top? I always find the throw out left for the distant sloper really on/off.

shark

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Then worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start

I find this problem hard the opposite way around. There's a method for the sit start using a high right heelhook which I think works really well.

What method do you use for the top? I always find the throw out left for the distant sloper really on/off.

Here's a poor quality video. I actually go too high and get the wrong hold and drop down to the one I should have got on this go. The key for me on the move is momentum - if you look my arse sags down before going for the hold.

Had a brief play with some "midget beta" a boulderette kindly showed me with a high right heel for the start but it seemed ridiculous.

http://youtu.be/DN-ZHtpHY_Q?list=UU05zpkTKrJZp1bQFBlkICpw

JackAus

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STG: Another v7 and more development.
MTG: DWS line.
LTG: V11


M:
T: Falls Creek. Small crag that I found last year. Only 2 problems so far, V5 and a V7. Did the V5 and it felt hard...
W: Lot 33. Worked a 6m highball V7. Still no more progress. Then put up an awesome V3.
T:
F:
S:
S:

Got the bike back on the road at the end of the week..... Finally!

the_dom

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Goals:
  • STG: Fix finger. Fix finger. Fix Finger. Don't be as fat.
  • MTG: Sustainable fitness - back at the 7B to 7C level again
  • LTG: Strong for travels next year.

Mon: Decent indoor session, but finger felt tender afterwards. Decided to give it 2 days off climbing.

Tues: Kettlebells and core. Realised that they contribute to tender finger.

Wed: Run - 9 kms, very quick for me. Felt it at the end.

Thurs: Climb - another decent indoor session, but still feeling the tender finger. Going to take a week off.

Fri: Run - 9 kms. In the rain. Sums up my mood really.

Sat: Short surf.

Sun: Hangover. Long surf in good waves.

Stupid finger. Taking a week off climbing and kettlebells. Going to stick to core and running (and praying to the gods of A3 pulleys).

Muenchener

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Kettlebells and core. Realised that they contribute to tender finger.

+1

I've found with pulley injuries that anything that presses directly on the pulley is just as bad as trying to pull on small holds. Pull-up bars were bad. Campusing on flat rungs was even worse.

the_dom

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Kettlebells and core. Realised that they contribute to tender finger.

+1

I've found with pulley injuries that anything that presses directly on the pulley is just as bad as trying to pull on small holds. Pull-up bars were bad. Campusing on flat rungs was even worse.

It seems so logical, and yet it's taken me so long to work it out.

french erick

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I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that. (although I'm on hols so donb't bike at all the now).

STG:Implementing Barrow's systems and it seems to work
MTG: tick 2 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

It's been a mental July with hardly any training but some good climbing.

Got a 7b 2nd go at my local crag
Got done to the Peak and due to soaring heat decided to tick classics at around E2 and not try above (I've never had to stop climbing in the middle of the day in the UK before). Visited Millstone and Froggatt for the 1st time: it was ace. I loved Piccadilly Circus and Regent street which I found straightforward and truly superb. At the same grade yet another planet of effort was Cave route. Fell the first time round. Pulled the ropes and after a 5 minutes rest went back up for the almighty tussle. Got it done but had to dig deep and my R arm is looking a mess now.
Should be able to get back to routine as of tonight.
Training as made me better without the shadow of a doubt, but more importantly it's made me more confident in my ability.

Three Nine

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Then worked King of Drunks. Could do the top but not the sit start

I find this problem hard the opposite way around. There's a method for the sit start using a high right heelhook which I think works really well.

What method do you use for the top? I always find the throw out left for the distant sloper really on/off.

Here's a poor quality video. I actually go too high and get the wrong hold and drop down to the one I should have got on this go. The key for me on the move is momentum - if you look my arse sags down before going for the hold.

Had a brief play with some "midget beta" a boulderette kindly showed me with a high right heel for the start but it seemed ridiculous.

http://youtu.be/DN-ZHtpHY_Q?list=UU05zpkTKrJZp1bQFBlkICpw


God you're a fat cunt. Also, the heel beta probably didn't work cos you suck really badly at heels.

shark

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God you're a fat cunt. Also, the heel beta probably didn't work cos you suck really badly at heels.

True but I don't need to be light at the moment.

Also it is toehooks I suck badly on, not heels. If anything heelhooking is a strong point. And my toe hooking is improving trying Ben's Roof. Tomtom will confirm..

tomtom

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God you're a fat cunt. Also, the heel beta probably didn't work cos you suck really badly at heels.

True but I don't need to be light at the moment.

Also it is toehooks I suck badly on, not heels. If anything heelhooking is a strong point. And my toe hooking is improving trying Ben's Roof. Tomtom will confirm..

I'll confirm anything Shark - as long as you don't make me try on your trousers again ;)

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July Goals

Stay psyched while rock starved
Go to Fairhead in reasonable shape and hopefully climb some cool stuff - rain held us back a bit but got some good mid range climbing in when it was dry.
Get structured with my training - got a training plan which starts this week.

Mon - Mile End - lots of bouldering, nothing too hard. Then over halfway round the 7b+ circuit onsight.
Tue- fri - rest, fingers on right hand felt a little creaky and my trianing plan looks like a bit intense so had a week off.
Sat - arrive in a rainy ireland, drove to the mournes and did 2 E2's at lower cove, wanted to do 5th ape, but it was wet unfortunately.
Sun - fairhead - met Dave Flanagan who was kindly going to lend an ab rope, it rained all day! Headed to the potato cave and messed around, managed the first half of the traverse + some obvious up problems. Cleared up enough to climb a damp VS in the evening.
Mon - Equinox, Mizen star, blind pew and burn up.

Good rest week, and managed to have a big day yesterday to make up for the wetness of saturday and sunday. Wasted now.

TobyD

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S. AM Took the easy option and went bouldering on the Wave with the boys whilst Poppy did Spider Club. Not too shoddy despite being tired. Evening. Extended fingerboard, and weights session


you missed out "wandering around Broomhill with a metric ton of Sunday papers" or was that your doppleganger?
 ;)

Stalker

Daily Mail reader.

tomtom

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shark, Always keep your daily mail hidden by cunningly placing it inside a copy of Razzle.

Dolly

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Think I might bow out of Power Club for a bit - I mean its summer and all that isn't it

 

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