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Shoulder op return to climbing (Read 2518 times)

Boredboy

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Shoulder op return to climbing
July 23, 2014, 09:08:42 pm
Hey UKB dudes, I was just wondering if anyone had experience of returning to bouldering and climbing after shoulder surgery? Specifically labrum repair and decompression. If so how was the rehab and how long before bouldering again?
Cheers in advance! 

Sloper

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#1 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 23, 2014, 09:22:01 pm
First of all no two shoulder injuries are the same, so what's right for someone else may be a disaster for you (I've had three shoulder problems in the last five years and there's been no common path viz a viz recovery).

But what I would say is this, rest, rest and more rest, then simple exercises and then when you do return think volume and low grades with no gastons, undercuts or other weird above the head moves.

Prof Angus Walace I think did an article on recovery from your sort of hatchet which may be on pub med or I may just be losing the plot.

petejh

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#2 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 23, 2014, 10:03:12 pm
Not exactly but related - last autumn a friend (who doesn't post on here) was diagnosed by two shoulder specialists (one at Liverpool Spire, the other at Oswestry) with a torn labrum (posterior). She was unable to climb over a period of about 6 months and normal daily stuff caused pain. She went to see a third specialist, Dr Funk, who did an ultrasound scan and told her the labrum was healthy and that it was degeneration and inflammation of her AC joint; he gave a steroid injection into the AC joint right away and within 6 weeks she was massively improved and back to climbing. The injection was part diagnostic and part to give a window to reduce inflammation and allow for strengthening prior to re-visiting the need for an op late in the year with a view to recovery through the winter,

Worth getting at least a second (if not a third!) opinion if you can.

Boredboy

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#3 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 24, 2014, 06:40:42 am
Thanks, I think it can be really difficult to know where the pain is coming from and an injection can help. That guy runs the shoulder doc website which seems very good.

duncan

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#4 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 24, 2014, 08:39:00 am
I had something similar done and it took me about 6 months to get back to climbing but longer before I was confident in it. I'd been having problems for four years before eventually submitting to surgery and was probably unduly cautious. Previously I'd had  therapeutic/diagnostic ACJ injection(s) which made no difference.

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 24, 2014, 10:25:37 am
Dr Funk

Does he share a surgery with Doc Doc Doc Doc Doctor Beat?

Boredboy

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#6 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 24, 2014, 01:13:28 pm
I had something similar done and it took me about 6 months to get back to climbing but longer before I was confident in it. I'd been having problems for four years before eventually submitting to surgery and was probably unduly cautious. Previously I'd had  therapeutic/diagnostic ACJ injection(s) which made no difference.

Yeah, this is similar time frame. I was hoping about 3 months to be honest but probably expecting to much. Been doing loads of 'pre-hab' in a hope it wil speed recovery!

thekettle

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#7 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 24, 2014, 08:54:43 pm
I've had torn labrums repaired (re-attached) in both shoulders, each time it was about 3 months off climbing.
Pre-hab was key for me too, and joining a gym so I could get a daily hard workout from day 2 (in a sling for the first 5 days). Work on gaining mobility asap so you can move onto weight-bearing and strengthening exercises. I personally think full rest is bad, active rest much better.
The other thing that worked well for me was entering a road bike event 4 months post-op so I had something shoulder-friendly to focus on.

Boredboy

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#8 Re: Shoulder op return to climbing
July 24, 2014, 09:54:10 pm
Thanks for the tips, I was wondering if cycling would be good to get a bit of weight down through the shoulder without stressing it to much. Was planning on about 12 weeks of and further 6-12 weeks before return to bouldering.

 

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