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UKB power club week 231 14th July to 20th July (Read 3808 times)

csl

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July Goals

Stay psyched while rock starved
Go to Fairhead in reasonable shape and hopefully climb some cool stuff
Get structured with my training - on my way.

Mon - Biscuit. Did a V7 on the comp wall in a few goes. Quite pleased.
Battered myself with Core/Pressups/Pullups after work, bad idea.
Tue - Westway - various routes up to 7b, lots of failure. Fitness disappearing! Doms from Monday
Wed - Doms from monday - could barely straighten left arm
Thu - Doms
Fri - Arm stil hurt.
Sat - Almost back to normal. Had a session at the biscuit factory. Did lots of moderate problems from V3-5
Sun - Endurance session, but skin hurt so didnt do much.

JackAus

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STG: Another V7 and more development.
MTG: DWS
LTG: V11

M:
T:
W: Lot 33. V0, V1, V3 I hadn't done before. Bailed off a V4, penultimate hold is a skin destroyer. Didn't want to commit to it. Worked a V5/6, sketchy landing under last big move. And nearly did a V6 that I've done all the moves to ages ago. Very off balance match on penultimate hold. Just couldn't hold it from the start.
T:
F:
S:
S: Flat Rock. Tried a new highball that I found the other day. Only had 1 pad with me and haven't cleaned the top half at all. Taller than alot of sport routes around here and I reckon that it could go on trad gear (couple of very small nut placements at about halfway mark).

Slightly overhanging and straight up the face. For reference, the pole brush is 2.4m high.....


Luke Owens

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Been on a non-climbing holiday In Greece so I'll do a double update.

After getting back on the project at Dinbren yesterday I'm really torn between actually doing more quick ticks/onsighting and carrying on sieging stuff. I'm on session number 6 now (albeit short sessions), I'm wondering what would be better for my climbing in the long run...
 
W/C 7th July
M: Repeaters

6 Sets of 6 Reps (2mins rest between sets):

All 6 sets open hand - 30mm edge - 6 x 7sec on/3sec rest

Couldn't mix it up with use of half crimp, grip kept failing? Possibly due to zero warm up.

T: Repeaters

6 Sets of 6 Reps (2mins rest between sets):

All 6 sets open hand - 30mm edge - 6 x 7sec on/3sec rest

Couldn't mix it up with use of half crimp still, grip kept failing but not as much as yesterday.

W: Flying to Greece

T: Holiday

F: Holiday

S: Holiday

S: Found some DWS

W/C 14th July
M: Went back and did some barefoot (ouch!)DWS above the Med. Really easy stuff F4 - F5+ but good fun. Got pumped on some jugs!

T: Holiday

W: Holiday

T: Flying back home

F: Rest

S: Gardening

S: Very short evening session at Dinbren back on the project. Really bad warm up on the proj, everything felt a bit weird due to not climbing properly for a couple of weeks.

Didn't keep warm after warming up, freezing in shorts. Had a really crap redpoint attempt in the dark.

T_B

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86.3Kg

M - lunch 10 mins on, 4 mins off low intensity
T - P.M. Tor. Powerband x 3, scraped across Weedkiller. Weak (3rd day on, so maybe tired).
W - lunch. 4 x 8-10 mins on, 4 - 7 mins off i.e. more rests, but getting really pumped.
T -
F - School lunch. Mainly 50 degree. Trying Schoolboy and Basic Ben.
S -
S - Works a.m. warm ups, a few whites then circuit board. Did 3 x continuous circuits of 7a. Pumped.

Lots of AeroCap this week. First time at Works for nearly 2 months, interesting benchmarking on circuit board. Basically couldn't do a full circuit of 7b or 8a, but half circuits felt easy and managed 3 complete circuits of the 7a, shaking out along the way. 1 more week of AeroCap focus, then shift to AeroPowin'


cheque

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M- Front levers. Well, "ice-cream makers".

T- Black Rocks. Gardening, filming and soloing. Got very scared doing the latter on a route that I hadn't yet cleaned.  ::)

W- Rest.

T- Rest.

F- Rest.

S- Rainpocalypse. Weekend trip to lakes was scaled back to day trip to Kilnsey, then day at Cheedale Cornice and finally to a couple of hours at Awesome Walls. Having done nothing but easy grit for a month I was nervous (but psyched) about the first three possibilities and the trip to AW proved that that was well-founded: got pumped on the 6a warm-up and didn't manage anything harder than 6a+ all afternoon. Not feeling weak, just rusty and shockingly unfit.

S- Notts Depot. Morning session brought on by panic after previous day's climbing. Five laps of the 6a jug circuit with 1 minute rests inbetween. Got pumped each time. I used to be able to lap this indefinitely and recover on it. :'( Worked the 6c circuit in sections then did a little bouldering- flashed a yellow so I've still got it in some sense....

Got a big about specificity this week- if you behave like a filmmaker you'll climb like one. Going up to the Lakes was meant to be the start of preparation for Pembroke next month but that didn't happen- with hindsight resting prior to the weekend was a waste. Going to have to work hard indoors and on Peak trad lime to be prepared for it in the next couple of weeks clearly.

tomtom

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M:

Tu: Tor time... nice crowd there, spent some time working Weedkiller - sussed (was shown!) all the moves, can do nearly all - just needs linking/time etc...

W:

Th:

Fr: Tor time two. No one there - Cave condensed, most of the rest of it drying from states of condensation.. warm, no wind, lots of midges. God I love Peak Lime :) Managed about 60-80 min there before I broke. In between attempts I would go and sit in the road as there were less midges there :D Had some fun playing around with the small insects on Saline Drip SS... All the numbers are there, just a big lunge for the first hold(s). It feels more natural for me to go up LH first - but this means lunging for a crimp rather than pocket...

Sa: Rain abated in time for friends BBQ. At FAR too much pullled pork and semi wiped out any post SA weight loss..

Su: Helsby. Hungover, tired, hot yawn... managed a work out of sorts, but it was a bit half arsed. Still managed to get out 3 times - which given the weather is good.

webbo

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Mon. Docs first thing re foot. He can tell me what it isn't but not what it is, however he agrees for referral to physio. Bike 60 miles foot hurt last 10 miles.
Tue. Physio who thinks it may be Mortons Neuopathy treatment ice it, stretch it and don't wear climbing shoes.
Wed. Weights and deadhanging, increased duration of hangs from 6 sec to 8 secs with same added weight.
Thu. bike 0ne hour intervals foot ok.
Fri.Weights and same deadhanging session as wednesday. Bike 2hrs 40 mins foot sore at the end.
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Weights and Deadhanging. Bike one hour intervals.
Foot seems a bit less sore as the week has gone on. Still looks swollen though.

Dolly

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M Pilates
T Hot shed sess
W Gym core and some weights
T Rubicon with Lagers who was beasting everything. Flashed the 7a traverse on the right, but got pumped.
F Rode bike to work.
S Kettlebells and core
S Thought about looking at Anston but then reasoned it was a) hot and b) may still be wet from all the rain from Saturday so had another hot shed session.


tomtom

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T Rubicon with Lagers who was beasting everything.

He's the original hustler...

lagerstarfish

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T Rubicon with Lagers who was beasting everything under 6A

tomtom

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T Rubicon with Lagers who was breaking everything under 6A

lagerstarfish

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I only broke rock on one problem

fried

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Monday - Bank holiday, was planning on doing some off-piste karma harvesting ;), but it had been raining for the previous 3 days, so I ended up at cul de chien, had already climbed on Sunday, so did the freshly painted yellow circuit, 54 probs, missed a couple somewhere, great fun.

Tuesday - nothing
Wed - indoors, hot continue doing a lot of long juggy routes as crimping's out.
Thu- Sat - Nothing
Sun - Repeat of Wednesday, continue ticking off some  remaining blue circuit probs.

Probably last post from me for a few weeks as I'll be in Turkey, might do a bit in Bafa golu if it isn't too hot. Have a good summer folks.

Sasquatch

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STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder
MTG - Local 8B boulder?
LTG - Mandala in November

M- Active recovery climbing 35min
T- FB MAW, Levers, Abs - New Personal Best on the max hangs  :dance1:
W- Active Recovery Climbing 45min
Th- Soccer Game
F- Local Comp, then outside for late night session - Did 6 problems cleaned by a few friends earlier in the week, and added a 7Cish low start to one of them.
S- First ever outdoor "boulderfest" in Alaska.  Pissed down rain all night, but a bunch of people showed up and went and climbed anyway in the rain.  Cleared off in the afternoon and did a few problems in the sun.  Started cleaning a new boulder that will have about 6-10 really good lines.  Excited to go back on a drier day :)
S- Long Mtn Bike - 4hr 16mi

Good week overall - dropped almost 2 lbs, climbed outside, and had a lot of fun. 

duncan

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Last four weeks have been spent eating, drinking, recovering and doing no exercise of any kind. Eventually various bits, shoulder especially, starting to ache with too much rest. Time to start again.

SRG: Ease back into climbing, regain enthusiasm, don't over do things.
MTG: E5 onsight, something classic and not dangerous. Get a bit better at Sport Climbing (7b RP)
LTG: Long rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland.

M - Westway. Pottering on easy routes. Feeble. Shoulder felt better for being used.
T
W
T - Westway. More routes. Not quite as feeble.
F
S
S - Boulder Ruckle with Mike Highbury and a couple of blind dates. Good to be back by the seaside. Wobbled up a couple of HVS pitches, not trusting myself, the rock, or my gear. Mike tried Fish Supper, but pulled a toaster-sized (Dulait 6 slice - he's from Islington) block off the final moves, taking a 20m fall back to the belay. He bashed his helmet, fortunately suffering nothing worse than a stiff neck, scrapes and bruises. A lucky man. I jibbered nervously up the top pitch of Sinbad and abseiled for the gear.

Weirdly, all that remained of the top wire and quickdraw was a free carabiner on the rope. It seems to have pulled, I felt a good tug on the rope and it wasn't left in the route, then unclipped from the lower carabiner on the quickdraw. I didn't see it fall but was more focused on the rocks and "black and bat-like shape ... hurtling over the roof" towards me. Unfortunately it's probably lost in the boulders beneath so we couldn't do a proper postmortem.

Not an ideal confidence-building return to UK trad.! I feel like doing some easy bolt-clipping but next weekend's plan combines the Bristol Climbing Festival followed by some North Devon adventures.

Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Visiting family in .uk

M:   Knee physio exercises, mobility, core
T: Climbing Station, Loughborough. Ended the session with a couple of easy laps on the 6b+ on the steep circuit wall, boding well for the Frankenjura autumn campaign
W: Alpine approach training: 40 mins step-ups w/12kg rucksack
T: Knee physio exercises, mobility, core
F:
S: Knee physio exercises, mobility, core
S: Had intended to try and get a couple of hours on something in the Peak on the way home, but in the end decided against spending my limited time wading through post-monsoon swamps in search of a speck of dry rock. So Works instead: short session up to & including a few successes on the "wasp" 6Bish circuit.

Totenkirchl in three weeks. The Highly Sophisticated Last Minute Plan:

1. Beast myself for two weeks
2. Take it easy for a week
3. Go

the_dom

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Finger still sore. Sod.

Mon: Bouldering indoors - stuck to open hand stuff and had a decent session

Tues: Long, hilly run on Table Mountain

Wed: Bouldering indoors - tried some hard stuff then did lots of 6's

Thurs: Kettlebells and core

Fri: Rest

Sat: Hangover. Long indoor session - did approx. 15 easy 6's then some harder stuff. Quite tired afterwards.

Sun: Another hangover. Rest.

Not a great week.

EdGowSmith

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7A:    33/50
7A+:  21/40
7B:    7/30
7B+:  6/20
7C or harder:    2/10

Stretches: 1/4 :( :(

Mon: Session at the Bunker, fingerboarding, pull-ups and press-ups then a bit of aerobic power work.
Tues: Hopes Nose in the afternoon, did two 7A+s (?), then fingerboarding in the evening - crimp strength.
Wed: Rest day.
Thurs: First day in north Wales. Sheep Pen, two 7As and a 7A+, then Caseg boulder, unfortunately very greasy so didn't really do anything new, then night session at Jerry's Roof, got Bus Stop and Johnny's Problem then worked Jerry's for a bit.
Fri: Very hot, Porth Ysgo in the afternoon but too greasy for anything hard, then Jerry's Roof again in the evening. Got close on Bus Stop Right-hand then tried Jerry's again.
Sat: Parisella's. 7A and 7A+ then worked some harder stuff but too hot and feeling too weak really.
Sun: Rest day.

Good trip to north Wales, despite it being incredibly hot. Got lots of projects to go back for when the conditions are better!
Not psyched at all for stretching this week, probably because flexibility hasn't been holding me back lately.

shark

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M.10 mins aerocap on systems board
T. Intended to go to Tor but decided to take advantage of cloudy sky and went to Rubicon instead. After warmups tried Kudos. Heard a loud crash and a load of thick branches came crashing down immediately behind me. Investigated the top of the crag and found a large tree had toppled over. The upper branches must have broken off as it fell over. A close shave for me and the walkers who had just ambled underneath. Stacked the wood out of the way to the right of Kudos Wall.
W.
T.
F. Drove to Wales with Ben and went to the Cromlech boulders. Tried the Edges problem but was full on in the sun. Bumped into Pete Harrison. Managed an unamed crimpy V5 in the shade. Drove to cottage we were staying in on the Great Orme. Had a great curry.
S. Drizzly and misty. Hung out at the cottage then went down to Split Infinity which was in good nick. Managed the reverse version of the Traverse which carries on around the prow which is I think called Split Pump Traverse on the UKC logbook.
S. Family day on beach

 

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