[benno]

Hi all, I've got a question to throw out to the collective wisdom of UKB. I tried searching, but I couldn't find anything that actually recommended specific brands/models, so here goes...

In May 2013, my girlfriend and I were out bouldering in Cornwall. The session lasted about 15 minutes before we had to call the ambulance as she'd jumped down about 4ft onto the pad and sprained her ankle. Sadly, she'd really done the works to it: rupturing most of the ligaments and badly tearing the rest; crush fractures to the calcaneus, talus and fibular. To top that off she'd overstretched/gapped (sorry for lack of knowledge of technical terms!) a nerve running down her shin so that she was temporarily unable to raise her foot due to paralysis of the shin muscles. All of this meant that she was unable to weight-bear for around three and a half months, and spent a very long time learning to walk normally again. Then she sprained it again on a rehabilitation jog in February this year, although thankfully nothing like as badly.

Happily, she's now back to bouldering with me at the Arch a few times a week, and is generally just being careful to avoid things that she can't do relatively statically and downclimb everything. She's been wearing this support:
http://www.boots.com/en/Neo-G-Airflow-Ankle-Support-Medium_1456177/

This was reportedly working well, as it wasn't uncomfortable to wear in rock shoe, and just provided mild support/reassurance. The last couple of sessions have seen a bit of a deterioration, though. The support has ripped over the lateral side of the talus so is now basically useless. Following this she's experienced more discomfort/pain after sessions and has had some slightly tweaky landings, although this may be partially attributable to trying harder stuff and taking more/harder falls onto the ankle.

So, finally, to the point! Can anyone here recommend a light ankle support that will last, and can be worn inside rock shoes? Preferably suitable for dainty lady ankles? She's got narrow feet and wears Anasazi LV's if that helps at all.

Many thanks,
Ben

[lagerstarfish]

I've used the Aircast A60 a lot to recover from a mashed ankle

great support for landings

I used it in comfortable fit Anasazi Velcros without problems

recommended to me by a physio mate

well worth the money - provides proper support

I have daintly ankles under a not very dainty body

[Nibile]

Luckily I never injured my ankles that badly, but I have both external ligaments broken and when I've strained my ankles I've taped them instead of using ankle supports. I found that you can tailor the tension far better.

[kelvin]

Like Nibs, I've found taping to be better for me. Mashed my right one playing football and it took a few years to get anything like normal. Taping it was much more of a faff but I could get it just how I needed it.

[jwi]

I have never fucked my ankles that bad 

Toproping gentle overhangs was my preferred rehab.

[bigtuboflard]

+1 for the Aircast a60


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[finbarrr]

i've tried a few over the years (skateboarding, ligament damage, small avulsion, proper broken ankle), and this suited me best:
http://www.ossurwebshop.co.uk/products/bioskin%252dR%252d-standard-ankle-skin%252dTM%252d-with-wrap-ankle-support.html

no really stiff splint like things, almost full movement, but you have to work for the movement; it does pull your ankle into the neutral position, so you don't accidentally roll it.
also good for keeping swelling down
worked fine in la sportiva testa rossa's

[benno]

Hi guys, thanks for all the responses! To those of you that were taping, how were you taping it? The main concern is rotation inwards (so toes pointing towards the other foot) and rolling over on it (sole of foot towards the other foot). Would a figure of 8 be appropriate for that?

Thanks again, I love this place.

[webbo]

Taping works best with strips of tape going down one side,under your foot,then up the other side then wrapping tape round the tops of the strips. You bend your foot to side to which ever side you want protected by angling it as you put on the strips.

[fatdoc]

Taping probs best. Or google 661 ankle supports.. Widely used in MTB slope style riding.. Not sure if they will fit inside rock boots though

[Nibile]

I used this kind of taping: one solid, thick round of tape at mid/lower shin height; then starting from that, tape down the side of your leg, over the ankle, under the arch and anchor to the round of tape on the other side. Repeat. Then another round at mid shin and another U shaped anchored to it. Then a final round to seal the U.
This should see you bouldering with some good protection.

[Nibile]

SHAVE YOUR LEG BEFORE!

[webbo]

I used this kind of taping: one solid, thick round of tape at mid/lower shin height; then starting from that, tape down the side of your leg, over the ankle, under the arch and anchor to the round of tape on the other side. Repeat. Then another round at mid shin and another U shaped anchored to it. Then a final round to seal the U.
This should see you bouldering with some good protection.

Thats what I suggested 2 posts higher and why shave your leg as you won't need to once remove the tape or are you a man or a mouse.

[Nibile]

I used this kind of taping: one solid, thick round of tape at mid/lower shin height; then starting from that, tape down the side of your leg, over the ankle, under the arch and anchor to the round of tape on the other side. Repeat. Then another round at mid shin and another U shaped anchored to it. Then a final round to seal the U.
This should see you bouldering with some good protection.

Thats what I suggested 2 posts higher and why shave your leg as you won't need to once remove the tape or are you a man or a mouse.

Yes I had read your post. I prefer to have a round at mid shin and then the U taping. I found it stays more firm.

[benno]

Thanks guys! Fortunately, I shall be able to maintain my current level of hairiness (i.e. not very), as this advice is all being passed straight on to an immaculately groomed lady climberess. Heading to the Arch for a miserable sweat-fest of a session this evening, so can try it out.

She tried taping last session, and arrived at a similar arrangement by just experimenting, so that's reassuring. Cheers webbo, sounds like a good tip about everting the ankle when taping it, she did comment on it loosening off a bit too much after a little while. Before that, though, it seemed to do a better job than the support she was wearing and was much more comfortable in her shoes. Result!

[steveri]

I used a slightly modified basket weave tape to keep running off road - there are vids online. You can get all the zinc oxide and cohesive bandage tapes online from physio suppliers. http://www.return2fitness.co.uk/ were good. Trick is to get the mobility you want balanced against the support, so you might need to experiment a bit. Even though it's over a year ago, she might still benefit from some rehab type stuff.

[DubDom]

A friend who does MMA and that sort of business showed me how to use a boxing wrap to support instead of taping. It's as good as taping but a lot less hassle to do every time.
They hold it all together  with one of these over the top of the wrap ( a long non stretchy wrap):-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Muay-Thai-Boxing-Kickboxing-Nationman-Ankle-Supports-Red-Black-Blue-/281026778271
but I find that a tight climbing shoe holds it in place well enough on its own.

might be worth trying...

[benno]

Thanks again for the responses guys. Steve, your mention of "basket weave" gave me something to google that I hadn't heard of before, and it turned up this helpful link, which does a much better job of explaining how to apply these things than most I've come across:
http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/sport-injuries/ankle-achilles-shin-pain/sprained-ankle/simple-ankle-support-taping

The stirrup taping on its own reportedly provides adequate support whilst not really affecting the fit of her shoes and it also means she's still got most of the range of movement, which is great.

[steveri]

Glad it was useful. Definitely keeping bashing away at the rehab I'd say, even if it means paying for some help. You'd really be looking to wean yourself off the taping and get back to full strength and confidence. I can sympathise - I had a bad run of sprains over about 18 months and it's incredibly frustrating. Still feel robbed of some of my descending confidence fell running. Good luck.