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List of Peak re-bolting work (Read 21517 times)

highrepute

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#50 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 08, 2014, 01:44:28 pm
would it be more acceptable if it just had a list of what needed doing?

AlistairB

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#51 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 08, 2014, 02:44:05 pm
I thought the spreadsheet was a good idea, in so much as re-quoting the list everytime on here is crap and bound to cause confusion.

That's what I thought too. I realise that the issue of who has permission to edit it needs to be resolved because otherwise someone will f**k it up like everything on the internet but apart from that it seems like a much better solution. I'm sure editing permissions could be sorted out easily enough one way or the other.

highrepute

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#52 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 08, 2014, 02:58:30 pm
I think Paul's point, that has been discussed elsewhere, it that to avoid liability we shouldn't keep a list of who bolted what.

If people are keen, and there aren't any objections, for a spreadsheet of just what needs doing then I'll just delete the offending columns and re-publish the speadsheet.

iain

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#53 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 16, 2014, 12:01:37 pm
Spreadsheet just to record what's been done/needs doing is a good idea imo.

Tin of belay has been repositioned above the break, (with an extra hole cause someone didn't think through the placement properly, ahem  :-[ ) and rusty bolts have a new glue in. Bolt leaving the groove doesn't yet as drill packed up before it could be finished. Old gear's still in place.

tomtom

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#54 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 16, 2014, 12:39:34 pm


If people are keen, and there aren't any objections, for a spreadsheet of just what needs doing then I'll just delete the offending columns and re-publish the speadsheet.

Do it in google docs - then share - others can then update/alter/edit etc... Much easier.

joel182

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#55 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 16, 2014, 12:51:56 pm
I thought the spreadsheet was a good idea, in so much as re-quoting the list everytime on here is crap and bound to cause confusion.

That's what I thought too. I realise that the issue of who has permission to edit it needs to be resolved because otherwise someone will f**k it up like everything on the internet but apart from that it seems like a much better solution. I'm sure editing permissions could be sorted out easily enough one way or the other.

GoogleDocs allows you to revert back to previous versions of documents, in a similar way that Wikipedia does. So if someone were to mess up the GoogleDocs Spreadsheet, all the old content would still be there.

tomtom

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#56 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 16, 2014, 12:59:36 pm
Yeah and it logs who edits it. You can also control who edits it. I've used google docs for lists/timetables etc.. For group activities of c.30 people and never had any problems or people pissing about on it etc...

highrepute

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#57 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 19, 2014, 09:24:02 am
Nemesis - new bolt added where the loose rusty one is - old bolt needs removing still.
I wanted to sort out the lower off but struggled to find suitable rock to do so I ended up adding a single lower off bolt, so now you can thread the rusted krab and bolt and not be reliant on a single rusted to fuck krab. I felt this was the best I could do, feel free to critique.

tomtom

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#58 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 19, 2014, 09:53:10 am
Here you are... if no-one else was going to do it heres a google spreadsheet. Anyone can edit it - but they need the link (which is not publically searchable etc..)

http://tinyurl.com/plzdphj  (edit - just shortened the URL so search engines won't track it - old link will still work etc..)

(I really know nothing about peak bolting work - so change the column names/etc.. or someone else do it who knows more than me!!)
« Last Edit: August 19, 2014, 10:13:35 am by tomtom »

iain

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#59 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 19, 2014, 10:55:06 am
Thanks tomtom  :2thumbsup: There might be 2 spreadsheets now!?!

tomtom

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#60 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 19, 2014, 11:20:30 am
No worries - thats great - I'd rather people did their own one than use mine (just put up as an example really..) and circulate around the relevant folk..
TT

highrepute

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#61 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 20, 2014, 02:30:10 pm
This new bolt at head height on Beginner's Wall was pointed out to me. Not sure why it's there, might be useful for keep the rope out the way. Anyone know anything about it?

Ru

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#62 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 20, 2014, 09:26:37 pm
This new bolt at head height on Beginner's Wall was pointed out to me. Not sure why it's there, might be useful for keep the rope out the way. Anyone know anything about it?

Don;t know who put it in or why, but I used it the other night so that I didn't have to take a swing into the bushes after stripping Lets get Fossilised.

kc

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#63 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 26, 2014, 09:59:06 am
That was placed by Zips and myself. It's just a thunder bolt so can be unscrewed if it offends you. It was placed cos the first bolt is quite high and protects a move Mark struggled on. The idea was to keep the rope out of the way so you don't fall into it.
By the way original 8a+ looks good but needs new gear.

Bonjoy

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#64 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 26, 2014, 10:17:48 am
The list so far is pretty much all north peak, the following southern things need re-equipping:
All of Bend Tor – Actually pretty good routes back in the day
Dovedale – Church buttress – have never checked the crag out
Beeston – Think 666 and Honorary Buoux need new bolts. KC will know details.
Ossams Chimney – Two old 7cs (one may need reclimbing since a breakage) of Zippy’s and a semi trad sport E5 on threads.

Ru

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#65 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 26, 2014, 03:32:26 pm
That was placed by Zips and myself. It's just a thunder bolt so can be unscrewed if it offends you. It was placed cos the first bolt is quite high and protects a move Mark struggled on. The idea was to keep the rope out of the way so you don't fall into it.
By the way original 8a+ looks good but needs new gear.

I'm not offended by it - and as I say, it was useful when lowering off. The Original LGP is quite good - it has quite a stern move on it.

abarro81

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#66 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 26, 2014, 03:39:22 pm
Where does it go? Was a bit unsure when I did the 7c+ version the other week. Do you get a lh crimp then rock up r and gaston a hold you use with leftvon the easier version? Is there any reason to finish up the choss or would it be the same finishing up the c+…?

kc

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#67 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 26, 2014, 06:34:59 pm
It goes directly above the left hand end of the ledge where Fossils wall spans left into undercuts.  LG Foss comes in from the right end of the ledge. Mark went rightwards into the choss because it made it more independent.  Yet again the R Fax topo is misleading. Also Malcs bigger slap is a direct finish to middle age spread incorrectly marked in the R Fax.

Lets get Fossilised claimed by JC in2009 may well have been climbed before because it is the line of least resistance and  no extra bolts were added. It could be what John Dunne did when claimbing to flash the 8a+.

Ru

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#68 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
August 26, 2014, 07:11:07 pm
The Original LGP climbs from the left end of the shelf. My beta:

LH Jug on LHS of shelf,
RH crimp in the small vertical crack on the LHS of shelf,
LH over onto horizontal crimp above the small crack,
RH gaston crimp below the pocket by the bolt,
Roll over LH into pocket.
Finish as per the 7c version.

It's not yet been climbed into LGFossilised.

It's widely assumed that JD went up the 7c/+ version on the flash.

kc

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#69 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
October 05, 2014, 10:16:57 pm
At the ridiculously dry and deserted Cornice today the 6c+ down the end "Further Adventures in Greendale" has a new (on route) top bolt and the 7b+ to the left "Too Pumpy for Grumpy" has had its ring pull hangers replaced with some chunky twelves.
Well done Keith.

 

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