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List of Peak re-bolting work (Read 21645 times)

SamT

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List of Peak re-bolting work
July 15, 2014, 10:03:44 am
The other topic has gone off on a bit of a tangent..
Can we try and keep this topic as a pure list of jobs that need doing/have been done and leave all the ethical conjecture to other threads.  :)



Raven tor
Remove and relocate a shockingly badly placed bolt on a route right of indecent.
There is a dodgy bolt or two around Mecca extension/Kaaba junction.
Top section of Tin of + move lower off above break.
Obscene\ toilet lower off needs replacing.
The replacement of all the bolts and lower off on Call of Nature is not of immediate concern but they are made of substandard materials so will need doing sooner or later.
The only worthwhile route right of here to do is Mortal Combat.
There are a few old bolts/studs to remove on Hot Flushing’s and Hooligan.

Rubicon
There is a lot of tiding up to do here and there is a case for placing/replacing discreet lower offs on some of the trad routes. Apparently they are quite good and having top roped them all I would consider the damage caused by cleaning the top outs unjustifiable.  Gardening the top outs would need to be done regularly with the added danger of falling debris onto a busy footpath.
New discreet Belay points for the following routes are worth considering.
Jezebel, jaws, Piranha, White Bait, Millers Tail
The collection of routes that finish up Dragon Flight currently rely on a single bolt.
Bolt on Jezebel
As for sport routes there is Too Old/Bold, Tribes,
Eugenics?
Belays for Too Old, Eugenics, Tribes, need to be done, Not sure what the caviar belay is like.
Last but not least, Bastard and the rubbish to the right of Rubicon roof.

Moat Buttress
Two Sheep to Leicester and Searching For the Yeti. That is if the latter is still possible.

Crunch Buttress
Mission impossible
Karma Killer belay
Agent Provocateur
Perfecto
Trainer Tamer

WCJ Cornice
The dole
Ape index
Yorkshire 8b mix of rubbish
The weakling (some)
Brachiation Dance
Free Monster (better lower off arrangement)
Superfly
Eclipsed
Glue machine
Sirius
Atilla the Hun

Dale cornice

There are 7 routes to do left of Taylor Made namely the power trip routes, but rarely come into condition.
Nemesis couple of bolts
Malcolm X
A few on roof warrior and cry of despair
Poppy Fields lose bolt in odd position
Armistice Day bolts all in wrong place
Big zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment. Clarion too?
42
Butterflies
Think that’s it here?? Too Pumpy For Grumpy has got 2 lumps of rust. Not sure which way to make it finish to avoid the blocky finish? Greendale has an unsatisfactory lower off position.

Nook

All sorts?? Life in the old log
Bit of Nookey
Storm
and old bolt removal from Lockless & Theora.

Nettle Buttress

Not too familiar with this but Stung is particully bad.

Two-Tier Buttress

Dodgy lower off on reboot
Stogumber Club
Why Me
Orange Sunshine
Start of Minos and bolt out left on Aberration
Buster
Lightweight
7 pounds

Long Wall

First bolt on Kiss hardy now out of reach. The joint lower offs above this are quite poor
Moldwarp wall
Balancing act/trick show have lost their belay.
Breathless.

Embankment

Don't know but there will be something here.
Stone The Loach and Arachonothera amongst others

Beginner’s wall
Let’s get Physical and a load of old bolts to chop. Lets Get Fossilized is done but not the direct
[/quote]

SamT

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#1 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 15, 2014, 10:15:28 am

Did the dragon flight belay and the bolt on Jezabel last night.

The top outs on there are nigh on impossible.  I had a right fight with brambles, bushes, spikey things just to down to ab off.   Its also a dodgy business in terms of trying not to knock loose rock down onto the path.

I now know where to ab off a little better though (having climbed into a tree that overhung the edge so I could spot where the top out was  :o ) , so will get eventually get round to the ones to the right.

Dolly

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#2 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 15, 2014, 10:46:11 am
Nice one Sam.
Is there a lower off for Jezebel as well then ?

SamT

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#3 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 15, 2014, 10:53:40 am
There is - its couple of manky hangers/krabs just below the top.

Its on the list!!

Dolly

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#4 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 15, 2014, 11:00:01 am
OK cheers

SEDur

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#5 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 17, 2014, 09:30:55 pm
The storm has been rebolted?

kc

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#6 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 18, 2014, 10:04:17 am
Really?
I was giving this a clean Sunday on the old bolts.
Not saying you are wrong but the Rockfax topo is completely wrong if you were using that as a reference. A friend has bolted a project just right of Santiano that passes the roof left of the large rock scar on Rock Umbrella near the peg & tat.

SEDur

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#7 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 18, 2014, 07:35:41 pm
No, I thought by the red writing on the list that it was either in progress or had been done

kc

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#8 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 18, 2014, 08:11:50 pm
Stuff in red is additions to the list. Crossed out is done.
Cry of Despair may need crossing out but that is not confirmed.

AlistairB

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#9 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 18, 2014, 08:16:33 pm
Cry of Despair has ben given the full glue-in treatment with the exception of the first bolt which is still in good nick and lacking non-hollow rock for a replacement. The old kit is still in place as people were redpointing when the glue went in. Will try and tidy this up next time I'm down although if someone fancies doing it for me that'd be welcome.

Roof Warrior is up next, hopefully in the next week.

Paul B

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#10 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 22, 2014, 07:48:59 pm
So, the PBF now has plenty of glue and fresh 18mm drill-bits, all to match the new found enthusiasm of those that went to the workshop.

 :2thumbsup:


kc

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#11 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 23, 2014, 05:22:53 pm
The Storm is now mostly clean with a new temp lower off.
It will be easy for someone to get on and get those lovely new resin bolts in.
I have "found" a good jug to yard to just above a new belay point so its now got an extra move and a logical finish. Get on it now if you want the bolts are bad but just hang in there!

highrepute

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#12 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 25, 2014, 01:59:33 pm
Guy VG and myself rebolted Stung on Nettle Buttress last night. This mean's Esmerunga can also be climbed on good bolts all the way now.

Lower-off still original as this looks fine. 5 new PBF resin bolts placed and the old hangers removed (apart from the first one if anyone fancies doing so).

Due to inexperience two of the bolts are a few degrees off vertical but still fine.

Wood FT

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#13 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 25, 2014, 07:28:39 pm
Guy VG and myself rebolted Stung on Nettle Buttress last night. This mean's Esmerunga can also be climbed on good bolts all the way now.

Lower-off still original as this looks fine. 5 new PBF resin bolts placed and the old hangers removed (apart from the first one if anyone fancies doing so).

Due to inexperience two of the bolts are a few degrees off vertical but still fine.

A friend has just been down and believes the glue hasn't set

PLEASE DON'T CLIMB STUNG FOR THE TIME BEING UNTIL IT CAN BE CHECKED

They've put a note on the climb advising of the above


Bonjoy

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#14 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 25, 2014, 10:27:37 pm
Glue sets pretty fast in this weather. It's always worth keeping a sample bit to check it has gone off properly (preferably the first proper squirt of a new nozzle after you've discarded the first very first bit). In this weather you'd expect the sample to be solid before you reach the deck.
New resin does have a greasy residue so it's possible they may have mistaken this for unsetness.

Wood FT

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#15 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 27, 2014, 07:59:46 pm
cheers, went back today to give them all a test - the resin does seem greasy, the test splodge is greasy too but solid as a rock. I dogged up on the bolts, tried to move them by torquing with a screwgate as kc had suggested and there wasn't any movement at all. I'm satisfied from my amateur position. I'll be climbing there on Tuesday.

Will the resin always do that or is something about the weather? We'd expected it to set and be completely dry in next to no time like you'd said.

highrepute

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#16 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 27, 2014, 10:34:18 pm
I'm glad this looks OK. Thanks for getting down to check Guy.

Doylo

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#17 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 27, 2014, 10:55:53 pm
As Bonjoy says it usually does feel tacky and sticky when it's just set.

Bonjoy

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#18 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 27, 2014, 11:09:04 pm
Most resins I've used leave this sort of residue regardless of setting conditions

Wood FT

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#19 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 28, 2014, 09:46:37 am
nice one

Wood FT

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#20 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 28, 2014, 09:50:04 am
I'm glad this looks OK. Thanks for getting down to check Guy.

thanks for the tutoring

mark20

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#21 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 29, 2014, 01:37:27 pm
I've rebolted Fishing Without a License 7c on the right hand side of the Embankment (easiest to approach from below rather than bash through the bushes along the base of the crag). The old bolts are still there and need removing, which I'll try and get sorted at the weekend

Wood FT

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#22 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 29, 2014, 01:49:57 pm
great stuff, never even heard of it, does it look any good?

danm

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#23 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 29, 2014, 02:15:09 pm
Great to see some new people getting stuck in! Don't forget you can borrow a drill and other stuff from the BMC via me if needed. I was back at Horseshit Quarry today doing some prep for some filming, checked all the bolts which had been put in on the workshop - totally bomber. Keep it up folks  :)

highrepute

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#24 Re: List of Peak re-bolting work
July 29, 2014, 02:26:27 pm
great stuff, never even heard of it, does it look any good?

It's on the wall to the right of embankment. Get's 2 stars in the most recent rockfax which I can only assume is based on one of the guidebook writers climbing the route. So must be worth 3 stars now it's not a deathtrap!

Well done Mark. Shall look forward to checking it out.

 

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