Poppy Fields lose bolts in odd position that get used by the routes either side by mistake/cos the there creating rope drag.
Armistice Day lower half bolts all in wrong place
Big zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment.
Butterflies
An update on the list.
Quote from: kc on August 05, 2014, 10:44:23 pmPoppy Fields lose bolts in odd position that get used by the routes either side by mistake/cos the there creating rope drag.A couple of UKBers did this last night and it was so close to the surrounding routes that I was rubbing shoulders with them most of the way!
QuoteArmistice Day lower half bolts all in wrong placeThey don't seem to bad to me, the one over the roof is a little high but I've seen it clipped by a very very short person. They don't seem to weave too much either?
QuoteBig zipper and bored bolts are a bit random and as it is so popular could really do with the full resin treatment. Nat is on this ATM. She's clipping one bolt above the obvious seam that's in a shoddy state (and fairly tricky to get a draw in if you're her height) and although there's a lot of bolts about, there's also a lot of climbing squeezed in?
To add to the list for re-gearing if anyone wants an obscure short route to do: All My Pegs in One Basket, an 8a "crack" in Tideswell dale climbed on fixed gear (pegs, stuck hex), now rotten. Actually looks quite good.
Replacing all the bolts with glue-ins on the popular routes from martial to bored would be a good move i think.
These top bolts (i think there are two near the seam) could be replaced with glue-ins.
Quote from: highrepute on August 06, 2014, 12:37:37 pmReplacing all the bolts with glue-ins on the popular routes from martial to bored would be a good move i think.Really?Personally I see no sense in replacing bolts that don't actually need it given the expense. It's a nice thought and in an ideal world perhaps, but for me, it's not a good use of (limited) resources.Bear in mind that the fund currently has bolts and glue but the recent order pretty much cleared it out.
For those of you that don't no or remember that the original bolt on Armistice day is the one very high up the grove by the big side pull
well no actually. I didn't think that sentence through properly. I was thinking in the long run, so not relevant to this discussion about what needs doing now.
I though Poppy Fields was an OK route but the bolts could do with sorting out. First half is alright, but the moves just to the right of Clarion could do with a bolt round the bulge so you aren't facing a nasty fall onto the slab. Then remove the next bolt (the one you can clip from the crimp on Clarion creating loads of rope drag - or maybe move it further left ?)
7a+ bag of.... has 2 independent moves on it
maybe we should set up a google document or similar so the list can be kept up to date more easily. Could also have extra fields for stuff like if the old kit has been taken out or not which might help co-ordinate efforts.
The beauty of glue in bolts and the new bar hangers is that the unsightly bail biner and tat can be dispensed with.