[JackAus]

STG: V7 Done! Currently unsure of next goal. Prob another V7.....
MTG: DWS
LTG: V11

M:
T:
W: Flat Rock. Quick arvo session. 5 repeats of an awesome V4/5 I put up the other week for video. Started raining as I left.
T: Lot 33/34. V4 dyno twice, V5 to warm up, many more attempts at a V6 dyno I put up early last year that I still can't repeat (must be fatter.) and worked a V7 (not the one I've been busting my arse on recently...).
F:
S:
S: Lot 33. Out of bed late, slight hangover, working in the arvo so warmed fingers up with gripmaster on the drive to the crag. Jumped on my project and quickly did from crux to top a couple of times. Another beta change for the crux (now the 3rd way I can do it... Others are quite inconsistent) made it much more doable. Took a break before trying from the start and then did it pretty easily. Finally, my first V7..... Then played around doing a V4 dyno and losing alot of skin in the process.... Chuffed.
1/9 local V7s done.... Close on 2 others.... Onto the next.

[csl]

July Goals

Stay psyched while rock starved
Go to Fairhead in reasonable shape and hopefully climb some cool stuff
Get structured with my training

Mon - Rest
Tue - Biscuit, did a few of the white V5-7 circuit, and a few more of the Red V3-5 circuit.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Biscuit - 3x 20:10's. Good volume.
Fri - Biscuit - a few new problems up to V6. Repeated lots of others around that grade.
Sat - Rest
Sun - Maybe endurance session later.

[tomtom]

Back after a Power Club absence... Due to work trips and holiday - not really been out or training much in the last 6 weeks...

M:
T: Logport wall - good 2 hour session at lunchtime..
W:
T: Harmers wood in the evening. A half session really - pottered in the main quarry and spotted Andy sending his project... made some progress on it too - but started eating into my left index finger so gave up as on...
F: Tor Time. I generally get on with Peak lime as well as Jayzee gets on with his sister in law... However.... I was due to meet Shark up there at 10am, but he was delayed, so I pottered on my own for 45-50 min... Got Saline drip - that I've not managed to repeat in about three years - a real fighty snatchy ascent (is there a different way to climb Peak lime?) and had a mini YYFY to myself. Shark turned up and I played around on Weedkiller, Bens roof and Rattle & Hump start.. all of which I've not tried before so thanks to Shark for showing me the beta. An excellent session (did I really just say that about Peak lime??)
Sa: Kittys crag with Andy.... knackered shoulders and arms from das Tor the day before - but had good fun working a new line and nearly getting 'Cheshire life'....

[shark]

Thanks JackAus

11.9-5

M. PM 10mins of AeroCap on sytems board. Eve. Catastrophic (with the emphasis on trophic) lack of restraint at Thyme Café leading following morning weigh in of 11.9
T.
W. AM CragX with Dave Thomas. Rob Smith at the crag when we got there reading a Yoga book. The levitation chapter looked much thumbed. Dave was doing linkups and Rob was looking strong on the Hulk. Second session on Jericho Road for me. I felt much stronger than last time (conditions may have been better though) and from the ground did the match a few times with a couple of goes attempting the next move snatching for, but fumbling, the pinch with the right hand. Experimented using a left heel but it felt too scary even with a spot. Lot of chat about training vs actual climbing vs resting.
T. PM 10mins of AeroCap on systems board
F. AM. Arrived later than planned due to workshit. Met Tomtom there - only us at the crag. OK temps. Tomtom claimed to have already done Saline Drip and also to have bigger shoulders than when we last climbed together. There was no evidence to support either claim. I felt stronger on the start of Bens but still didn't quite get the link to kneebar. Also had unsuccessful goes on Rattle and Hump, Saline Drip and start of Perverse but I managed to solo Hubble after tomtom left.
S. Rheinstor with sharklet. Hotter than July. Not been there since longer than I care, or can, remember. Good to have pads. Spent ages and got scared at the top of Rons Route trying to escape eventually opting for a partial downclimb. Tom did it too and we both got to work on Meredian. Worked out a sequence but bottled the top move a few times and decided to call it a day. While I was dangling my feet in the river Tom went and did it, the bugger. I then did it too. Obviously. Had an ice cream and checked out Nuda's.
S.

Was meant to be an easy week but ended up being a medium one. Managed to lose 4lbs after Monday's debacle. Work stress helped. In Llandudno from Friday for a week with the boys. Ordered a bouldering guide and kneepad. I have also been challenged by the incognito Sheffield Rumours to do Candy Kaned by end of the year so keen to check it out next week as I was too short of time on Friday.

Psyche has returned to normal with the added novelty that I've no desire to tie on..

[tomtom]

Tomtom claimed to have already done Saline Drip and also to have bigger shoulders than when we last climbed together. There was no evidence to support either claim.

Outrageous!

[kelvin]

but I managed to solo Hubble after tomtom left.

I think the bouldering's paying off Shark.

[kelvin]

Mon - Wall. Horsefly bites all over the left arm, so sacked it off after warming up. A good warm up tho.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Dinorwig. Onsighted another 6a, fifth in a row now. Also lead a balancy 5c, jibbered up a 6a I'd done before and a 5. Seconded a E2 6a, one fall on the crux but nailed it straight after. Pleased with that one. A cracking lead by the man from Munich.
Thu - Seconded a E1 5b that I couldn't reach the jug near the start. Took ages to work out some random move but got it clean. Seconded Psychotherapy in Vivian - nails crux that one. Beyond me but breezed the rest. Wandered over to Rainbow Slab... amazing place.
Fri - East Wall Girdle in Ogwen. Magic climb. First time the head's been properly clear since hitting the deck, I loved the traversing runouts. Really felt like fun being 5m from gear.
Sat - Millstone. Bouldered for a bit, then followed up some cracks on Embankment just to practice finger locks. realised it's all in the feet. Learnt a lot actually.
Sun - REST!

Top week. Good to be off work, meet up with a fellow UKBer and get some decent climbing done. Feel like I know more about what to expect in the E grades and happily, after the 6a onsight, my leading head is back to where it was in March. Yeah, it was good to get away from work and relax. Thanks Alan.

This week is mostly indoor bouldering and running, with a day trip to Swanage for some sport.

[fried]

Weekend Font camping trip blown out due to weather.

Mon-Tues - Nothing
Wed - Indoors, bicep ache after the first couple of easy warm up probs, which refuses to go leaves me doing a lot of easy jug swinging. I do spent a fair bit of time in the 'tunnel', should do this more frequently, 20m of heel-hooking heaven.
Thu-Sat - Nothing
Sun - Indoor, feeling good, picked off a couple more of the blue circuit, flashed 6B although it felt easier than the 6A problems. 2x20m tunnel routes.

14th July holiday tomorrow and the weather forecast looks good, although it's currently tipping it down....

[T_B]

86.5Kg 

M - Foundry lunch. 10 mins on, 4 mins off x 4 low intensity
T -
W - School lunch. 16 moves of 7c, x 6. 45 secs on, 90 secs off.
T - Foundry lunch. Campus board 20 moves feet on, 45 secs on, 90 secs off x 8. Plus 2 x 26 moves on board.
F - Foundry lunch. 10 mins on, 4 mins off x 4 high intensity (inc 4 x crossings of wave on final rep)
S -
S - Rubicon. Mileage inc flashing the 7A trav on the right. Tried low left start but couldn't do sloper match. Decent go from kneeling.

More AnCap this week but really struggle to get the difficulty level right. Reduced rest times to 2 x climbing time and felt more powered out on the campus session than pumped. Wasn't bothered about going outside on Sunday as really would have preferred to get on a rope, but enjoyed it in the end despite being rubbish on my long term proj. Left middle finger has responded to a couple of non crimpy weeks so I might do some fingerboard this week, albeit open handed.

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

UKB Blind Date

M:   Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering
T:
W: Wales with Kelvin. Getting acquainted / getting acclimatised: slate sport around the 6a/+ ish range. Plus an E2 6a, Just For Fun - "did" this last year, but without the proper direct start. Fixed that now. 6a tech grade but feels easier than "5c" classics like Gnat Attack or Pull My Daisy due to unpolished footholds. Eliminate but pleasant climbing.
T: Wales with Kelvin. Not sending day. Couple of warm-up routes then got on Pull My Daisy. No tick, but successfully took my first falls on trad gear this century, finding them untraumatic. yyfy. Top belaying by Kelvin.
F: Wales with Kelvin. Relaxed trad mileage day: Idwal East Wall Girdle. Very pleasant. Ogwen has lovely rock and is much more scenic than the Pass.
S: (visiting family)
S: (visiting family)

[EdGowSmith]

7A:    30/50
7A+:  17/40
7B:    6/30
7B+:  5/20
7C or harder:    2/10

Stretches: 2/4

Mon: Rest day.
Tues: Good session at the Bunker. Spent a while doing problems, sloper deadhangs, systems boarding, shoulder work and pull-ups.
Wed: DWS at London Bridge with Rory. A 7a+ and easier stuff.
Thurs: Session at the Bunker. Various things, and first time doing core in ages.
Fri: LAST DAY OF SCHOOL! DWS at Long Quarry Point with Rory. 7a+ onsight and a 7b+, really keen for more DWS now, loads of local projects to get stuck into, and will be good for endurance. 
Sat: Portland. Feeling quite weak after 4 days on so nothing hard. Good session though, 3 7As, 4 7A+s.
Sun: Rest day as exhausted. Slept all day!

Good week, lots of climbing. Time to do more 7Bs and harder.

[cheque]

After some thought this weekend I'm changing my goals a bit to reflect my continued finger injury recovery and the fact that I'm focussing so much on making a film at a single crag. Also chucking a LTG in there for the first time ever...

STG- Normal middle fingers.
2014 goals- 20 15 E-ponts, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering.
LTG- 8a sport.

M- Rest.

T- Rest. Final day of mid-year rest period. Feeling recharged.

W- Pullups and Pushups. Despite not doing any of this for three weeks (and not doing any hard climbing in this period either) they don't feel any more difficult than before. I'm taking this as a sign that I've successfully improved my base strength level. YYFY.

T- Black Rocks. Spent all day there digging out routes, filming and soloing.

F- Rest.

S- Black Rocks. Went with Severe-leading friend to find her a route to climb in my film. Led 6 routes up to Severe. Strange to find that routes I'm usd to soloing in 45 seconds need to be multipitched to protect a nervous second!

S- Quick visit to BR- filmed myself soloing Central Buttress from four different angles. Climbed some sort of gritstone monolith at Carsington Water later. 

Lakes next weekend. We'll see how well a month of messing about at Black Rocks has prepared me for multipitch extremes. 

[the_dom]

Crap week climbing wise, but I purposefully took time off to see if the finger would recover a bit. It seems to have, but it's definitely not 100% yet.

Mon: Hilly 12.5km run on the road.

Tues: Short afternoon surf in small waves, followed by a kettlebell and core workout.

Wed: Steep 10km trail run on Table Mountain.

Thurs: Kettlebell and core workout. Utterly beasted.

Fri: Treadmill intervals in the morning before work. Felt broken all day.

Sat: A really good surf in the morning, followed by a short boulder in the early afternoon. Not the greatest session - was tired from the surf and the conditions weren't optimal. Still, was good to get out.

b]Sun:[/b] Kettlebell and deadlift workout.

Overall, a solid week of activity, even if most of it wasn't directly related to climbing. I've realised how important surfing is for my mood so it was great to get in two surfs this week.

[Sasquatch]

STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder
MTG - Local 8B boulder?
LTG - Mandala in November

M- Nothing
T- FB MAW, Levers, Soccer Game
W-Active Recovery Climbing - 3 x10min
Th-FB MAW - Matched my PB which is great after coming back from a pulley injury in March, Levers, one arm pulls, Core
F-Active Recovery Climbing - 3 x10min
S-
S- FB MAW, Easy Campus intro, Levers 4x20sec one leg levers(psyched as these keep getting better) , Easy 45min Bike ride in evening

Straight up training week, and trying to get diet and sleep back under control so I can get my recovery maximized and still drop weight. 

Plan for this week is solid training all week and get outside this weekend.

[Dolly]

M Beastmaker at lunchtime. Piilates in the evening
T Furnace board at lunchtime
W Core and kettlebells
T Rubicon with Lagers in the evening. Did that 7a problem that isnt and a route ! - a 6b+ at the left hand side. Got pumped. Did loads more messing about and got battered.
F More core and kettlebells
S a 5k run but it was properly boiling and quite unpleasant
S The Cornice for the first time in a few years. Got very pumped on the warm up. Old Man River was the target but I got pumped too quickly having done no stamina/PE training. Will probably do it next time I think.

[Sasquatch]

Psyche has returned to normal with the added novelty that I've no desire to tie on..

Welcome to the darkside 

[Sasquatch]

Finally, my first V7..... Then played around doing a V4 dyno and losing alot of skin in the process.... Chuffed.

Well done!

[shark]

Also had unsuccessful goes on Rattle and Hump, Saline Drip and start of Perverse

Have you still not done Saline Drip?

I hadn't tried it since we went on it but had pretty much the same frustrating experience lacking a couple of inches of reach.

When are we going to the NIAD BTW ?

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 1hr intervals
Tue. Nothing right foot still sore.
Wed. Nothing. Foot sore.
Thu. Dumbbell workout and dead hanging,most hangs with 8lbs added. Foot better.
Fri. Nothing foot sore again.
Sat. Board easy mirror session foot felt ok. Bike 1 hr 1 min on2 mins off x10
Sun. Foot sore. Bike 1 hr 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 3 sets.
Foot not improving, plan to see GP tomorrow and get a physio referral.