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UKB power club week 229 30th June to 6th July (Read 4682 times)

fried

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Mon-Tue - Nothing/ working
Wed - Fiddle around with my schedule and get a afternoon out, coinciding with the only good weather of the week. Normally I get to work in 50mins ish on public transport, but I need the car, so I have to do a 2h tour of the Parisian peripherique at rush hour, after getting stuck behind a dust-cart for what seemed like forever. Finish at 11am get stuck in more traffic.

Eventually get to Rocher du Bouligny at about 12.30. I've only been here once before, it has plenty of good stuff, but is pretty uninspiring at the start being right next to the main road. Everything was scrittly and covered in cobwebs, and felt like what my bro-in-law refers to as 'dogging woods'. Sacked it off and went to Isatis, not wanting to spent my short afternoon cleaning up stuff.

Got to Isatis, stinking hot, everything feels hard, flash what isn't la statique, make hard work of some stuff I've done easily before. Go home, get stuck in more traffic, 5h in the car for a couple of hours climbing...I'd do it every week.

Thur - indoors, ridiculously hot and stuffy, have difficulty climbing anything, sweating just sitting on the mat.

Fri/ Sat - Nowt
Sun - Nice indoor session, overhanging jug hauling. Mutton curry for tea.

csl

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July Goals

Stay psyched while rock starved
Go to Fairhead in reasonable shape and hopefully climb some cool stuff
Get structured with my training

Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Biscuit - Some random bouldering, got distracted by the circuit board and earned myself some savage flash pump as penance. Session was a bit of a write off after that.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Biscuit - Endurance session on 20:10's, good intensity.
Sat- Rest
Sun- Castle - lots of routes, didnt do well on anything remotely hard, but endurance on really easy stuff is good at the mo. About 25 routes i think.

Took me a while to catch up with sleep from Glasto, due to various commitments the next time i'll get outside is the 26th of July when i go to fairhead, got to keep training in anticipation for lots of rock climbing for most of August tho!

kelvin

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Cheers fried

The 'usual' seven day week with a couple of late finishes including back to work in a minute or two.

Fri - Boulder room. Warm up quick and then get on the roof V4. After about ten attempts, I finally catch the next hold. Definitely a core strength issue. 45 minutes all in and it was back to work.

Sat - 50th birthday party. Haven't seen one girl since we were about 17... and still have a crush on her it seems  :slap: Purposefully set about finding out what she's up to these days and it turns out she's bought a one way ticket to Cyprus. I can but dream...

Sun - Routes in my tea break. Warm up the boulder room and for the second time in two weeks, get told my footwork is really neat by people who climb real nicely themselves. Chuffed. Top rope 4x4s on steep f5s as training for Swizzy. Then get on a new and crimpy 6a+ twice. Died a couple of metres from the top of the second go.

Feel like I'd be climbing well outside - so glad to be heading to North Wales on Wed for three days and the Peak for the day on Saturday if I can find someone to climb with. Mileage for Swizzy.

Also made the decision to climb full-time from Oct 15. Stopped trying to find reasons not to and saw that the reasons to sack off work and go for it are much greater. Seriously psyched.  Need to sort work, get a bigger van and get climbing harder but I'm in the perfect position to do so thankfully.

shark

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Thanks fried

11.7-8

M.
T. AM. Tor. Cool but rock a bit spoogy. Mick and Dave Bond there again on Mecca. Better on moves to kneebar on Ben's. Used Mick's beta at very start which whilst more powerful involved less foot moves so will stick with that. Had a few goes on R&H. First go was the best. Then worked last move on Powerband and not too shoddy. Finished off by doing crux of Perverse Reverse for first time. Good to see a few gains. Intended to train again in the evening. But got sidetracked by dinner and a bottle of wine.
W.
T. OK temps - sunny intervals. Decided heel hook method on Kudos just led to an impasse. Found using higher left foot on super polished foothold means I can get toe on. Had a few goes at Bigger Tail. Eve. Home strength session. Didn't leave me aching in days after this time.
F.
S. PM Rubicon again with the boys. Played on the traverses. Just us to start with then Steve Bancroft showed with family then Seb. Tommy managed to do Crimps and Pockets then repeated it barefoot to Ben's disgust. Tried 3 different methods on Kudos but no joy. Need more rest? Eve. Went to BBQ at Lagers  :beer2:
S. 

Worked hard at the bouldering for the last four weeks so intend to ease up this week. Fingers feel like they need a rest. Also need to start shifting weight. Will start running to help if I have to.

Tommy barefoot on Crimps and Pockets at Rubicon by ukbshark
« Last Edit: July 06, 2014, 11:55:44 pm by shark »

JackAus

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STG: V7
MTG: DWS
LTG: V11

Thought I climbed more this week but apparently only twice...

Wed: New seaside crag: White Whale. FA V1. Seas were too big. About the only new line I could climb here.
Sun: White Whale again. Repeated a V4 (twice) that I had put up a few weeks ago. One of my all time favourite problems. Also put up 5 new lines: V0, 3 x V1 & V2. Worked a few others, couple at about V5 (horrible landings, want spotters) Again seas were abit bigger than I would've liked. Would often be scrambling to pull pads out from the way of waves crashing onto the rocks.

Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Alpine endurance training

M:   
T: Bike to work 25km
W:
T: Bike to work 25km
F:
S: Family alpine hut weekend.Training effect from carrying rucksack with climbing gear up to the hut.
   While family were chilling at the hut I soloed Rampe, a 5 pitch UIAA III on the Benediktenwand. Pleasant climbing, in the course of which however I realised my soloing days are over.
S: More easy multipitch on the Benediktenwand with M jnr.

T_B

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85.9Kg

M - Foundry lunch. 5 x 10 mins on, 4 mins off. Really good sess, didn't really get pumped on Bleaustone Wall.
T -
W - Lunch, Foundry. 1 x Furnace, 1 x Bleaustone then 2 x Wave/Bleaustone. Once 3 crossings of Wave, final go two crossings. Pumped.
T - Paint in Black. Late. Couldn't work out 3rd move. Then had a look at Mutton Bustin' but didn't really know where it started. All a bit poor.
F - Lunch, Foundry. 1 x Furnace, 3 x Wave/Bleaustone. Twice inc 3 x wave crossings. Pumped, but feels like I'm getting more recovery.
S - 25 mile bike ride with my bro, who dropped me within about 5 mins of leaving home. Beasted  :'(
S

My middle left finger is still sore, so meant to just do AeroCap all week but ended up shooting out to Blackwell dale late on Thursday evening as I wanted to get on PiB when it was dry. I just couldn't move from the position of having right hand on knobbly first crimp you reach up and get and left hand on poor knobbly thing up left. Heel in and bit of a toe hook. Had a look at Mutton Bustin but it was getting dark and I couldn't really see where anything went as there didn't seem to be many obvious starting positions. Definitely feels like some fitness is coming with AeroCap sessions. More of the same this week.

EdGowSmith

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7A:    27/50
7A+:  12/40
7B:    7/30
7B+:  5/20
7C or harder:    2/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Nothing
Tues: Hopes Nose and Anstey's with Tom and Rory. Retroflashing stuff, nothing new.
Wed: Oxford uni trip.
Thurs: Oxford uni trip.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Good session at Hartland with Rory. Did 2 7As, 2 7Bs and then got close on a 7C but conditions weren't perfect. Something to go back for.
Sun: Session at the Bunker. Didn't feel great but trained a little, first time I've done sloper work in a while.

Been feeling ill these last two weeks, so been taking it easy. Hopefully I'll feel better this week and can start training properly again.

cheque

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M- Rest.

T- Rest.

W- Black Rocks. Gardening with some soloing and "bouldering" (did that highball Railway Slab problem 6 times for the camera without a mat- regard me) both as light relief and as part of filming.

T- Black Rocks. Other climbers were there!!! Scrubbed the Railway boulders and did many of the problems on them.

F- Rest.

S- Rest. Went bowling.

S- Rest. Up stupidly early for Tour De France spectating, which was loads of fun, way more than I expected. ;D

Consciously took a mid-year break from training this week (unless you count bowling, forcibly removing moss/ turf/ bracken/ litter or pinchgripping a heavy tripod) as I felt so run-down last week. Seems to have done me good.

Dolly

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M Pilates
T Quick blast on the Furnace Board. Concentrated on trying as hard as I could rather than doing mileage
W Beastmaker before breakfast, a few miles on the bike around town during the day. Gym for Core in the evening
T Felt like I was coming down with something the kids have had a for a few days so bailed out of Rubicon in the evening with Norton
F Kettlebells and some core in front of the telly
S Shed. Tried to focus just on trying hard as per Tuesday. Lagers BBQ but only for a short time
S Lots of standing for the Tour at the top of Jenkin Road - feel knackered today

Sasquatch

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STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder
MTG - Local 8B boulder?
LTG - Mandala in November

M- Nothing
T- FB MAW, Deadlifts, Levers
W-Outside to Archangel after work, 4-5mi hike, cleaned 7 new problems, climbed 6 of them, v3,v5,v6,v7,v5, and v8.
Th-Rest
F-Hike 8 miles
S-FB MAW, Levers
S- Climb routes at Wall

Busy week in some ways, mellow in others.  Body is feeling pretty good right now, so I'm excited to get strong again.


Luke Owens

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After flashing a couple of 6c's last week I want to start improving my flash/on-sight grade. I've never cared much for this type of climbing but I really want to get into it, 7a on-sight would be a good goal to aim for.

Monday: Work gym - Shoulder strength exercises and some core

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Llanddulas - Flashed "Zoidburg" (6c) as a stiff warm up then went for a retro-flash on "Searching" (6c+). Tried but never did this a couple of years ago, it's very hard for 6c+, fell on the crux worked the move and did it next go, 7a for sure.

Thursday: Upper Pen Trwyn - Warmed up Flash/On-sighting "Drip, Drip, Drip" (6c), my mate had climbed up to the crux but didn't manage it so he came down. Felt like an on-sight for me. Great technical route.

Quickly put the clips in on "Homo Sapien" (7a+) one of the Ormes 3 star classic routes. Quickly found the holds and did some of the moves. Came down and had a redpoint falling at the 2nd bolt. Felt really tired and had a really bad split tip so basically wrote it off...

Mate had a go and fell in the same place and couldn't commit to climbing to the top. Instead of clipstick faff decided to have another ago and completely unexpectedly cruised it. A really good experience, felt like I learnt a lot from just having another go. Usually my fitness only allows a couple of good goes on things!

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: 45 Minutes fingerboard Aerocap

the_dom

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Missed last week due to grumpiness at sore finger.

Goals: Climbing again. Sodding finger.

Week of 23 to 29 June

Mon: Short session at the wall and some repeaters. Finger sore, but was trying to actively rehab it by not doing anything that hurt it. Didn't really work.

Tues: Short core session at home followed by treadmill intervals.

Wed: Crap session at the wall. Did some campusing and repeaters at the end. Tired and sore finger. Resolve to rest finger until Rocklands.

Thurs: 9km run.

Fri: Rest, drive to Rocklands.

Sat: Rocklands. Repeated Minki (7B) and worked project. Finger not too bad.

Sun: Crappy day. Too warm. Ran a lap on Born Into Struggle (7B+) and called it. 9km run when I got home

Week of 30 June to 6 July

Mon: Short core session at home followed by treadmill intervals.

Tues: Hangboard - one arms on big holds

Wed: Longish run - 12.5kms.

Thurs: Hangboard - one arms on big holds and some drag repeaters on a 2cm edge. Don't really hurt finger.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Hangboard. Realise that anything other than a jug or a full drag aggravates finger. Sod. 9km run.

Sun: Kettlebell workout followed by treadmill intervals.

Feeling very unpsyched and realise that I've been a bit irresponsible with my finger. Have resolved to take the week off from anything that aggravates it.

Doylo

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After flashing a couple of 6c's last week I want to start improving my flash/on-sight grade. I've never cared much for this type of climbing but I really want to get into it, 7a on-sight would be a good goal to aim for.

Monday: Work gym - Shoulder strength exercises and some core

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Llanddulas - Flashed "Zoidburg" (6c) as a stiff warm up then went for a retro-flash on "Searching" (6c+). Tried but never did this a couple of years ago, it's very hard for 6c+, fell on the crux worked the move and did it next go, 7a for sure.

Thursday: Upper Pen Trwyn - Warmed up Flash/On-sighting "Drip, Drip, Drip" (6c), my mate had climbed up to the crux but didn't manage it so he came down. Felt like an on-sight for me. Great technical route.

Quickly put the clips in on "Homo Sapien" (7a+) one of the Ormes 3 star classic routes. Quickly found the holds and did some of the moves. Came down and had a redpoint falling at the 2nd bolt. Felt really tired and had a really bad split tip so basically wrote it off...

Mate had a go and fell in the same place and couldn't commit to climbing to the top. Instead of clipstick faff decided to have another ago and completely unexpectedly cruised it. A really good experience, felt like I learnt a lot from just having another go. Usually my fitness only allows a couple of good goes on things!

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: 45 Minutes fingerboard Aerocap

You should be putting more effort into on sighting at your stage.

webbo

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Foot still painfull so no climbing.
Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Dumbells and deadhanging abit of a struggling.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Dumbells and deadhanging better than Tuesday added 4lb to most hangs.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights and deadhanging added 8 lb to most hangs. Bike 1 hour. no foot pain.
Sun. Bike 2 hrs 30 mins foot ok.

 

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